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Thread: My 1st attempt at making .45 ACP swaged boolits from .40 S&W brass.

  1. #1
    Boolit Buddy
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    My 1st attempt at making .45 ACP swaged boolits from .40 S&W brass.

    Using a .243 FL sizing die only,
    And some push thru sizing pins.
    Not bonded yet ,but am working on that process . Have shot some out of my SR1911, but have not been able to recover an as of yet.
    They shoot fairly accurate at 20 yards. They come out weighing average 225 gr.

    I kinda deviated from all I have been reading and watching on Utube. I can make just a truncated cone but like the RNHP better.
    Any comments, suggestions or rips welcome. Just thought I would share my finished product with you folks. Click image for larger version. 

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    Thanks for looking. - CASTER
    In regards to shooting safety.Until you are ready to fire, keep your booger hook off the bang switch.

  2. #2
    Boolit Master slim1836's Avatar
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    Click image for larger version. 

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    I have done that too just for giggles.

    Slim
    JUST GOTTA LOVE THIS JOINT.

  3. #3
    Boolit Buddy
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    Quote Originally Posted by slim1836 View Post
    Click image for larger version. 

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    I have done that too just for giggles.

    Slim
    Have you shot many of yours? How do they shoot for ya?
    In regards to shooting safety.Until you are ready to fire, keep your booger hook off the bang switch.

  4. #4
    Boolit Grand Master GhostHawk's Avatar
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    I like to use a .430 lee sizing die, run empty .40sw brass through it. If they fall through they go into the load for the carbine bucket. If they take a good push on the handle I'll drop a .358 cast into them and swage them with a RCBS .270 die with the decapping pin removed. I've been playing with smaller .357 mag bullets but with a #1 buckshot beneath them to get them to stand up above the brass. Leaves an small cone shaped lead soft point look to them.

    Here is one loaded in a nickle .444marlin brass. Shot well with a light load of Red Dot below it.

    Click image for larger version. 

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  5. #5
    Boolit Buddy
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    Ghosthawk,
    Are you bonding, or just swaging and shooting them? I have been trying the bonding, but have no way of catching shot rounds to examine. Either way this tinkering is a great way to cure some of the cabin fever that is slowly but surely creeping in. - CASTER
    In regards to shooting safety.Until you are ready to fire, keep your booger hook off the bang switch.

  6. #6
    Boolit Master slim1836's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by CASTER OF LEAD View Post
    Have you shot many of yours? How do they shoot for ya?
    I have not loaded or shot them, just made them from the directions shown on a Youtube video as shown below:

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4gSm--Oj4q0
    JUST GOTTA LOVE THIS JOINT.

  7. #7
    Boolit Grand Master GhostHawk's Avatar
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    Not bonding.

    I actually swage mine with an old square punch that fits in the .270 die body to reach the base of the brass. Rap it about 12 times with a small hammer. Brass squeezes in locking the core in place. And the core extrudes up some as it is squeezed into the shoulder. Trick is to stop before it starts getting past the shoulder.

    Stop at the right time you get a nice truncated cone looking bullet. Not enough and they may not be locked to the brass. Too much and they look funky.

    The good news is total tools required, one old rcbs sizing die, one lee sizing kit for the caliber you want to shoot them in. A punch and a hammer and time.

    I don't have enough press to squeeze them to where they fit right for .45acp.

    And about 2/3rds of my once fired .40sw are frankly a bit loose to use. Which is why I started using the sizing die as a sorting tool.

    Then they get one more drip back through the die, just to make sure they will go down the bore.

    A little springback is expected.

    9mm's to .40sw also works but its tougher to find a bullet that will stick up enough to get that nice finished look. Hence my experiments with placing a lead shot under the core to raise it.

    I could in theory also adjust weight that way.

    I need to shoot more of these, had scope mount malfunctions the one time I did get them to the range.

    .380 to 9mm or .357 I have had very little luck with thus far. And while I like tinkering around with poor boy swaging I don't see myself investing in the kind of press, dies it takes to do it right.

    Although I could afford it, I just don't feel the need or desire.

    Still fun stuff to tinker with somedays. Specially when I stomp off after the wife and I have had words. Great way to blow off some steam.

  8. #8
    Boolit Buddy
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    Quote Originally Posted by GhostHawk View Post
    Not bonding.

    I actually swage mine with an old square punch that fits in the .270 die body to reach the base of the brass. Rap it about 12 times with a small hammer. Brass squeezes in locking the core in place. And the core extrudes up some as it is squeezed into the shoulder. Trick is to stop before it starts getting past the shoulder.

    Stop at the right time you get a nice truncated cone looking bullet. Not enough and they may not be locked to the brass. Too much and they look funky.

    The good news is total tools required, one old rcbs sizing die, one lee sizing kit for the caliber you want to shoot them in. A punch and a hammer and time.

    I don't have enough press to squeeze them to where they fit right for .45acp.

    And about 2/3rds of my once fired .40sw are frankly a bit loose to use. Which is why I started using the sizing die as a sorting tool.

    Then they get one more drip back through the die, just to make sure they will go down the bore.

    A little springback is expected.

    9mm's to .40sw also works but its tougher to find a bullet that will stick up enough to get that nice finished look. Hence my experiments with placing a lead shot under the core to raise it.

    I could in theory also adjust weight that way.

    I need to shoot more of these, had scope mount malfunctions the one time I did get them to the range.

    .380 to 9mm or .357 I have had very little luck with thus far. And while I like tinkering around with poor boy swaging I don't see myself investing in the kind of press, dies it takes to do it right.

    Although I could afford it, I just don't feel the need or desire.

    Still fun stuff to tinker with somedays. Specially when I stomp off after the wife and I have had words. Great way to blow off some steam.
    I know what you mean about the stomping off after having WORDS with the wife. I am using my RC supreme to do my swaging. Bolted through a dbl. Layer of 1/2" plywood and a dbl. 2x4 front plate. Factory handle works fine , but wouldnt wanna try swaging anything bigger with my set up. I intend to try and make some .358 for my Taurus to eat , but one step at a time. Thanks for the input.- CASTER
    In regards to shooting safety.Until you are ready to fire, keep your booger hook off the bang switch.

  9. #9
    Boolit Mold
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    Great Info guy's!

    When I get done with a project for a friend, I'm going to dig out my Old Corbin swage press.

    I have a 3 die set for 45 acp & a bunch of once fired 40 S&W brass.

    I'll get some pic as I go, should be sometime in mid January.

  10. #10
    Boolit Buddy
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    UPDATE: I finally got enough of a break in the cold weather to shoot my home swaged bullets.Click image for larger version. 

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    8 shot group @ 25 YARDS, Ruger SR1911 5" barrel rested on a bag . 227gr . Bullet over 5.5 gr. Unique. Shows some real promise. Good way to start a shooting year. Thanks for looking.- CASTER
    In regards to shooting safety.Until you are ready to fire, keep your booger hook off the bang switch.

  11. #11
    Boolit Buddy Valornor's Avatar
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    I'm seriously looking at doing this for my 45's. I usually just shoot a lot of cast bullets, but it would be nice to swage some of my own jacketed rounds without purchasing a whole new die set.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Valornor View Post
    I'm seriously looking at doing this for my 45's. I usually just shoot a lot of cast bullets, but it would be nice to swage some of my own jacketed rounds without purchasing a whole new die set.
    It is realitivily easy to do. I am currently bonding the cores. NOT TOO sure it would make a big difference, but then again I have not tried it in expansion tests. Basically I tried it just so I know I can have a dedicated swaged kit and the knowledge to do it. One never knows when we may have to do it that way. - CASTER
    In regards to shooting safety.Until you are ready to fire, keep your booger hook off the bang switch.

  13. #13
    Boolit Master Forrest r's Avatar
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    I don't like to bond the cores for the 45apc. But I'm also making hp's.
    [IMG][/IMG]

    I made those using a 40s&w brass and a cast 148gr hbwc for a core. I use a 44mag expander to expand the 40s&w brass then drop a 148gr hbwc in the expanded 40s&w case. Then I run the case/core up into a hornady blank die to put the xtp pleats on the nose of the bullet. Then I run the partially formed bullet up in a 243 fl die to form the bullet. Then a trip thru a lee push thru die to make sure of the final size,.451". A spin off of that bullet. Glow in the dark airsoft bb's in the nose of the hp. That bb drives straight back and the hp bullets explode when they hit something.
    [IMG][/IMG]

    The end result is a 225gr hp for the 45acp that frags/implodes. There's 2 trains of thought and most people want a hp or bullet to stay together and look pretty. Myself, I want a bullet to function at extremely high levels when being used for it's intended purpose. The bullets pictured above recovered from bundles of wet newsprint. The bullets left half dollar sized permanent holes in the wetpack and penetrated 7/12" to out the back of the 9" bundle. Shot offhand @50ft over a chronograph.
    [IMG][/IMG]

    I make wetpack bundles by taping bundles of newspaper together (9"/10"/12"/etc) and put them in a 48qt cooler. Then I fill the cooler with water and let it sit overnight. After 4 or 5 hours I add more water water. I take the cooler full of wetpack to the range and take bundles out as needed and set them up and staple targets to them and test bullets/loads. They say 12" of wetpack is equal to 18" of ballistics gel. I don't know about all that. But I have tested some factory ammo and it came pretty close to the 12" ='s 18" of gel.

    Years ago I did testing with bonding vs not bonding. I found you don't need to bond cores but you need to pay attention to the alloy you use for the cores. Along with getting a tight fit between the jacket and core if you want the bullets to stay intact. The core used for these 44mag 265gr hp's was a 210hbwc cast out of 8bhn alloy.
    [IMG][/IMG]

    It took awhile to get a hp design (small pleat's) that would stay intact. I wanted these for deer hunting and the target zone was 1200fps hit @ 75yds to 100yds.
    Testing was done in wetpack @ 25yds simulating the velocity of a hunting load/100yd hit.
    [IMG][/IMG]

    The hbwc's I cast have 2 grease grooves in them. Those same grease grooves are the 2 crimp grooves in the 44cal bullet pictured above.
    [IMG][/IMG]

    Anyway, get your core tight and you don't have to worry about bonding cores to the cases/jackets.

    And yes I do make 35cal thumpers out of 9mm & 380auto cases.
    [IMG][/IMG]

    Too much fun!!!

  14. #14
    Boolit Buddy Valornor's Avatar
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    Yeah I think I am sold. Love the ingenuity.

  15. #15
    Boolit Buddy
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    Quote Originally Posted by Forrest r View Post
    I don't like to bond the cores for the 45apc. But I'm also making hp's.
    [IMG][/IMG]

    I made those using a 40s&w brass and a cast 148gr hbwc for a core. I use a 44mag expander to expand the 40s&w brass then drop a 148gr hbwc in the expanded 40s&w case. Then I run the case/core up into a hornady blank die to put the xtp pleats on the nose of the bullet. Then I run the partially formed bullet up in a 243 fl die to form the bullet. Then a trip thru a lee push thru die to make sure of the final size,.451". A spin off of that bullet. Glow in the dark airsoft bb's in the nose of the hp. That bb drives straight back and the hp bullets explode when they hit something.
    [IMG][/IMG]

    The end result is a 225gr hp for the 45acp that frags/implodes. There's 2 trains of thought and most people want a hp or bullet to stay together and look pretty. Myself, I want a bullet to function at extremely high levels when being used for it's intended purpose. The bullets pictured above recovered from bundles of wet newsprint. The bullets left half dollar sized permanent holes in the wetpack and penetrated 7/12" to out the back of the 9" bundle. Shot offhand @50ft over a chronograph.
    [IMG][/IMG]

    I make wetpack bundles by taping bundles of newspaper together (9"/10"/12"/etc) and put them in a 48qt cooler. Then I fill the cooler with water and let it sit overnight. After 4 or 5 hours I add more water water. I take the cooler full of wetpack to the range and take bundles out as needed and set them up and staple targets to them and test bullets/loads. They say 12" of wetpack is equal to 18" of ballistics gel. I don't know about all that. But I have tested some factory ammo and it came pretty close to the 12" ='s 18" of gel.

    Years ago I did testing with bonding vs not bonding. I found you don't need to bond cores but you need to pay attention to the alloy you use for the cores. Along with getting a tight fit between the jacket and core if you want the bullets to stay intact. The core used for these 44mag 265gr hp's was a 210hbwc cast out of 8bhn alloy.
    [IMG][/IMG]

    It took awhile to get a hp design (small pleat's) that would stay intact. I wanted these for deer hunting and the target zone was 1200fps hit @ 75yds to 100yds.
    Testing was done in wetpack @ 25yds simulating the velocity of a hunting load/100yd hit.
    [IMG][/IMG]

    The hbwc's I cast have 2 grease grooves in them. Those same grease grooves are the 2 crimp grooves in the 44cal bullet pictured above.
    [IMG][/IMG]

    Anyway, get your core tight and you don't have to worry about bonding cores to the cases/jackets.

    And yes I do make 35cal thumpers out of 9mm & 380auto cases.
    [IMG][/IMG]

    Too much fun!!!
    Man those look great. I used nearly pure lead for my cores. Have used some SOWW didn't seem to make any kind of difference. That is as far as the end product , and ease of use in the process. I plan on trying the BB in the hollow point version when I make that attempt. Thanks for the advice and all the info. I will repost as my results come in. - CASTER
    In regards to shooting safety.Until you are ready to fire, keep your booger hook off the bang switch.

  16. #16
    Boolit Buddy
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    Click image for larger version. 

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    Getting these dialed in. Load: 227gr. Swaged over 5.5gr. BR-5. Shot at 20 yards resting the barrel on a shooting bag. The high left shot was the first one. I held my POA high and left because my last loads all shot low and right. (Same bullet , 5.5 gr. Of Unique) After seeing the 1st POI I returned the POA to center of bull and shot the remaining rounds. Powder change seemed to tighten the group and improve the POI. Thanks for looking- CASTER
    In regards to shooting safety.Until you are ready to fire, keep your booger hook off the bang switch.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check