Any Alternatives to gaschecks?

[bstone5]

Use gas checks on my plain base powder coated bullets. The gas check results in a very good seal at the base of the bullet and cleans the barrel with each shot. Use soda can material and .010 thick roof aluminum flashing to make the gas checks. I make the gas check makers using my lathe.

[Tyguy95]

Use gas checks on my plain base powder coated bullets. The gas check results in a very good seal at the base of the bullet and cleans the barrel with each shot. Use soda can material and .010 thick roof aluminum flashing to make the gas checks. I make the gas check makers using my lathe.

Would you be interested in marketing such device and if so what would your cost be

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[John Ross]

Buy NECO P-wads or make your own. http://www.neconos.com/item/NECO-P-WADS-69

Here's the device to make your own wads in a press: https://www.buffaloarms.com/reloadin...ed-wad-punches

I'm trying to get the machinist to make .501" dies for the .500. He needs 25 orders to do it @$75 per unit. See group buy discussion.

JR

[Tyguy95]

Buy NECO P-wads or make your own. http://www.neconos.com/item/NECO-P-WADS-69

Here's the device to make your own wads in a press: https://www.buffaloarms.com/reloadin...ed-wad-punches

I'm trying to get the machinist to make .501" dies for the .500. He needs 25 orders to do it @$75 per unit. See group buy discussion.

JR

At $5 per 100 I can buy 1000 gas checks and a lubesizer for cheaper than 1000 of them


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[John Ross]

At $5 per 100 I can buy 1000 gas checks and a lubesizer for cheaper than 1000 of them

Yes, but... A)They'll sell them for less than $5/100 in bulk, B) You can make your own with a punch for $5 a thousand, and C) Gas checks can't be used on Plain Base bullets, if you have molds for some of those. P-wads can.

The Fred Cornell press mounted wad cutter is a great tool for making PVC (or milk carton) base protectors in any caliber you shoot a lot, but he (and his successor) never made them in .500. I'm hoping to fix that.

JR

[georgerkahn]

Re "grease cookie" mentioned by Ballistics in Scotland, a tool I have and use with mostly good success is purveyed by Buffalo Arms (https://www.buffaloarms.com/lube-rib...der-luberibbon) which, as in its name, extrudes a ribbon of grease from which discs are cut from case itself -- I extrude grease on a small piece of plate glass which I turn over so grease strip is at bottom, raising said case to insert it. Then, all is left is inserting and crimping bullet.

[Motor]

Buy NECO P-wads or make your own. http://www.neconos.com/item/NECO-P-WADS-69

Here's the device to make your own wads in a press: https://www.buffaloarms.com/reloadin...ed-wad-punches

I'm trying to get the machinist to make .501" dies for the .500. He needs 25 orders to do it @$75 per unit. See group buy discussion.

JR

John, What type of .501" dies are you talking about?

I haven't found any reason to do anything other than PC my boolits for the 500 S&W and 2 of those boolits are 50cal muzzleloader boolits sized .501" with a Lee push through sizing die. The other being the gas check designed 440gr. which is designed for the cartridge.

I'm not exceeding 32k psi though which while is not mild, is still well below maximum.

Motor

[John Ross]

John, What type of .501" dies are you talking about?

Motor

Press-mounted dies to cut wads, as shown in the second link I posted.

JR

[Larry Gibson]

Tyguy95

"I'm looking for alternatives to gaschecks. I plan on starting to load up some .308, 06, .303, and 7.62x54r. I ordered molds from accurate molds that will be to size for both my .303 and 7.62x54r and will be sizing down the .303 to .309 for my .308 and 06. I have a sizer for .309 so I can easily gascheck them. However, I would like to avoid buying two more sizers for the other calibers."

You are using 2 different calibers; .30 and .31. The .309 will probably work ok for the .30 cals but you may want to hone it out to .311. The .303 and 7.62x54Rs are .31 calibers and will require, at best, a .312 sizer but more than likely a .314 or maybe even a .316. Assuming you slugged the bores of both before ordering the moulds? If so you'll want to at least size to the slugged diameter of the grove diameter. Hopefully you can size and use the bullets at least .001 over.

As to alternatives for GCs; unless you want to PP or PC you will not be happy with the accuracy or performance unless you keep them at a very low velocity. The GC'd bullet sans the GC, most often, will not shoot as well as a PB'd designed cast bullet and then they do well only to medium level velocities of 1400 - 1600 fps maybe. Basically the answer to your question is no, there is no viable alternative given the velocity level you mention.

"I'm using coww water quenched and plan on using vht or pc but wouldn't mind using some alox also. Is there any way to push these bullets to 2500+fps without checks?"

If you want a better alloy and better quality cast bullets add 2% tin to your COWWs. The WQing PC can help for higher velocities and you'll probably want to add the lube to avoid potential PC build up in the bore. However, 2500+ fps out of any of them unless they have 14" twists is really probably not going to happen with any degree of accuracy beyond 50 yards, even with GCs.

[vzerone]

Tyguy95, You have a pretty tall order there. Let's see if we can tackle it or some of it. First it's best to have a bullet mold for the specific caliber you will be shooting. You need, as you were told, to slug your barrel. The main reason for that is to insure you don't load and shoot a bullet that is undersize to the groove. What you want to do is fit the throat rather then the groove. That is if that will let the cartridge chamber. There are instances where a bulle that fits the throat is too fat and went loaded the case neck is to fat to fit the neck area of the chamber. It's rare, but does happen. The less you size a cast bullet the better off you are. Sizing a bullet down a lot is not good for the bullet or accuracy. So the reason I say you should have a specific mold for each caliber, sometimes even same caliber and cartridge because many bore and groove vary a lot. The 7.62x54R is one that does and so is the 303 British. The Japenese rifles are yet another.

With the velocity you want to shoot there is nothing but a standard gascheck that is going to work. I'm not the only one to tell you that. You can buy them or you can make them. Now about the gaschecks you make from soda cans and beer cans, that you put on a flatbase bullet, they are only good up to around 2200 fps. They aren't going to take your 2500 fps+. Wads won't do it either. The zinc washers may, but you add another problem of varying the consistency of your bullets. Varying consistencies in weights and other areas is very detrimental to accuracy especially at the velocity you are talking. It still comes back to the standard cast bullet with the standard gas check. As mentioned paper patched and powder coating can work.

There are many alloy combinations that will work, but I won't mention them. To shoot over 2500 fps + with accuracy is tough out of the faster twists, but it can and has been done. It also takes a cast bullet reloader with vast experience in that area to be able to do it. Everything about the componants and reloading such ammo needs to be perfect if at all possible.

Again as suggested not going to happen, why not lower your expectations and velocity to one that will give you an easier success. Gain some experience and see what does and does not work.

[Tyguy95]

The bores have all been slugged and I ordered molds as per my measurements+.02

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