Cutting the spruce

[mehavey]

When using a hard[er] alloy like #2, cutting the sprue on the first few bullets may take a tap from the rawhide mallet. After the first few, however, the sprue plate is hot enough* and allows the heel of the [gloved] hand to be best used to gauge the condition/break the sprue.

NOTE AGAIN: "breaking" the sprue is just that -- break it just slightly, then tap the handle hinge to drop that sprue off the mold... then open the sprue plate fully and drop the bullet.

Rarely -- if ever -- will you smear liquid lead on the mold with that technique.




* even w/ hotplate pre-heating, the sprue plate needs a few casts to stabilize at casting temp

[unique]

Wow, using gloved hand to open a mould...never did that. I can't imagine it works very well on a four banger mould?

Maybe we need a poll of gloved hands vs wooden mallet?

[dragon813gt]

Wow, using gloved hand to open a mould...never did that. I can't imagine it works very well on a four banger mould?

Maybe we need a poll of gloved hands vs wooden mallet?

It works fine on four, six and eight cavity molds. I'm not a fan of the Lee cam lever. Mihec uses them w/ his six cavity and up molds. They open just fine w/ a hand, w/out the lever, when everything is up to temp.

As for the poll. Go read the glove or no glove thread thread. You will find most people saying they use a glove both for safety and because it's how they open the mold.

[Ateam]

I agree, probably need a poll.

I think I have been waiting too long to open my molds, as it usually takes three or so whacks of the mallet. They are not aggressive whacks, but I can see how this would get an aluminum mold with a steel screw out of wack eventually.

[Wayne Smith]

I agree, probably need a poll.

I think I have been waiting too long to open my molds, as it usually takes three or so whacks of the mallet. They are not aggressive whacks, but I can see how this would get an aluminum mold with a steel screw out of wack eventually.

Don't worry about a poll, just wait for the sprue to harden, count to three, cut. If your mold is up to temp you can do it with your gloved hand.

[JSnover]

Wow, using gloved hand to open a mould...never did that. I can't imagine it works very well on a four banger mould?

If anything I think a mallet on a four or six cav might be an even worse idea. Again, the sprue plate is attached by only one screw and since the plate is longer on these, it would seem easier to bend the screw or the plate by smacking it around because it gives you an even greater mechanical advantage over that poor little screw way out on the end of the block.
just my $.02

[unique]

Well I wonder if the glove thing would work on 4 cav saeco mould which is pinned in the middle so has less leverage. I will give it try next time but can't fathom how I would get a mould open without a mallet or a very sore hand. Do you hit or push with the palm of your hand?

For me I need to open my mould with a mallet using 2-3 taps to break the spruce, then turn upside down and tap to knock spruce off and then flip back over and tap as I open to allow bullets to fall free. If I used my hand for all that I think after an hour I would give up casting for good.

[JSnover]

If your method works and your molds are healthy, keep at it. As long as you're not winding up with a Louisville Slugger to cut the sprue you're ok.
On my 1 and 2 cavity molds a bump with heel of my hand works. For my Lee 6 banger it takes two hands and a fair effort plus a little practice; a tight enough grip on the mold handles with one hand (but not too much, I'm not crushing walnuts) and a sort of calculated yank on the sprue plate handle.

[RCE1]

I have one of those moulds (Saeco 4 cavity) and open it with a gloved hand. No problem.

[Hickory]

I ladle pour. When the sprue solidifies I blow on it for a second and then cut it. It seems to give a clean cut without the jagged void where the sprue hole is.
But, this is just the way I do it. I'm not suggesting anyone do it this way.

[robg]

I use 2 or 3 molds .by the time the last is filled the first is ready to cut the sprue and drop the boolits.

[Duckiller]

Let the sprue get hard and its top flat then tap with the butt of a hammer handle. I f you smear wait just a bit longer. I have cut sprues with a gloved hand but the book I read said whack with the butt end of a hammer handle, so I do. Current handle was purchased from HOME DEPOT 15-20 years ago. It is starting to show some wear and tear but will probably last the rest of my life.

[gunseller]

I used an old wooden hammer handle for many years but always thought it could be hard on mold. That is how I was told to do it. About 20 years ago I went to an insulated leather glove and never looked back. Watch the lead mix turn from liquid to solid and open when it feels right. If opens hard I took too much time opening. I cast out side so time of year makes a difference on how long before opening mold. It is like anything you do timing is everything and you just have to spend time doing it to get it right for you.
Steve

[44Blam]

I like watching the liquid turn to solid, it kinda glazes over.
Then I noticed that it takes a little longer as the mold warms up, so I wait for it to glaze and give it a second or so. But I wack it politely with a 1x2 that is about 12" long.

[marek313]

Hard question to answer because it varies from one mold to another. Cavity size and number of cavities in your mold affect sprue cutting time. Large cavity mold might even need to be cooled on a wet sponge to bring temp down where small cavities only take a second and are ready to be cut. Its one of those things that just takes couple tries and you'll find a sweet spot to make great bullets.

[WFO2]

I had to learn when to cut the spruce as well . This is my third year casting and the pro's here are telling you straight . Watch the lead puddle on top when it gets solid it changes color slightly . Couple of seconds after that it is ready to cut . As soon as I feel the the spruce plate drag I hit it with some lube . I keep a Q-tip with lube on it on the bench when I'm casting . I re-lube it with lead in the mold right after I cut the spruce ,

[Gundogblue]

Thanks for the info, I’ve been useing a small mallet with a plastic side and a rubber side, I’ve been lightly tapping the spruce plate with the plastic side of the mallet, and if the boolits don’t fall right out, I’ve been lightly tapping the mould handles with the rubber side.ihave a pair of heavy leather gloves so I’m gonna try useing my hand. I guess it takes more than a few sessions to get back into casting, plus I’m learning a lot here that I never knew.
Thanks,
Paul

[mehavey]

(and God bless us every one.... )