Reloading EverythingInline FabricationLee PrecisionLoad Data
MidSouth Shooters SupplyRepackboxTitan ReloadingRotoMetals2
Wideners Snyders Jerky
Page 2 of 6 FirstFirst 123456 LastLast
Results 21 to 40 of 106

Thread: Replacing RCBS lock ring bronze/brass set screws

  1. #21
    Boolit Grand Master In Remembrance
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    The Pacific NorthWet
    Posts
    3,877
    Jim P, interesting screw source, they even have Chicago Screws (which I use for a number of things), interesting. Good sources for parts are NICE!

  2. #22
    Boolit Grand Master

    mdi's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    So. Orygun
    Posts
    7,239
    FWIW; just be aware cup point steel setscrews will dig into the die threads and damage them...
    My Anchor is holding fast!

  3. #23
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Posts
    4,612
    Quote Originally Posted by Mr_Sheesh View Post
    I'm told they gall and strip the steel lock rings so it sounds like time to replace the darn things.

    Can anyone tell me the dimensions of the set screws? I know they take a 3/32" allen wrench but that does not tell me the threading.

    (I got ticked at the missing allen wrench and bought a 50-pack of allen wrenches the other day, 1 per die set should keep things more convenient!)
    The screws are brass and they are self lubricating so they cannot damage the threads of the lock ring.
    However they can peen a divot on the die threads. To prevent damage don't tighten the set screw very tight.
    Even better is to install a .125 nylon ball under the screw. The nylon is elastic and will release its grip if you back off the screw. Lead shot does not easily release because it is not elastic.

    I agree with buying a wrench for each die set.
    EDG

  4. #24
    Boolit Grand Master In Remembrance
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    The Pacific NorthWet
    Posts
    3,877
    Hmm, I will have to figure out where to find .125 nylon balls, I can start with #7-1/2 lead shot for now as I can get the rings to release, pretty much guaranteed. Have to find some shot tho :P

  5. #25
    Boolit Grand Master

    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    England,Ar
    Posts
    7,693
    A trick that I learned long ago was to loosen the set screw and tap it with a plastic mallet. That makes the lead shot back off of the threads. And no, I'm not smart enough to have discovered that trick. I think I may have read about it in an old gun magazine?

  6. #26
    Boolit Master NoAngel's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Posts
    818
    I’ve yet to figure out why it’s so important to have a locking lock ring. It takes less than a minute to adjust a die and snug the lock ring down.
    When dealing with islam one should always ask themselves: "What would Leonidas do?"

  7. #27
    Boolit Bub
    Join Date
    Dec 2017
    Posts
    36
    I dont understand the need to use the set screw at all.. I have never used them on any die I have, and have been loading for a long time. A .25 cent O-ring under the lock ring will set the die and will not allow the adjustment to change. Rarely do I ever full length size and "cam over" the press. but if I do, tightening the nock ring down a tight finger tight while the press is "Cammed over" locks everything securely in place. I measure headspace,and find the o-ring makes it extremely easy to get very fine precise adjustments to settings,,just bumping the shoulder back a thousandth or two..

  8. #28
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Posts
    4,612
    Apparently many of you do not exercise much precision when setting your dies. So you might be hand gun shooters with only straight walled cases. I have FL dies that took 30 min to an hour to set exactly match my rifle chambers. I can set them to the nearest .001 and every case will be perfectly sized. Ammo is more accurate and cases last longer.
    EDG

  9. #29
    Boolit Master
    JSnover's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Sicklerville NJ
    Posts
    4,381
    I'm with the guys who don't over-tighten them to begin with but if you're in the habit of setting and re-setting and you don't have shot or pellets you can substitute other items. Any small chunk of plastic would work as a thread saver. Or a bit of copper wire, hammered more or less flat.
    Warning: I know Judo. If you force me to prove it I'll shoot you.

  10. #30
    Boolit Master


    Soundguy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2016
    Location
    N Central Florida
    Posts
    2,837
    Quote Originally Posted by Moosegooser View Post
    I dont understand the need to use the set screw at all.. I have never used them on any die I have, and have been loading for a long time. A .25 cent O-ring under the lock ring will set the die and will not allow the adjustment to change. Rarely do I ever full length size and "cam over" the press. but if I do, tightening the nock ring down a tight finger tight while the press is "Cammed over" locks everything securely in place. I measure headspace,and find the o-ring makes it extremely easy to get very fine precise adjustments to settings,,just bumping the shoulder back a thousandth or two..
    It may keep the die set in that press, but if you pull that die out, it wont go back in perfect because that non licked ring will move.

  11. #31
    Boolit Bub
    Join Date
    Dec 2017
    Posts
    36
    I don't care! I actually back off the original position, then slowly lower the die as I measure head space with a gauge.. each time I size.. I record the measurement,, and size till I get exact measurement each time.

  12. #32
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Posts
    3,901
    All my dies wear Forster cross locking rings for use in the Co-ax.

  13. #33
    Boolit Grand Master In Remembrance
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    The Pacific NorthWet
    Posts
    3,877
    I have FL bottleneck rifle dies that have been set in the exact same position since at least 1963ish; Set to neck size or seat for one rifle that didn't get stolen (Family members SIGH.) I'd just as soon not have to mess with it every time I load a few custom rounds for that, and especially rather not mangle my brass etc. due to 1 screw being loose. If you change presses you do have to adjust things, but otherwise lock rings should be locked

  14. #34
    Boolit Bub
    Join Date
    Dec 2017
    Posts
    36
    I can record the measurement from the back of the case to a point on the shoulder of a fired case from my rifle... This is a fire formed duplicate of my chamber,, or pretty close to one..... I install my die, and turn it down, till that shoulder measurement, (Headspace) decreases by 1 0r 2 thousandths. The O-ring is up against the press, centering, and squaring the die, the lock ring has tension against that, and allows me to very precisely lower the die till I achieve the correct measurement.. that measurement will not change. the friction of the O-ring, keeps the die centered ,square, and at the proper depth..
    My press is spared the wear and tear of" camming over " annnd I don't over work my brass.. they last a Long Long time..
    Pretty basic stuff really.

    Mr Sheesh.. have you not dis -assembled your dies and completely cleaned them since 63 ish?

    I actually clean my dies each time I resize. Remove stem ,,spray out die with gunscrubber,, clean, lightly polish expander ball with semichrome ,then lightly grease it.. I am not worried about the previous setting. I have my rifles headspace measurement recorded..

    I don't understand wegdging a steel screw against the die threads ... It jus not necessary..
    Last edited by HATCH; 12-24-2017 at 10:54 PM. Reason: merge threads done within mins of each other

  15. #35
    Boolit Buddy KMac's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    Texas
    Posts
    377
    Quote Originally Posted by Tom W. View Post
    I changed a few out to the Hornady rings. I like them better. I believe Sinclair sells some that are round but still have the crosslock feature.
    And I have also changed all of mine to the Hornady rings. I really like them better than the RCBS rings.
    " My people skills are just fine. It's my tolerance for idiots that needs work."

  16. #36
    Boolit Master
    JSnover's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Sicklerville NJ
    Posts
    4,381
    Quote Originally Posted by Moosegooser View Post
    I don't understand wegdging a steel screw against the die threads ... It jus not necessary..
    It's convenient for people who only have one press and numerous dies. If the rings are locked they can just screw one set out and screw the other set in.
    Warning: I know Judo. If you force me to prove it I'll shoot you.

  17. #37
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Posts
    4,612
    Quote Originally Posted by JSnover View Post
    I'm with the guys who don't over-tighten them to begin with but if you're in the habit of setting and re-setting and you don't have shot or pellets you can substitute other items. Any small chunk of plastic would work as a thread saver. Or a bit of copper wire, hammered more or less flat.
    The first place I have seen the nylon balls used was the chromed Lyman dies of the 1960s. I have bought 8-32 nylon screws and cut off short pieces with side cutters to use when nylon balls were not available.
    I know how to loosen lead shot by whacking the die but nylon is a much better material.
    EDG

  18. #38
    Boolit Grand Master In Remembrance
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    The Pacific NorthWet
    Posts
    3,877
    Cleaned, yes; How does cleaning them require that I remove the lock rings, though? (And you can fix the other parts together so you don't lose settings, as well.) I just don't see having to chase the same problem over and over; That's why I set the low idle up on my car instead of having to push on the gas pedal to keep the car running, that's why I have a fridge instead of an ice box, and that's why I learned to reload instead of having to buy ammo by the box. Some call it "laziness' but an awful lot of people call it "being smart"; Make LESS work for yourself instead of far more. Do things smart instead of the hardest way possible, and so on.) If you REALLY want to do things the hard way, sell your rifles and just manually insert the bullets into the game animals :P

  19. #39
    Boolit Bub
    Join Date
    Dec 2017
    Posts
    36
    Quote Originally Posted by Mr_Sheesh View Post
    Cleaned, yes; How does cleaning them require that I remove the lock rings, though? (And you can fix the other parts together so you don't lose settings, as well.) I just don't see having to chase the same problem over and over; That's why I set the low idle up on my car instead of having to push on the gas pedal to keep the car running, that's why I have a fridge instead of an ice box, and that's why I learned to reload instead of having to buy ammo by the box. Some call it "laziness' but an awful lot of people call it "being smart"; Make LESS work for yourself instead of far more. Do things smart instead of the hardest way possible, and so on.) If you REALLY want to do things the hard way, sell your rifles and just manually insert the bullets into the game animals :P
    Do you lock the seating depth stem also? or is it a burden for you to adjust settings for different lengths? .0213 jump regards...
    Last edited by ReloaderFred; 12-24-2017 at 04:12 PM. Reason: Rediculous statement!

  20. #40
    Boolit Grand Master

    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    England,Ar
    Posts
    7,693
    Quote Originally Posted by KMac View Post
    And I have also changed all of mine to the Hornady rings. I really like them better than the RCBS rings.
    I like the Hornady and Sinclair rings better too! But not enough to buy a bunch. I've never had any trouble with any of my RCBS or Redding rings. The ones that I don't like are the ones with the "O" ring. It just seems like a fix for a nonexistent problem.

Page 2 of 6 FirstFirst 123456 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check