Primer pocket swager

[Thin Man]

I use the RCBS swaging tool ( similar to a die set that mounts in a handloading press) and enjoy having the ability to adjust the amount or degree of crimp removal the tool will provide.

[jdfoxinc]

If you have an RCBS trim mate or Lyman equivalent buy the crimp remover. You can't over cut. Very quick.

[nh7792]

Dillon SS600. Been using mine for years. I would also recommend the Ballistic tools primer pocket go/no-go gauge. Found out the hard way a while back that each different headstamp swages a little different.

[Rodbuster55]

This fast?

Now that's a cool setup! No doubt mine would be flung all over the basement floor though!

[dragon813gt]

The first question is do you plan on swaging a lot of brass in the future? If so cry once and buy the Dillon. I went through all of the press mounted ones and eventually bought the Dillon. Should have bought it to begin w/. I got tired or ripping case heads off or improperly swaged pockets w/ the CH4D tool. That was the last one I had before switching to the Dillon.

[mdi]

MDI, which countersink did u use? What dia? I know the swage is only at the outside top, but what taper to keep off the bottom of the pocket.

I have used both 82 and 90 degree countersinks. Lately I found a 60 degree that works quite well. I have a couple carbide tools and a few high speed steel countersinks and the HS steel will work just fine for quite a while (I still have some I've used for deburring from the late '60s). None hit bottom.

I have been removing the crimp with a countersink for mebbe 20 years and have yet to "cut one too much". For any danger to come from cutting out a crimp the cut would have to be severe, probably. 1/8"+ deep. Only a few thousandths of an inch needs to be removed and much more is usually done in ignorance. Cut a little , mebbe 3 turns with moderate pressure, check with a probe to see if ridge/crimp is gone.

I've also used my Lyman case mouth deburring/chamfering tool https://www.amazon.com/Lyman-Case-Pr...g+chamfer+tool

One of the reasons I recommend certain tools is that not every tool a reloader uses needs to be a dedicated "reloading tool". The counter sinks are one tool that works quite well but isn't labeled "reloading". Many of my reloading tools came out of my machinist/mechanic's tool box and not from MidwayUsa (and often less expensive too) and I think new reloaders should be aware that most case conditioning tools are simple metal working tools.

Jes an old guy's opinion..

[Artful]

I have used both 82 and 90 degree countersinks. Lately I found a 60 degree that works quite well. I have a couple carbide tools and a few high speed steel countersinks and the HS steel will work just fine for quite a while (I still have some I've used for deburring from the late '60s). None hit bottom.

I have been removing the crimp with a countersink for mebbe 20 years and have yet to "cut one too much". For any danger to come from cutting out a crimp the cut would have to be severe, probably. 1/8"+ deep. Only a few thousandths of an inch needs to be removed and much more is usually done in ignorance. Cut a little , mebbe 3 turns with moderate pressure, check with a probe to see if ridge/crimp is gone.

I've also used my Lyman case mouth deburring/chamfering tool https://www.amazon.com/Lyman-Case-Pr...g+chamfer+tool

One of the reasons I recommend certain tools is that not every tool a reloader uses needs to be a dedicated "reloading tool". The counter sinks are one tool that works quite well but isn't labeled "reloading". Many of my reloading tools came out of my machinist/mechanic's tool box and not from MidwayUsa (and often less expensive too) and I think new reloaders should be aware that most case conditioning tools are simple metal working tools.

Jes an old guy's opinion..

MDI, I applaud your thinking - While I used my Swiss Army Knife's small blade to remove military brass crimps for many years (and many years ago), I do own the RCBS and Dillon versions for a reason - and that is more consistent results but if you (or anyone else) can get those same results without a dedicated tool feel free to keep on truck'n.

[308Jeff]

I use a utility knife. It only takes a second or two, and the only thing you're removing is the crimp itself - a very tiny ring of brass. I don't like the amount of material removed by the cutting reamers, and I didn't have enough patience to use the Dillon tool.

I've done thousands and thousands of pieces of brass this way, and it's just the easiest way for me. I've only slipped and cut myself once!

[Hick]

For doing lots of cases I prefer the Lyman hand-held primer pocket reamer. The trick is that I drop the case nose first into the chuck of my hand drill, put the tool in the primer pocket and use the drill to turn the case. Quick and easy and very consistent because the lyman tool cuts the crimp without tearing up the primer pocket.

[Wayne Smith]

OK, I put the Lyman tool in the chuck and hold the brass. I guess it works the same either way.

[scattershot]

I use the chamfer bit, too, chucked up in a hand drill. A second with that 45degree bit is all it takes. You develop a feel for it pretty quickly, and it goes fast.

[Walter Laich]

Dillon user here

got a good deal on a used one and it does the job

'nough said

[mdi]

My posts about countersinks weren't meant to be "anti-swagers", just telling a new reloader there are options for reloading tools that can be found in most tool boxes. Somebody once said "there's more than one way to peel a potato" and reloading processes are one of those where as long as the results satisfy the reloader and it's safe, then it's OK...

[popper]

Case in the chuck prevents blisters.

[Bama]

Any recommendations for the easy to use primer pocket swagger to remove crimped primers?
I know Dillon makes a bench mount unit, rcbs makes a bench mount and dies.
I have 500 308 to process.
Thanks
Mike

+1 for Dillon!

[bob208]

I use the rcbs press mounted tool. have done many thousands of both large and small pockets.

[VHoward]

I have the RCBS press mounted die and a Dillon SS600 and a RCBS crimped primer pocket cutter for my case prep center. I find the cutter gives me more consistent results.

[country gent]

I have used a lot of different things to remove primer crimps. Counter sinks, the RCBS swager, The Dillon tool, an exacto knife.
1) the counter sink works well and can be pretty quick if ran in a drill motor or press. One addition that really improves it and consistency is a stop collar/ bushing with a small set screw to lock it to the countersink. this can be set to give the same depth counter sink cut and square to the case rim. Its just a simple tube I.D. of the counter sink of to give 1/8" wall thickness with a taped hole to lock it in place. A Wilson or rcbs deburring tool works the same as the counter sink.
2) RCBS swager is a decent tool but is a little slower than the counter sink or dillion. I made a new push off cup for mine that could be fit to the frame so it was squarer when pushing case off. It was also longer shortening stroke needed to swage and push off. Better and the fitted cup didn't egg shape primer pockets near as much. On a new push off cup it could be fitted with a bushing to fit the ram with .005-.010 clearance and accomplish the same things.
3) Dillon swager, Is a very good tool quick and easy, care must be taken not to over swage the pockets. Keeps pockets round and true. Mine has carbide swage pins now. this helps with slowing wear. It does take more room on the bench though. A spot to clamp or mount it.
4) the knife, is slow and risk of slip and cuts is high. Slow and inconsistent, but does a small amount of cases okay. Also the amount of force needed changes as the blades dull. One of the deburring blades for machinists works also like the knife.

[Lloyd Smale]

ive got a dillion and it works great

[flashhole]

I use the RCBS tool. Woks great. A dab of Imperial Sizing Die Wax on the button now and then keeps things working smoothly. I contacted RCBS about the release mechanism not fitting the ram on my Lee Classic Turret. They sent me a larger one that did fit. Common sense should win the day here. If it is sticking, regardless of the manufacturer, use a bit of lube.