I did a little research this afternoon and I've seen where people have talked about loading these bullets a little shorter due to the shape. So, I took off all my dies and reinstalled them, just to be sure everything was correct there. And then loaded some to 1.13, and some to 1.12. I'll try those and see how it goes.
wdfwguy,
I recently experienced a standard Lee 9mm sizing die that was not resizing some cases enough to allow for reliable feeding. I assumed a lot of other causes for the problem but finally tried loading some of the resized brass in the chamber and some of the cases would not go all the way in. Lee makes an undersized reloading die for 9mm and that solved the problem. I don't know if the original Lee resizing die was defective or if some of the brass was bulged more than normal. I tried sizing some of the brass in Lyman and Dillon sizing dies and it chambered without a hitch.
Failures to eject and stovepipes may be gun issues or loads that are too light. Otherwise, I have no suggestions for those problems.
I was having the problem primarily with a Springfield 1911 but most of the rounds would feed through my Glock 19, and Glock 43 with only an occasional failure to feed.
Gus Youmans
Glocked brass.
A push thru sizer will de bulge it.
Are you sure about your loads?
I don't load 9mm but I cast for it for a couple of friends.
I just looked in Lee's second edition, and I see a 125 gr lead bullet load with Accur#2 is between 4.1 gr and 4.5 gr, and even at 4.5 it is about 10% lower pressure than the average for other loads.
Even the 124 gr jacketed bullet load goes up to 4.1 gr to achieve average pressures, and if your lead bullets are Hi-tek coated they will generate even lower pressures than normal lead loads
An underpowered load might explain the stovepiping.
Hard work made me what I am today,
Broken and broke
******************************
Bob
probably the most misunderstood item to make autoloaders feed reloads, is the crimp die.
Bullet seater by itself doesnt necessarily remove all the case mouth bell.
I had most all the same problems as described, until, I began using a crimp die.
That's when my cast reloads started feeding like factory ammo.
Seating a bullet for a auto pistol is really a 2-step process,
the seater die sets the OAL,
and the crimp die removes the last little bit of case mouth bell
WDFWGUY, do you happen to have a Chronograph, or access to one? It might be an idea to run the loads you're having a problem with, thru a Chrony, to see how consistent they are at MV. It will also tell you how the loads compare with the reloading manual's published MV.
I have an old "Chrony" Chronograph that gives me a lot of feedback on my reloads, they only run around $100. on sale, and are a great tool.
Actually, I just ordered a ProChrono one yesterday
I'm still having some little issues. I loaded some 45acp in 230gr and 200gr swc. The 230s ran fine, but the 200s would occasionally not chamber fully. The slide wouldn't completely close, and it was sticking a little trying to kick them out. I took the gun apart and they dropped in and fell out of the chamber, but then would occasionally stick when firing. I suppose just a learning curve to this whole thing.
I think you'll learn to love the Chrony, mine has been soaked in a hurricane, shot at and hit, (NOT BY ME)! and has been to the school of hard knocks, and still seems to keep on going, despite it's age!
On the .45 Ammo, does it digest commercial ammo O.K.? If so it's most likely not a weak mainspring, any idea how many rounds at on the mainspring?
Another thing I would check, is your case length, depending on how many times it has been reloaded, brass cases will stretch a bit from the sizing/depriming process. It's a good idea to check them with a case length gauge, after depriming/sizing, especially with Range pick up brass, as you don't know the history of the brass.
Are you using a good taper crimp die? Are you reaming the case necks, inside and out, to remove any burrs?
Have you checked the chamber and feedramp with a strong flashlight, to make sure there are no rough spots/burrs? (I have a bud who had a Kimber sub-compact .45, and he bought it brand new-- couldn't get it to shoot consistently-- I checked it out under strong light, and found a deep gouge in the feed ramp, that was on there when he bought it! He sent it back to Kimber and got his money back!)
Are you running very hot loads? Are the fired primers flattened?
O.K., you've got your homework assignment, now report back, so we can check your progress!!! LOL!
I can tell you this, I've been reloading since 1958, and am still learning new things, every day--Learning curve, indeed! I still run into things that make me scratch my head!/
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |