Stripping paint off of a triumph reciever

[michael.birdsley]

Spray booth so far. It should be wide enough to get most anything fun related including barrels in there at 30 inches. It will Be nice to have a place to paint stuff. This is built pretty heavy duty. I could have gotten away with smaller dimensional lumber for the braces.


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[michael.birdsley]

Up date. It is coming along bit by bit. Have the blower motor and vent hooked up. Supposed to be Warmer this week and than I will caulk around the vent. When this is done I’ll be tackling stripping and painting my triumph receiver


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[michael.birdsley]

Preatty much all done just minor things like caulk, lights, hooking it up the stack in the garage, and paint( prolly wait for spring)


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[Shopdog]

A few comments on air line filters,and really suggest further study on them.

Generally,the further from comp tank you install the filter/s,the better.It's a heat thing.You're trying to cool the comp air as much as possible,which makes the job of separating the water and mayo(oil blow by on comp head) much easier.A "fruitjar" separator installed right at the tank may seem logical but,because of the airs heat...it's almost a waste of time.Take that same fruitjar and mount it after 50' of line and you'll see the water come out.This is just a heads up cause,it gets a whole lot more complex(cooling the air for separation) and requires some legwork.Don't put too much faith in manufacturing claims,they aren't in the business of,telling the whole story,further....since every shop has different requirements,it needs to be evaluated on case by case.Good luck with your project.

[michael.birdsley]

A few comments on air line filters,and really suggest further study on them.

Generally,the further from comp tank you install the filter/s,the better.It's a heat thing.You're trying to cool the comp air as much as possible,which makes the job of separating the water and mayo(oil blow by on comp head) much easier.A "fruitjar" separator installed right at the tank may seem logical but,because of the airs heat...it's almost a waste of time.Take that same fruitjar and mount it after 50' of line and you'll see the water come out.This is just a heads up cause,it gets a whole lot more complex(cooling the air for separation) and requires some legwork.Don't put too much faith in manufacturing claims,they aren't in the business of,telling the whole story,further....since every shop has different requirements,it needs to be evaluated on case by case.Good luck with your project.

That makes sense because, you are not going to make water untill that air gets cold enough for condensation. So the filter at the tank is useless. Yes I’ll have to look further into this.


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[Shopdog]

Michael,two things that air does "better" than moisture;

One is gravity.In an abstract sense,if you had a straight up vertical air line,at some point of travel the moisture separates out because it's heavier.Think,a small...moisture ladened,overwhelmed pancake compressor being used on a hot,humid day.It's on the ground,and we're using a nailgun on a 2nd story roof.Moisture generally won't make it to the gun.The opposite would be a problem,having the line,"draining"...towards the nailgun,spraygun,media blaster,etc.

The next "trick" is,air can change direction,WAY faster than the moisture.Look up images of old Sailor Bealle (sp) air compressors.You're looking for these aluminum,finned expansion tanks that are located just after the comp head,but before the tank.They're alum/finned to dissipate heat....doh.But what you aren't seeing is the tube arrangements inside this expansion tank.It's the instant reversal of air that acts as the separator.These have their own drains on them.And from an engineering standpoint,is the best place to "attack" the heat....with attendant moisture.The SB expansion tanks are small because of $$ and packaging requirements.Shoot the temp on the line coming from comp head with a point N shoot gun.It's gonna be pushing 200*F.Anything you can do to lower this line temp is the first step twds overall separation.So when studying images for ideas,pay attention to the systems BETWEEN comp head and tank.Best,Shopdog.

PS,once a rubber air line gets contamination,you need to be careful using it with certain finishes or application.

[michael.birdsley]

That’s good advice about the heat in compressed air that I didn’t think about.

This time around I have settled on buying the dura coat can in a can spray paint for doing this project. I have been doing a lot of research on it. The refinishing kit costs about 40-50 bucks depending on where I order it from. The kit includes the degreaser and paint. It takes about a month to fully cure but, I think it will do it’s job with little investment . If I could get 5-6 years out of the finish I will be happy. The hardware store spray paint that I put on three years really has not done that bad of a job just some scratches chips here and there ( I’ve seen worse). I think if you are looking for a great looking finish and rock hard finish, cerakote is the way to go. I just have to build a oven and figure out the best way to hook the air up. With a new little one and wanting to get some other stuff done that will be a long term goal. One worth doing and maybe make some side money.


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