Ideal Mold

[rdwarrior]

I have the chance to pick up a used Ideal 358156 mold without handles. It is in not so perfect condition.
Two questions:
1) how best to properly clean the mold
2) will lyman 2 cavity handles fit the deal 2 cavity mold?
TIA
Ron

[AZBronco]

"how to clean the mold"
RUST? LEAD? OTHER?

[sawinredneck]

1) Depends on what cleaning it needs?
2) Yes, or the Lee six cavity handles will also work, cheaper.

[mdi]

I've cleaned molds a few different ways. If the mold is just dirty or oily, I'll use Dawn w/hot water and a toothbrush. If there is any light corrosion or gunk in the cavity, I'll make a lap and use toothpaste to clean the cavity. If the bullets stick in the cavity or there is more corrosion than toothpaste will clean up I'll make a lap and use very fine lapping compound. Most often though, on molds in pretty good shape, I'll just squirt with brake clean before heating for a casting session...

Check the stickies; http://castboolits.gunloads.com/foru...nce-and-Design

[largom]

If the mold is full of old grease I would boil in water, let set until water cools or put in freezer long enough to harden grease then clean with Dawn and tooth brush.
You can then inspect the mold to determine additional steps needed if any.

Larry

[Grmps]

Lyman mold handles come in several different opening widths. A Lyman 2 cavity handle will most likely fit an Ideal mold.

A little more information in your description would be helpful for us to help you better.

Pictures are worth a thousand words, the easiest way I've found is Imgur

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...g-screen-shots

It depends on how rough the mold is as to if it is worth getting. Any damage to the cavities and the answer is no.
If it's coated/caked with dried grease, that is how some people store their molds to keep them from rusting --boiling is good
if it's rusty, remove the loose with a brass brush, soak in Evapo-Rust™ from HF works

like previously stated, if your buying new to you, Lee 6 cavities are reasonable 1 size fits most but they are longer than Lyman and the cast molds will get heavier faster.

[Moonie]

My Lee 6 cavity handles all fit my Ideal mold.

[John Boy]

Hey folks - stop guessing. If the OP doesn't want to reply with the answer to the dirty mold ... let him figure it out himself

[HATCH]

Hey folks - stop guessing. If the OP doesn't want to reply with the answer to the dirty mold ... let him figure it out himself

You know that sometimes people forget about posts they do or they aren't online they often.
Also there may be other readers that have the same problem that are looking for a solution.

Cast Boolits has 3 times the amount of readers as they do posters just a FYI.

May I suggest that you keep such comments to yourself in the future.

[Iowa Fox]

Over the years I've picked up some really ugly Ideals. I always give them a good soak in Kroil, never get impatient with a mold. Then I wipe with a paper towel and resoak with Kroil, wraped in a paper towel, and then put them in a zip lock bag for weeks or months. Then when I get ready to try them I scrub good with HOT water, dish soap using a tooth brush. Maybe 3 or 4 good scrubs with the Hot water and dish soap. Unless someone has beat up the cavity don't be afraid of ugly as they always surprise me.

[toallmy]

Saving a neglected old mold is a labor of love , it's part of the hobby that I enjoy .

[rdwarrior]

Everyone who responded to my original post - thank you for your help and info. I was unable to post photos because the mold was not mine yet - it was one for sale and all I had were the pics he posted to go by.
Thank you
Ron

[John Boy]

Ron, when you receive the mold - post a picture or two and possibly identify the type coating that needs to be cleaned (including the mold cavities)- if you can. Am sure folks then will provide answers based on the type of coating how to clean the mold ... me included.
Let's hope that this mold has no rusting on the mold cavities, especially the bullet cavitity

[gwpercle]

Saving a neglected old mold is a labor of love , it's part of the hobby that I enjoy .

Me too ! Whenever I see an old neglected mould on a flea market table, It just cries out for salvation, a home where it will used and loved.
I think I have a mould addiction...I just can't walk off and leave them ! Unless the price is outrageous !
Gary

[beltfed]

on a mold that is simply oil/etc bathed, I soak the disassembled mold in paint thinner/mineral spirits overnight or so
Then, I wipe the components of the mold with paper toweling, followed by soaking in acetone. Then pull the components
out of the acetone bath, and immediately blow off(OILLLESS air pressure) or wipe with paper towels, and let dry. Mold should
perform in casting after heating over a hot plate or on edge of lead pot.

If the Ideal or other IRON/steel mold has light corrosion or crud (not heavy red rust/pitting).Soak in commecial muriatic (hydrochloric) acid, follow with water rinse and DRY it .
One ends up with an overall grey color. Have had molds that looked poorly that were essentially perfect casters after this treatment.
AND, I do not oil/etc my molds after use. they go, after cooling immediately into good sealing ammo cans along with VPI paper.
Have kept molds 60 years this way with no rust. AND, they are ready for casting right out of the can
beltfed/arnie

[AllanD]

on a mold that is simply oil/etc bathed, I soak the disassembled mold in paint thinner/mineral spirits overnight or so
Then, I wipe the components of the mold with paper toweling, followed by soaking in acetone. Then pull the components
out of the acetone bath, and immediately blow off(OILLLESS air pressure) or wipe with paper towels, and let dry. Mold should
perform in casting after heating over a hot plate or on edge of lead pot.


If the Ideal or other IRON/steel mold has light corrosion or crud (not heavy red rust/pitting).Soak in commecial muriatic (hydrochloric) acid, follow with water rinse and DRY it .
One ends up with an overall grey color. Have had molds that looked poorly that were essentially perfect casters after this treatment.
AND, I do not oil/etc my molds after use. they go, after cooling immediately into good sealing ammo cans along with VPI paper.
Have kept molds 60 years this way with no rust. AND, they are ready for casting right out of the can
beltfed/arnie

FOR The Record: "mineral spirits" is a commercial product standard that is "deodorized Kerosene" with a specific High Flashpoint

VM&P "Naptha" is a much better degreaser, Aerosol "brake cleaner" is better yet

[sharpsguy]

STAY AWAY from aerosol brake cleaner for cleaning bullet molds!! When heated, brake cleaner gives off phosgene gas which causes immediate and irreversal brain damage when the fumes are inhaled. You can use carb cleaner, but NOT brake cleaner.

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

I have the chance to pick up a used Ideal 358156 mold without handles. It is in not so perfect condition.
Two questions:
1) how best to properly clean the mold
2) will lyman 2 cavity handles fit the deal 2 cavity mold?
TIA
Ron

Ron,
welcome to the forum.
If you are new to casting, buying a potentially troublesome mold may be a mistake.
BUT, whether or not that is the case, if you are handy (and most casters, even beginners, are handy), Buying a Ideal mold is tough to resist.

Ideal molds hold a certain allure of days gone by, they haven't been made for many decades. I've found Ideal molds function better than their newer Lyman counter-parts. I am always on the lookout for inexpensive Ideal molds, when I've found them, I have rarely been disappointed, but of course condition is everything, some gunk and/or light surface rust is no big deal. Rust pitting in the cavities is a deal killer for me, rust pitting anywhere else isn't a big deal. Damage from abuse is another thing, If there is damage on the top of the mold, where the sprue plate rides, that can usually be fixed, but you need to work slowly and keep everything level and plumb. Damage from heavy use is usually oblong alignment holes and/or worn alignment pins,and mostly you just have to live with that.

How I clean a old mold that is dirty, gunky, and/or light surface rust:
I use gun oil or Ed's Red and a course denim cloth (from old Jeans), and rub everything off with just finger power, no power tools or metal brushes please, I like to keep as much of the original patina as possible. Then clean the oil and loosened gunk with hot water, dish soap, and toothbrush. Then do a test cast and see how it functions. Further actions may not be needed...and more advice would be dependent on the precise issue.
Good Luck.

[Moonie]

STAY AWAY from aerosol brake cleaner for cleaning bullet molds!! When heated, brake cleaner gives off phosgene gas which causes immediate and irreversal brain damage when the fumes are inhaled. You can use carb cleaner, but NOT brake cleaner.

This is why you use non-chlorinated brake cleaner...

[sharpsguy]

I don't think the OP specified whether the brake cleaner was "non-chlorinated" or not. He just said "brake cleaner". I just play it safe and stay away from brake cleaner, period.