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Thread: Redhawk .44 Question

  1. #1
    Boolit Buddy
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    Redhawk .44 Question

    I just got one of the 4.2" barreled Redhawks and really like it. I haven't had time to take it out and shoot it, but have been doing some casting and handloads. One of the things I was able to do was measure the cylinder throats with some (USA made) gage pins I have. I could get a .431 pin into all the chambers but not a .432 in any of them. This tells me they are pretty consistent and none are smaller than .431 or as large as .432. This is a good thing, no?

  2. #2
    Boolit Grand Master

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    Sounds like they are consistent and all you need to do is cast some boolits and see how she shoots.

  3. #3
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    missionary5155's Avatar
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    Good morning
    It is good to have the consistency there. That is a big step in the right direction.
    Now the barrel.. Is it consistent ? Is it a smaller diameter than the cylinders? Is there tight spots at the threads and under the stampings ? Just a few more issues to know about for all revolvers.
    Mike in Peru
    "Come unto Me, all you who labor and are heavy burdened, and I will give you rest." Matthew 11:28
    Male Guanaco out in dry lakebed at 10,800 feet south of Arequipa.

  4. #4
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    Size to .431" and go shoot it!
    Got a .22 .30 .32 .357 .38 .40 .41 .44 .45 .480 or .500 S&W cylinder that needs throats honed? 9mm, 10mm/40S&W, 45 ACP pistol barrel that won't "plunk" your handloads? 480 Ruger or 475 Linebaugh cylinder that needs the "step" reamed to 6° 30min chamfer? Click here to send me a PM You can also find me on Facebook Click Here.

  5. #5
    Boolit Master MyFlatline's Avatar
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    I just reamed the cylinders to .432 on my new Blackhawk, they were consistent at .431 but the barrel was a touch larger. It still will not accept my 255 gr. bullet tho, do to the ogive. So far it prefers the 200 gr. cast sized at .432 after powder coating.

  6. #6
    Boolit Buddy
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    I think the next thing for me to do is slug the barrel. Probably shoot it some, first. I've also got the makin's of a trigger job, waiting for the time to take it all apart.

  7. #7
    Boolit Master
    Mal Paso's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RCE1 View Post
    I think the next thing for me to do is slug the barrel. Probably shoot it some, first. I've also got the makin's of a trigger job, waiting for the time to take it all apart.
    If you haven't been inside one the trigger is different. A Lot of the critical parts are not for sale except by sending your gun in for Ruger Factory service. You can find the parts that are available through Brownelles.com so you know ahead of time how much trouble you're in.
    Mal

    Mal Paso means Bad Pass, just so you know.

  8. #8
    Boolit Buddy
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    That's what I understand. I've opened a few cans of worms in my checkered past, so I expect I'll have it apart sooner or later...

  9. #9
    Boolit Bub
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    Size to the throats, don't go super hard on the alloy and have fun.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by PapaG View Post
    Size to the throats, don't go super hard on the alloy and have fun.
    Nope. This is a backwards approach since with Ruger, the throat sizes are known to be undersize and uneven across the entire span of their production due to their manufacturing procedures. Size the throats to accommodate the boolit diameter you want to shoot.
    Got a .22 .30 .32 .357 .38 .40 .41 .44 .45 .480 or .500 S&W cylinder that needs throats honed? 9mm, 10mm/40S&W, 45 ACP pistol barrel that won't "plunk" your handloads? 480 Ruger or 475 Linebaugh cylinder that needs the "step" reamed to 6° 30min chamfer? Click here to send me a PM You can also find me on Facebook Click Here.

  11. #11
    Boolit Master

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    Quote Originally Posted by RCE1 View Post
    I think the next thing for me to do is slug the barrel. Probably shoot it some, first. I've also got the makin's of a trigger job, waiting for the time to take it all apart.
    You might try pin gauging the barrel to check for frame crush to determine if fire lapping is needed. As I recall, you'll be around .417" on the bore, so start a couple smaller and work up. Be gentle, and have a flexible rod, like the plastic ones that come with Glocks, to push the gauge back out to the muzzle if it sticks.

    Trigger Job on DA Ruger: before you go nuts on AM parts, try a lot of dry firing with a heavy dose of CLP on the innards, followed by a flush and more sensible lube after all the gritty bits get flushed clear. Has made a world of difference on several of mine.
    WWJMBD?

    In the Land of Oz, we cast with wheel weight and 2% Tin, Man.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
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GC Gas Check