what is the bare minimum for reloading

[Bear foot bowhunter]

hi guys and gals
Im not sure if this is the right section
i have a number of questions but first of what is the bear minimum i need for reloading. i want to make my shooting a bit more economical and also subsonic loads . i dont like the idea of the classic leelaoder so scratch that . i was thinking a
lee hand loader press
dies
lee scoops
electronic scales potentially hornady
powder trickler
and then what i need to cast a few different loads
moulds
will a bench top hotplate melt led in a small cast iron pot ?
are weal weights hard enough alone to load subsonic without gas-checks

which brings me to my next question . i have a remington 700 sps tactical in 308 the black vision with what i believe is a 1/12 twist whats the heaviest and lightest subsonic loads i can work up for this iv heard some say anything over 170 is to heavy for the 1/12 and others say it dose not matter whats right

is there any 100gr moulds for the 308 and will trailboss be adequate to keep it around 1000-1200fps

Iv got so meany questions but ill start with these
any help would be amazing thanks in advance

Drew

[Lloyd Smale]

a mechanical scale will be cheaper. Especially if you don't mind using lee junk. you will also need some ability to seat primers. better off with a propane camp stove then an electric burner. WWs are hard enough as is for about any cast shooting out of a decent barrel and even high velocity rifle bullets if you water drop them if leading is what your worried about. I use gas checked bullets more because I just have been luck with accuracy with them then anything else. If your loading cast in bottle neck cases you also need a way to flare then neck to get the bullet started in without shaving lead and as for a 100 grain mold. Most 312 handgun molds will work. Especially if you invest in a cheap lee bullet sizing die. Even if you don't size your going to need a way to lube those bullets. so you will at least need a bottle of lee alox to tumble lube them. What I would do if I were you is watch the classified here and on craigs list. theres allways handloaders getting out of the game and you could probably pick up some GOOD used quality stuff for the same price your going to pay for lee stuff new.

[Shawlerbrook]

Press, primer seating device if not on press, dies, Imperial Sizing Wax, a scale , someway to measure powder, calipers to measure coal, and most importantly a good reloading manual. This plus components will get you started, but eventually you’ll be adding things that while not a necessity, make your job easier and better.

[john.k]

The bare minimum?.....Sounds like everything bar the kitchen sink...I started reloading with a tong tool mould,tin can on a wood fire for casting, a old firing pin for decapping,a case soldered onto a length of wire for a powder measure.Had no idea you could actually buy all the expensive stuff to do the same job. I still use cases soldered to wire in preference to any fancy powder measures,even tho i was given a Lyman in the hope I might modernize.I do have a scale now,a 1970s Redding,also given to me........And Trail Boss will be good in your 308 .

[dverna]

Buy good used equipment instead of so-so new.

Start with a decent press. It will last a lifetime.

I still have the beam scale I started with over 45 years ago but rarely use it. But I would never get rid of it. It will always work and be accurate if for some reason the digital scale does not.

[Green Frog]

The gun(s) for which you wish to be reload as well as the intended use of the ammo actually set the base line for what minimum amount of equipment you need. Before you reject the Lee “Whack-a-Mole” setup out of hand, remember that 19th Century shooters from buffalo hunters on down did their loading on this type of equipment. They’re still around because they work.

If cost is your primary concern, the Lee hand press is cheapest, both in purchase price and in quality. If you are simply trying to save space, Randy Buchanan’s hand press is a much nicer solution to the same challenge... or you might get lucky and find the now-discontinued HDS Compac Press which was similar to Randy’s. Both of these have the desirable ability to change calibers with the purchase of a different set of dies and a shell holder.

If you want the smallest package, you can spend the money (or search time) to get set up with a Lyman or Ideal 310 Tool, but they do not full length resize, so you’ll have to have dedicated brass for each gun. Ideal made a series of push in sizers to address this, but new ones haven’t been made for 40 years or so. This system has a certain nostalgic attraction but ultimately it will be pretty costly in initial setup, and any but the most common calibers will be a challenge to acquire.

Reread my first sentence in this post, then it may be possible to give you a more definitive answer.

Froggie

[beemer]

Don't forget some way to trim cases, the little Lee hand trimmer tools work but are slow. Rifle cases will need trimming, I trim pistol cases to make the crimp uniform.

Electronic scales are fine but I will not be without a decent set of beam scales, there is little to go wrong with them.

A decent used cast iron press should not be overlooked. A case trimmer and a set of scales of good quality will be a one time investment. These are the things everything else revolves around. The rest can be added as things progress.

Dave

Dave

[JBinMN]

IMO, take the time to spend the $$, ( usually $20.00 or less) and buy a up to date Reloading Manual. Most of the answers to your questions can be found there about what components you should have, and then it is a matter of your finding & choosing which brand, price or age(if ya trade) of components/tools ya wish to use.

I did not see how much you are wanting to spend, so I would suggest some research before making your decision, even with the answers ya see here. Slow decisions that will last a lifetime if ya take care of the gear.


I would suggest the KISS method. "Keep It Simple Stupid" or "Keep It Stupid Simple", and just research first and then get the things ya need, based on what ya have to spend & what ya wish to accomplish. Then you can always, down the road into the future, either sell or trade the "starter" gear you have began with & move on to other, perhaps more complicated & expensive gear & even onto "specialty" gear that you would not need for simple reloading/casting.

Read & research here on the CB/GL forum. Lots of answers to your questions have already been addressed.

So, as I suggested, get an up to date manual & read the beginning chapters & in it there will be the things you would need to get to start in the "craft" of casting/reloading.

P.S. - No matter what ya buy or trade for, there is always gonna be someone who puts it down for some reason or other & there will always be those who tell ya the merits of the same piece of gear. Try to get the best you can afford, and you can always work up from there if ya stay in the game.


G'Luck!

[MostlyLeverGuns]

I used a single burner Coleman gas stove with a Lyman dipper and cast iron pot for casting (in a college dorm room - long ago). Still works well. Casting on top of the gas stove in the kitchen can work for some. A press that uses 7/8x14 standard is preferred, though a Lyman 310 works well and is still one of the best for primer seating. The Lee 'Ram?' Primer that fits in a standard press also is a decent primer seating tool. The Lee 'Breech Lock' Presses save a lot of screwing dies in and out of single die presses. If money is a serious constraint, Lee products work very well. If it is space or portability - the Lee Hand Press, Lyman 310, other compact portable presses are out there. A mechanical beam scale should be part of the set-up, if just to check your Lee Dippers. I still use Lee Dippers on occasion and I have 'lots of stuff' accumulated after 50+ years. One of the Lee Lead Melters may be as cheap as setting up for a cast iron pot over a flame. For pouring molten lead into a mold do not bother with the LEE dipper, use a Lyman Dipper or the RCBS Dipper, a dipper with a spout that can be placed in the sprue hole will save much frustration and spilled lead. Many experience casters still use a dipper for casting. Case trimming may or may not be needed. Seldom for handguns, before you start trimming a way to measure is needed. The Lee case trimmer does trim to a standard set length without requiring a way to measure case length. Most rifle chambers are very generous in case length when measured.

[country gent]

You will want a reloading press dies for each caliber you want to reload, a scales either mechanical or digital, a loading block. a means of priming on the press or off. A small reloaders funnel is handy also. Reloading is very basic process.
You will use the press to size and decap the fired brass in the first step. To expand ( pistol rounds or cast bullet rifle) again the press is used, then to seat bullets. A dipper can be made or a set of lees purchased to drop powder charges into cases. If you want to trickle charges the digital scales may not be best for you as they have some "lag" when trickling. A mechanical may be better for trickling. A means of trimming and deburring cases is a must.
Last is a heavy table or bench to mount everything on. Press and such can be mounted on a 2 X 8 12"-16" long. This can then be c-clamped to a table, or a dedicated bench can be made and press and mounted tools bolted to it. Some portable work benches do a good service here also.
I agree that the first purchase should be a good reloading manual. Read this once better twice. Look at reloading presses and handle them if you can see what feels right. Same with scales and other equipment. One handy item for trickling powder is the used slushy straws little spoon end ( clean it good and dry) you can pick up a small amount of powder and tap it in a kernel at a time with one.
Best is if you can find a reloader and get him to mentor you starting out.

[Wayne Smith]

I question if you are intending the simplest or the cheapest. The simplest you have already ruled out - the Lee wack-a-mole and dippers. Lots of good ammo have been loaded with them. If you are going simplest and portable after that Randy's Buchannan press is the most portable and solidest press going for multiple caliber use. Unless you buy current Lyman 310 tools this is your currently available choice. Other than that it is one of the mounted presses - and the Lee Cast Iron press appears to be the current champion of those.

Simplest powder handling tools remains the scoop, you can make your own but you will need a scale to verify your scoop loads. Thus you are looking at the RCBS 510 or similar if it is still made. If you want to weigh boolits you want an electronic scale as well, but that may be a regular household tool as well. I still don't trust them for measuring powder.

If you buy Randy's tool it does not do primer seating, unless you get a ram prime, and I think all makers make a ram prime die. It is probably the most sensitive common way to prime, anyway.

A set of dies, either Lyman 310 if you decide to go that way, or standard if you buy a press, for each caliber and shell holder for each caliber is necessary.

For brass handling - a trimmer for rifle brass is necessary, the Lee is the simplest and can be automated. Most pistol brass does not need trimming.

If you buy bullets or boolits that is all you need. If you want to cast it's another complete hobby and process in its own. If you are not reloading now I suggest you learn one thing at a time.

[Bent Ramrod]

+1 on the advice that a manual should be your first purchase. Probably the latest Cast Bullet Handbook would do for starters.

I am also puzzled by the statement you want the cheapest/you don’t want a Lee Loader. It might be illuminating if you gave us your maximum cash outlay so we’d have some idea of where you are at.

If you’re strictly subsonic, a set of Lee dippers (and the chart) would allow you to avoid buying a scale. Subsonic loads would mean starting at the minimum manual recommendations for powder charges, and then experimenting with smaller dippers until you get something that exits the barrel subsonically. Look up and read about the SEE phenomenon so you don’t get in trouble there.

Get a Lee 10-lb pot, with temperature adjuster, a Lee mould of the approximate weight you want, a Lyman or RCBS ladle, and a few sticks of Alox/beeswax lube. Go to Goodwill and get two pots, one with a flat bottom that fits halfway into the other one. You use this setup as a double boiler on your kitchen stove for pan lubing your boolits. There’s a bunch of Pan Lubing advice on this Forum. You can shoot your boolits as-cast, at least for starters.

You’ve already got the advice on setting up your empty shells for reloading. I have a ton of reloading stuff, all purchased used for steal to reasonable prices at Gun Shows. Good presses and dies last forever, if not abused.

Anyway, that is the minimum I can think of for producing projectiles to shoot. If you shoot much at all, you will quickly get tired of doing it this way, and start looking for equipment that will save you time and effort. And that will start to cost some money, though it will be worth it.

[OS OK]

Find yourself a seasoned caster/loader here on the forum that will volunteer the time to teach you firsthand at his bench. You could put your State on your avatar and you might find someone close to your location who will do that for you. Say that you have to drive 100 miles for several weekends to learn what you want...you will never look back on that experience with regret.
Most of us old brasstuffers get a particular satisfaction in teaching a serious Newbie.
As you learn, actually using the equipment you get the benefit of all his years of experience and will learn about all the different equipment that he has used to refine his process down to what he is using today.

In my mind, learning this craft is like learning to cook 'on-line'...you'll get much farther if you actually get in the kitchen.

[JimB..]

As Wayne Smith said above, reloading and casting are related but different hobbies. I suggest that you start by learning to reload first.

Contrary to many, I do not suggest buying a manual. There are several older versions that can be downloaded from the internet, get those and read the chapters on reloading, the process itself hasn’t changed. You’ll want current load data rather than what’s in an old manual; almost all new load data is available online.

Post up a location, someone will probably invite you over for some hands-on time. You can get the basics down in a few hours and walk away with some loaded ammo, but you could also spend days over weeks or months with a crusty old caster and pick up a lifetime’s worth of experience.

[mdi]

I would suggest the first purchase to be a copy of The ABCs of Reloading. The text will show you how to reload and what equipment is needed. When you ask this kind of question 99% of the answers will be about the tools the poster uses and/or suits his reloading needs. Not necessarily a bad thing just be aware it's mostly a personal choice.

I read the title and remembered how I got started; A Lee Loader, a 24" log, a yellow plastic mallet, 1 pound of Bullseye, 100 CCI primers, scrounged brass from the local police range and 250 generic lead bullets. I reloaded for over a year just replacing the primers and bullets when they ran out. Later after I got a single stage press, I used a balance beam scale up until about 2 years ago when I tried a digital scale, but I still prefer a beam scale (I can see the beam moving and centering rather than some numbers popping up in a display).

As for casting, many folks start with a stainless steel pot, a Coleman stove a mold, a ladle, and some scrap lead. Wax is an OK flux for cleaning and a plain old slotted spoon works well as a skimmer. I have used wheel weight alloy for some of my 357 and 44 Magnum loads up to approx. 1300 fps with no leading as the bullets were sized to fit the gun...

I'm a K.I.S.S. kinda guy and see no reason to jump into a new hobby buying everything I can think of connected to the hobby. I have not cared for kits and enjoyed buying tools/equipment as I needed them and researched each before I bought.

Go slow, double check everything, and most important have fun...

[texassako]

It is tough to beat the value of a Lee beech lock challenger kit for a beginner. I started casting with a little electric lead pot with a spout for $20, can't remember the name.

[dikman]

A cheap stainless steel saucepan from an op shop is fine for melting lead on a camping-type gas stove (did it for years making sinkers). As for wheel weights these days you have to be cautious as there's less lead ones and more zinc, iron etc. being used (zinc is the problem). Clip-on lead will be hard enough, but stick-on are usually pure lead so too soft for your needs.

[RED BEAR]

To Mr Smales comment on Lee junk I have been using a Lee classic press for almost forty years know and I can't count the tens of thousands of rounds loaded with it I will admit tighting the bolts once . as for scales actually prefer Lee scales as they are easier to use ( have Lyman rcbs and a couple digital). I have to agree with the fellow who said the Lee classic kit. Would be a good place to start. You can also use vinegar and salt to clean cases. I will say that I enjoy reloading and would do it regardless of any savings. But if you only shoot a small number of rounds. Then it will not pay for its self. But you can load ammo to your needs. Good luck and happy loading.

[Bear foot bowhunter]

Thanks guys for all the replys and info ill re read it when im cloaer to a computer .Rifle is a remington 700 sps tactical 1/12
My budget is kinda squat atm i think i could stretch and get the lee clasic breach lock . im from austailia and most reloading gear is kept forever . and the stuff that is sold is as dear or dearer than new ill go back through and check for enything else when im hime from work

[RED BEAR]

Howdie down under. Good luck and happy loading