Alright gentlemen. Let's please keep the thread on the rails. The thread was started about the Lipsey GP 100 production ending. Let's refocus.
Alright gentlemen. Let's please keep the thread on the rails. The thread was started about the Lipsey GP 100 production ending. Let's refocus.
yes it is starting it get real deep. I think they can still be had as Lipseys is still cataloging, so there may still be some in stock, and your right a 44 special in double action with the GP-100's strength don't exist at any price.
I have both the 3 and 5 inch GP100 44 Specials. I cannot get the trigger pivot pin out of the 5 inch, 3 inch is easy. A visit to the Ruger forum provided no help and I was told I didn't need to take it apart anyway. Should have asked here first. Is there a fix for this problem besides sending it back to Ruger?
Tony
If'n you old hens ain't skeered him off yet.... lets hear from Dusty Ed on his newest purchase and the quality of it upon arrival.
KE4GWE - - - - - - Colt 1860, it just feels right.
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Last edited by Three-Fifty-Seven; 04-28-2020 at 08:04 AM.
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Thanks for the information. I can't get it to move at all, and have already tried a plastic hammer. I haven't tried a brass punch yet but that is the next logical step.
Tony
This seemingly simple issue is exactly what caused my Lipsey GP .44 spec. problem.
I was able to remove it with a hardwood dowel sharpened in a pencil sharpener & then flatted to about an 1/8" end. An authoritative tap with a hammer using this should move the pin. A proper size brass punch will do the same thing.
There were other issues & I innocently requested that Ruger correct the size of the hammer pivot pin hole on the left side..........DON'T MAKE THAT MISTAKE!
They over reamed the hole & ruined the frame.
I'd suggest that you carefully remove a very slight amount of material from the last 1/8" of that pin by hand with fine emery paper a small amount at a time. You need a slight interference fit (believe me it's better tight that loose). After they over reamed the frame the pin would work itself out & after about 8-10 shots would be free of the cut-out on the right side of the frame & would rotate counter clockwise.
Henry
Yes I resembled the remark as did anyone else who owns Rugers that sought to have them either modified, tweaked, repaired, in short anyone who is not holding Ruger's feet to the fire is assumed to be part of the problem with their level of quality. I found it a bit peculiar that the post advising how Ruger owners should force Ruger to change their ways came from someone who doesn't own Rugers.
Without going any farther off topic of the OP I hope I have explained myself.
I don't have need of a 44 caliber DA revolver, if I did I think I would look for a S&W Model 69 rather than the 44Special GP 100. Why there are so many bad reviews of this gun doesn't have anything to do with the caliber OR the frame they chambered it to, it seemingly has to do with mistake after mistake at the Ruger engineering department.
Got a .22 .30 .32 .357 .38 .40 .41 .44 .45 .480 or .500 S&W cylinder that needs throats honed? 9mm, 10mm/40S&W, 45 ACP pistol barrel that won't "plunk" your handloads? 480 Ruger or 475 Linebaugh cylinder that needs the "step" reamed to 6° 30min chamfer? Click here to send me a PM You can also find me on Facebook Click Here.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |