Drilling Brass...

[BCB]

BCB, you might be able to make your pictured setup work, but not holding the case down on the thin tube part, but right up on the head, next to the rim. Seat that case down all the way. And add a bit of paper between wood and brass.

Oh, and where did you locate that special tap?

Ah, I see 'em on Amazon at a good price.

The tap came from a local tool shop. They stock just about everything you might need when it comes to that stuff. Nuts, bolts, specialty stuff, etc. They did have to order the tap...

BCB

[BCB]

O.K.

I did try the method of putting the casing between the 2 blocks of wood that I drilled to allow the brass to fit inbetween. I used CLP oil on the brass and then put the JB Weld around that to form the cavity of the correct size for the brass...

The problem--I can't get the brass out of the JB Weld!!!...

What should I use to allow the brass to not stick to the JB Weld?...

Making progress I think...

Thanks...BCB

[BCB]

CRUDE for the 1st try, but it did work…

I used the bits that were sharpened for brass, given to me by OldBearHair (Thanks again)…

I did pry the brass from between the blocks as I was not too concerned how it looked or if it even would serve the purpose I am attempting to achieve…

The one pic shows the 5/16 x 36 tap that I put into the drill press. I loosened the belts so I could turn the drill easily by hand. I put some light down pressure on the drill handle and tapped the brass…

The other pic shows the Hornady Overall Case Length gauge screwed into the tapped casing…

I think if I try a few of the other suggestions, say combined them a bit, I might be able to do the drilling and tapping and hopefully have the finished product enter a chamber and be used to indicate the length of the cartridge to the rifling/bore…

Thanks…BCB

[largom]

A little bit of rosin in your jig will help prevent the case from spinning. Get the rosin from a store that sells violins or online, crush it into a powder.

[country gent]

I use a couple 3 coats of paste wax or automotive wax. Lee sizing die wax also works good. JB weld is close to industrial ( commercial epoxy) in that it can bond thru light coats of oils and grease. The other is the release agents that come with bedding kits. You want something that's wax like dries and cant be dissolved or pushed out easily. The idea is the glue bonds to the release agent and not the piece, giving a true form and shape. I have used Pam cooking spray with some bedding agents with good results others not so good, With JB weld not good as it seems to bond thru it.

[OldBearHair]

Maybe Saran wrap as it is very thin. Then as Largom said "resin" will take up any space.

[David2011]

When I need good bits that make ROUND holes I buy them from Brownell's. The cutting edge can me modified easily and the bits are not expensive. Brownell's doesn't sell anything that doesn't meet their standards and I have never been disappointed with any of their bits or taps.

[akajun]

Take your resized and decamped case , remove the expander / decamping rod from the die , then jam the case into the die at the top of the presses stroke. Next slide the shell holder out of the ram and remove the die with the case in it from the press
Now go grip the die in the wood blocks and drill out the flash hole.
Return the die to the press, slip the shelholder on the rim and ram and extract the case
Now re install the expander plug and expand the neck. Btw you will now need to drill/ reamthe neck to .001 over bullet diameter.
If you insist on wood blocks, try adding some powdered rosin on the blocks.
You have a work holding problem not a tooling problem

[BCB]

Take your resized and decamped case , remove the expander / decamping rod from the die , then jam the case into the die at the top of the presses stroke. Next slide the shell holder out of the ram and remove the die with the case in it from the press
Now go grip the die in the wood blocks and drill out the flash hole.
Return the die to the press, slip the shelholder on the rim and ram and extract the case
Now re install the expander plug and expand the neck. Btw you will now need to drill/ reamthe neck to .001 over bullet diameter.
If you insist on wood blocks, try adding some powdered rosin on the blocks.
You have a work holding problem not a tooling problem

That's interesting. It appears there may be numerous ways to get this task completed...

I suppose a person could do the sizing and then try to expand the neck with an expander of 0.309" or 0.310" and see if a bullet/boolit will slide in and out of the case easily and still chamber...

This could save reaming the neck as that becomes another operation that I wouldn't have the inside neck reamer to do!!!...

Still a good thought...

Thanks...BCB