Removing a stuck lathe chuck ????

[abunaitoo]

Two lathes I'm trying to save.
Sheldon LWQU and Logan 927.
Having to take them apart to get them home.
I got the Sheldon home.
Working on the Logan now.
From what I've been told, they have not been used in at least 10 years. Looks like maybe more.
Only surface rust. Everything is coming apart without a problem..........Except the chucks.
With the little tools I had, I just couldn't get the off while still on the bed.
Took the head and chuck off together to get them home.
I've tried the impact gun without success.
Suggestions?????

[DougGuy]

Logan has a 1 1/2 x 8 threaded spindle. The backing plate should simply unscrew from the spindle. Don't use the back gears to lock the spindle it will only break off the teeth.





Also.. If you have it home now, why does the chuck have to come off? Can you not reassemble the lathe and leave the chuck on?

[Bent Ramrod]

I have an Atlas that had a stuck 3-jaw on it. I anointed the spindle joint with Kroil, chucked a piece of hexagonal stock in the chuck, put a long box wrench on the stock, rotated the chuck until the wrench was at a 45 degree angle, locked the back gears and hung my trusty anvil off the other end of the box wrench.

The setup was in the “unscrew” direction, of course. Every other day or so, I would tap the wrench lightly with a hammer handle, and drip in some more Kroil. Don’t bash the wrench when locked this way or you will lose gear teeth. Just a mild tapping to set up vibration.

Tubal Cain’s ideas are good, too.

The chuck came loose after five days. I came in to give the wrench its daily tapping, and the anvil sunk to the floor on the first one. Any other convenient weight, like a bucket of wheel weights, would work as well, of course.

[bstone5]

Might try the 50/50 mixture of acetone and automatic transmission fluid to penetrate to the threads on the chuck. Apply let set and reapply while trying to unscrew the chuck. May take a while but the acetone will carry the transmission fluid to the threads. The acetone evaporates leaving on the lube on the threads.

[country gent]

In a normal turning situation you are constantly tightening the chucks on the spindle. After years of turning and vibration they can be set tight on the tapered section. Some times a few interrupted cuts in reverse will help to loosen them up but be carefull as they spin fast off the spindle. Removing the chuck from the backer plate ( if it has one) a heavy bar can be bolted across it then a wood block on the ways and use the drive belt to hammer the bar on the block. If no backer plate then a piece of hex and wrench in place of the bar works also.

[abunaitoo]

I never use the back gear, or any of the gears, to lock the spindle. Don'y want to have to deal with broken gears.
I'd like to get the chuck off to make it lighter to move around. Also just because.
This Logan is much heavier than the Sheldon. I can carry the Sheldon. Not so much the Logan.
Haven't tried to remove the chuck from the Sheldon because it's light enough for me to carry.
The Logan may just be for parts. The cabinet is way to big, and heavy, for me to move.
I hate seeing good equipment going to waste.

[JimB..]

Lots of things to try first, but in the end you can always remove the chuck from the backplate and then cut the backplate off, removing the last of the threads with a pick. That said, I’d try the other suggestions first, I especially recommend significant steady pressure with lubrication and frequent tapping. Just be careful, cause if it’s not rusted on the threads, when it breaks free the weight will fall, of course the weight only needs to be an inch off the ground.

Good luck!

[abunaitoo]

Pictures
Attachment 208604Attachment 208605

[akajun]

Kroil it up, heat the chuck with a heat gun, not the spindle, make some cuts with the lathe running in reverse, use deep cuts but go slow and be quick to pull the carriage out of the way, it will come off.

Ive also seen where people have made a threaded cap that screws into the back of the spindle where the nut goes to use as a backing wrench they chucked a bolt in the chuck and used an impact wrench.
Also seen where people have used a strap wrench or oil filter wrench on the pulley surfaces with the impact gun.

[bob208]

I made a wrench. kind of like a action wrench that clamps on the tail of the spindle. the handle rest against the bench then stick a long bar in the chuck and then pull it to break it lose. there is no use of the gears at all.

[dkf]

On a stubborn chuck for a threaded spindle we always took at piece of round stock (around 1")and broke it loose by putting the rod crossways into the jaws. Leverage is your friend. Obviously you have to make sure you turning the right direction. If you do not want to uses the gear (and it doesn't have a good brake) you can get a strap wrench around the pulleys to hold the spindle stationary on most smaller older lathes. The strap wrench will hold on that big gear nicely.

For type L long taper spindle you loosen the locking collar and give a firm but not overly hard whack with a soft hammer on the side of the chuck to break it loose.

[wonderwolf]

On a stubborn chuck for a threaded spindle we always took at piece of round stock (around 1")and broke it loose by putting the rod crossways into the jaws. Leverage is your friend. Obviously you have to make sure you turning the right direction. If you do not want to uses the gear (and it doesn't have a good brake) you can get a strap wrench around the pulleys to hold the spindle stationary on most smaller older lathes. The strap wrench will hold on that big gear nicely.

For type L long taper spindle you loosen the locking collar and give a firm but not overly hard whack with a soft hammer on the side of the chuck to break it loose.

I've read of a similar technique in where somebody had hung a weight at the end of the length of rod (5-8x the length of rod to the diameter of the chuck) The rod and weight are parallel or slightly inclined to the ground, shoot the threads with keroseane or what have you and walk away. Come back the next day and with a soft mallet hammer around the chuck, hit again with oil and add some weight.

[Blanket]

Might try the 50/50 mixture of acetone and automatic transmission fluid to penetrate to the threads on the chuck. Apply let set and reapply while trying to unscrew the chuck. May take a while but the acetone will carry the transmission fluid to the threads. The acetone evaporates leaving on the lube on the threads.

This to start with for several days. Make an L shaped wrench with a hex to clamp in the chuck and a long handle. Make sure there are no set screws. Wrap a belt around the tail end of the spindle and secure to stop rotation. Smack the end of your long handle with a dead blow hammer. If it does not break free, repeat over days

[abunaitoo]

I tried heating it up today. Didn't budge.
I have a 11/16 allen wrench in the chuck.
Strap wrench on the main gear.
Have it standing up now. Hoping the PB will soak into the threads.
I'll ave to get a better strap wrench.
I'll keep at it. It's going to come off.

[Cap'n Morgan]

I'm a strong proponent of correctly applied brute force!

A single, firm blow with an impact wrench will often work wonders, especially if the offending nut is already under tension. If you use some sort of extended handle on the wrench, the stroke should be applied close to wrench head to prevent the elasticity in the handle soaking up the force of the blow.

[wonderwolf]

Time and force I think are still your friend here, curious to see how this goes.

[abunaitoo]

I strapped it to some 2x4 to keep it steady.
Only had a cheap plastic strap wrench.
Put the 11/16 allen in the chuck, and a pipe extension.
Strap wrench rubber belt broke.
I have to get a better strap wrench.
Have it standing on the chuck, soaking with PB Blaster.
Also have the Sheldon standing on the chuck soaking.
They will not defeat me. I will win. Both chucks will come off.

[W.R.Buchanan]

Is there a spindle lock pin? if so, engage it and put the Chuck Key in the key hole and yank on it. Prying on the jaws is a loser and will ruin them. Applying any leverage against the jaws will ruin them.

I used to use a large crescent Wrench on a Jaw until I was slapped and then shown the correct way to do it.

There has got to be a way to lock the spindle. Once done, use the chuck key.

If there is no Spindle Lock then stuff a wadded up rag between the gears and lock it that way. Then use the chuck key.

Typically Threaded Spindle Noses have a step that the chuck butts up against. When the chuck is spun on, it wedges pretty tight. This is probably where yours is locked onto. Never spin a chuck up to the step!

Randy

Randy

[skeettx]

watching this one
Mike

[abunaitoo]

Worked on it again today.
Tried the action wench, but just can't hold it firm enough. Head not attached to bed.
Decided to remove the chuck. I did mark it to put it back in the same place.
It made it so much easier to work with.
I made an angle flat head to remove the screws holding the front bearing in.
Hoping there was enough room for it to work.
It did and I got the whole shaft out.
Now I can hold the shaft in the press, put back the chuck, and hopefully remove the whole thing.
Bearing feels OK, but it doesn't look that great. I may replace it.
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