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Thread: Removing a stuck lathe chuck ????

  1. #21
    Boolit Master Idz's Avatar
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    Now that its in pieces you can try some thermal cycling by put the whole thing in the deep freeze. When its cold take it out and heat the faceplate and it might just break loose.

  2. #22
    Boolit Master 15meter's Avatar
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    Found this after you had removed the chuck, I have a 1 1/8" piece of hex stock that I mount in the chuck than use an air impact wrench with a socket on the hex stock. Take my chuck of my 9" South Bend regularly to use a collet chuck. The collet chuck works way better to hold brass/small stuff.

    It is radial impacts that I suspect are no harder on the bearings than a heavy interrupted cut is and the chuck is clamping the hex stock just the way it was designed to operate.

  3. #23
    Boolit Master
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    I tied an impact gun. Didn't work.
    That's how I take off the chuck on my other lathe.
    This one is really stuck.
    I'm going to cut two "V" blocks of wood to hold the shaft, mount it in the press, remount the chuck, use a pipe on the hex key, and hope it comes off.

  4. #24
    Boolit Master
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    Liberal use of ATF / Acetone mix has amazing results. Keep at it over time and add torque / heat & it will let go, I'm sure.

  5. #25
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    PB Blaster really penetrates, I just had to separate 2 sliding steel tubes that rusted together on my satellite dish because I was remounting it out of the way. PB Blaster on the inner tube, stood it on end, 10 minutes later I was able to break it free.

  6. #26
    Boolit Bub Discus420's Avatar
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    get it hot I mean red hot and the longest breaker bar you can find ... 4 feet at least

  7. #27
    Super Moderator & Official Cast Boolits Sketch Artist


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    I was reading over your post and see you have tried heat. Something I have found to work and work well on several items. I heat the problem and then rapid cool it dropping in water or dumping water on it. If its held in place by rust it will release if its just tight it may work cross threaded will it will not work for that. You do not have to get it red hot to do this just hot enough fast cooling it makes it lets call it tremble since I do not know the correct word. That is what breaks the rust loose. You can always getting it hotter and try again so I would not get it no hotter then I had to to avoid any warping.
    Reloading to save money I am sure the saving is going to start soon

  8. #28
    Boolit Master jmorris's Avatar
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    When your pressing, heating and cooling, maybe even beating, just remember it is a precision part. No reason to “fix” it if it’s not going to be as good as it is right now or before you started.

    Not to mention, it looks like you goal of simply getting the chuck off was accomplished.

  9. #29
    Boolit Master
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    Didn't go to the range today, so I worked on the stuck chuck.
    Made some "V" blocks to hold the shaft.
    Tired to hold it in the press, but the press won't hold pressure.
    What next
    Now I have to find out what's wrong with the press.
    It's a big Nugier H40-14 press.
    Anyone have any experience with these ????
    Last edited by abunaitoo; 12-10-2017 at 10:47 PM.

  10. #30
    Boolit Master jmorris's Avatar
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    How about something simple, like a barrel vise?

    If your press is one of the air over hydraulic H presses, there are a number of things that can be wrong with it. Press problems are almost alway seal related and when one goes, others are sure to follow. See if you can get a “kit” and change them all.

  11. #31
    Boolit Master
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    I have a barrel vise, but the vise is not mounter on something solid.
    I normally mount it in the press to hold it.
    It's not air assisted. Just a simple hand pump.
    I'm hoping that if I can just get the air out, it will work again.
    Never gave me problems before. But haven't used it in a while.

  12. #32
    Boolit Master

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    Patience is all that's required. Keep spraying it with your favorite release agent and wait. I dismantled an Atlas 7b shaper a while back. The cross rails had grown together with the table. It took a little better than a year before it had enough time for the lubricant to work. I would "try" to break it free every couple days and lube it up and wander off to find something else to do and one day, after a couple taps, it moved and I had it off in a few minutes. Old lubricants/cutting oil act just like "Loctite" when they get a chance to set. You need to dissolve them and it takes time. Stay with it and you'll get it.
    Before you embark on a journey of revenge, dig two graves.

    ― Confucius

  13. #33
    Boolit Master
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    Got a call today from someone who wants to get rid of a lathe.
    Said it's a old Sheldon.
    Going to look at it tomorrow.
    Running out of room for all these things, but I just hate to see them go to the dump.

  14. #34
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    The best penetrating oil that I've ever used is GIBBS.

  15. #35
    Boolit Master jmorris's Avatar
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    I have a barrel vise, but the vise is not mounter on something solid.
    Have a vehicle with a 2” receiver? That, some 2” box tube and a welder and you have something that won’t move, until you want to move it.

  16. #36
    Boolit Buddy MaLar's Avatar
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    Heating and quenching may warp the precision parts of your machine. May end up machining the backplate off and making a new one. Or buying something like this and machining it to fit.
    http://www.grizzly.com/products/6-1-...ce=grizzly.com
    Do not confuse my being polite for weakness.
    Using Ubuntu 14.04 and 18.04

  17. #37
    Boolit Master
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    Don't want to heat it up to much.
    Don't want to damage the bearing or warp the backing plate.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check