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Thread: Star sizer and bullet tip

  1. #1
    Boolit Master
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    Star sizer and bullet tip

    Question for you all regarding my setup. Is there a way you all are using to reduce the next bullet, when inserted and sized, to reduce the chance of flattening the tip? I have tried both way but nose first will mean the bullet will flatten a bit while being processed and base first, the opposite as the base of the new bullet serves as the pressure point?

    On my 312 punch, I do have a concave (if you will) top punch which does protect the tip while that one is being processed when seating a gas check.

    Thanks and I hope I properly described my "issue". It's simply a bit annoying but not causing any functionality issue.

  2. #2
    Boolit Master
    labradigger1's Avatar
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    Stars are intended to size nose first.
    I size pointed boolits by running one down in then a smaller diameter boolit next followed by a unsized boolit and so forth. Smaller diameter boolit offers no resistance and pushes the sized boolit through. Production is affected immensely but I only have one pointed mold (311334).
    I've been wanting to try a longer punch to see if it will push each boolit clear through in one pass.
    Life is so much better with dogs!

  3. #3
    Boolit Master
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    To size in one complete pass will have to take into consideration the length of the stroke on the punch. That is not likely something you can easily adjust. Perhaps a very short pointed bullet, but not a long pointed bullet would work. For that you probably should consider the Lee push through sizer, mounted in an upside down press.

  4. #4
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    Actually, the original Star Sizers were intended to size and lube base first. The owners of the Star Company resisted any attempts to size nose first while they owned the company. It was John Paul Jones, a distributor for Star, who pioneered nose first sizing.

    With that said, the further you can push your bullet into the die, and still get complete fill out in the lube grooves, the less resistance there will be when the next bullet enters the die. You can't really use a nose punch long enough to push the bullet all the way through and still get lube into the grooves, since it's the last bit of travel of the handle that opens the lube valve. If the punch pushed the bullet clear, then no lube would get into the grooves.

    Hope this helps.

    Fred
    After a shooting spree, they always want to take the guns away from the people who didn't do it. - William S. Burroughs.

  5. #5
    Boolit Master
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    I am not nearly as concerned about my 9mm boolits as I am with my 7.62x54 and 30-06. 50 rifle bullets will last me a while so my first inclination of sizing 1 bullet then ejecting with a dedicated spacer then repeat may be the simplest answer for me.

    Dusty, your idea of a longer punch is worth considering.

  6. #6
    Boolit Master
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    Fred, have you had any issues with the tip of rifle bullets slightly deforming by the pressure of the subsequent one or am I over thinking this? Maybe I simply need to add a bit of linotype to my mix.

  7. #7
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    plus1hdcp,

    I don't size rifle bullets in my Star Machines. For those, I prefer one of my Saeco machines. I'm fortunate in that I've been able to pick up almost every brand of sizer over the years at good prices, so I've got the ability to change to whatever machine works best. I use my Stars for all my handgun bullets, though.

    Hope this helps.

    Fred
    After a shooting spree, they always want to take the guns away from the people who didn't do it. - William S. Burroughs.

  8. #8
    Boolit Master
    labradigger1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ReloaderFred View Post
    Actually, the original Star Sizers were intended to size and lube base first. The owners of the Star Company resisted any attempts to size nose first while they owned the company. It was John Paul Jones, a distributor for Star, who pioneered nose first sizing.

    With that said, the further you can push your bullet into the die, and still get complete fill out in the lube grooves, the less resistance there will be when the next bullet enters the die. You can't really use a nose punch long enough to push the bullet all the way through and still get lube into the grooves, since it's the last bit of travel of the handle that opens the lube valve. If the punch pushed the bullet clear, then no lube would get into the grooves.

    Hope this helps.

    Fred

    If using powder coat, lube won't matter.
    Life is so much better with dogs!

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by labradigger1 View Post
    If using powder coat, lube won't matter.
    That's very true. I was thinking along the lines of how the Star was originally intended to work. I can only imagine what the original owners of Star would have thought of powder coating bullets! They were pretty traditional in their thinking.

    Hope this helps.

    Fred
    After a shooting spree, they always want to take the guns away from the people who didn't do it. - William S. Burroughs.

  10. #10
    Boolit Master
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    I haven't advanced to powder coating yet, perhaps one day.

  11. #11
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    it has it's uses.
    Lyman jumped on the bandwagon 4-5 years before it become a thing, and was waay ahead of the curve.

    for my pointy rifle bullets I made up some little chunks of rod about 1/2" long.
    I just follow up the previous bullet with one, open the drawer when they are gone and stick the magnet in there to get them back.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check