I use a air powered chisel. like used in body work to cut of quarter panels. have also used a hammer and chisel.
I use a air powered chisel. like used in body work to cut of quarter panels. have also used a hammer and chisel.
I'd feel a lot happier about the propane or weed burner than oxy-acetylene. The gentler flame allows at to be conducted into the mass of the lead, while e you can't avoid extreme local overheating with oxy-acetylene. Lead is a far worse conductor of heat than the steel it is normally used on.
I keep an old chain saw just for cutting lead.
hatchet or saw
Melting Stuff is FUN!Sent from my PC with a keyboard and camera on it with internet too.
Shooting stuff is even funner
L W Knight
Yes Dutch oven and Coleman stove or fish fryer
NRA Benefactor 2004 USAF RET 1971-95
It's going to depend upon the type of steel you are talking about and the temperature range in question. Some steels are better conductors of heat, but some are worse. In the below data, a higher number means that it is a better conductor. You could use an oxy-acetylene torch to just melt the lead, but you would probably need to keep moving it around so to not heat up any one small area too quickly. Using a oxy-fuel torch to cut steel is not simply just melting it. You are getting it to a certain temperature point and then adding extra oxygen in order to cause the steel to *burn*, not just melt.
https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/t...als-d_858.html
At 68F, 1.5% Carbon steel has a thermal conductivity of 21 BTUs/(hr-°F-ft).
At 752F, 1.5% Carbon steel has a thermal conductivity of 19 BTUs/(hr-°F-ft).
At 68F, Lead has a thermal conductivity of 20 BTUs/(hr-°F-ft).
At 527F, Lead has a thermal conductivity of 17.2 BTUs/(hr-°F-ft).
At 68F, pure Aluminum has a thermal conductivity of 118 BTUs/(hr-°F-ft).
At 68F, pure Copper has a thermal conductivity of 223 BTUs/(hr-°F-ft).
At 68F, stainless steel has a thermal conductivity of 7-26 BTUs/(hr-°F-ft).
I have found MANY of these at the scrap yard. 1$ a pound! Cut it to reasonable sizes with a HF dual cut rotary saw. Slices thru them like butter!
Put a tarp down to catch the "saw dust"!!!!!
Banger
Use large toothed hand saw and lubricate with oil ( wd40 worked well). Do not use small toothed saw as it will clog up. Just keep plenty of oil on the blade and it will go right through.
I've used a chop saw with a bit of wax on the blade to cut up a bunch of lead with no problems
Put a tarp in and up the sides of my truck bed, put saw as far 'up' into the bed and still comfortably operate it, wax blade (no power--those some more brave than I do it while running--think Three-Finger Jack is one)
don't push it hard--just easy cutting. save the scraps in the tarps as they can add up to a significant amount of weight.
I do use hearing protectors--most of my friends are into hearing aids, so far I'm still using OEM equipment
NRA Life
USPSA L1314
SASS Life 48747
RVN/Cambodia War Games, 2nd Place
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |