Snyders JerkyWidenersRepackboxLee Precision
RotoMetals2Reloading EverythingTitan ReloadingInline Fabrication
Load Data MidSouth Shooters Supply
Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 21 to 32 of 32

Thread: Cutting large chunks of soft lead.

  1. #21
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    gardners pa.
    Posts
    3,443
    I use a air powered chisel. like used in body work to cut of quarter panels. have also used a hammer and chisel.

  2. #22
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Posts
    4,900
    I'd feel a lot happier about the propane or weed burner than oxy-acetylene. The gentler flame allows at to be conducted into the mass of the lead, while e you can't avoid extreme local overheating with oxy-acetylene. Lead is a far worse conductor of heat than the steel it is normally used on.

  3. #23
    Banned








    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    munising Michigan
    Posts
    17,725
    I keep an old chain saw just for cutting lead.

  4. #24
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    barry s wales uk
    Posts
    2,655
    hatchet or saw

  5. #25
    Boolit Master
    lwknight's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Fort Worth, Texas where the west begins
    Posts
    3,418
    Quote Originally Posted by Ballistics in Scotland View Post
    I'd feel a lot happier about the propane or weed burner than oxy-acetylene. The gentler flame allows at to be conducted into the mass of the lead, while e you can't avoid extreme local overheating with oxy-acetylene. Lead is a far worse conductor of heat than the steel it is normally used on.
    It is not bad to overheat with the weed burner being naturally aspirated because as soon as it is hot enough to melt , it runs off into the catch container. You might actually reduce some oxides with the flame.
    Sent from my PC with a keyboard and camera on it with internet too.
    Melting Stuff is FUN!
    Shooting stuff is even funner

    L W Knight

  6. #26
    Boolit Master



    skeettx's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Amarillo, Texas
    Posts
    4,105
    Yes Dutch oven and Coleman stove or fish fryer
    NRA Benefactor 2004 USAF RET 1971-95

  7. #27
    Boolit Master



    NavyVet1959's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2014
    Location
    409 area code -- Texas, ya'll
    Posts
    3,775
    Quote Originally Posted by Ballistics in Scotland View Post
    I'd feel a lot happier about the propane or weed burner than oxy-acetylene. The gentler flame allows at to be conducted into the mass of the lead, while e you can't avoid extreme local overheating with oxy-acetylene. Lead is a far worse conductor of heat than the steel it is normally used on.
    It's going to depend upon the type of steel you are talking about and the temperature range in question. Some steels are better conductors of heat, but some are worse. In the below data, a higher number means that it is a better conductor. You could use an oxy-acetylene torch to just melt the lead, but you would probably need to keep moving it around so to not heat up any one small area too quickly. Using a oxy-fuel torch to cut steel is not simply just melting it. You are getting it to a certain temperature point and then adding extra oxygen in order to cause the steel to *burn*, not just melt.

    https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/t...als-d_858.html

    At 68F, 1.5% Carbon steel has a thermal conductivity of 21 BTUs/(hr-°F-ft).
    At 752F, 1.5% Carbon steel has a thermal conductivity of 19 BTUs/(hr-°F-ft).

    At 68F, Lead has a thermal conductivity of 20 BTUs/(hr-°F-ft).
    At 527F, Lead has a thermal conductivity of 17.2 BTUs/(hr-°F-ft).

    At 68F, pure Aluminum has a thermal conductivity of 118 BTUs/(hr-°F-ft).
    At 68F, pure Copper has a thermal conductivity of 223 BTUs/(hr-°F-ft).
    At 68F, stainless steel has a thermal conductivity of 7-26 BTUs/(hr-°F-ft).

  8. #28
    Boolit Grand Master
    bangerjim's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    out of here, wandering somewhere in the SW.
    Posts
    10,163
    I have found MANY of these at the scrap yard. 1$ a pound! Cut it to reasonable sizes with a HF dual cut rotary saw. Slices thru them like butter!
    Put a tarp down to catch the "saw dust"!!!!!

    Banger

  9. #29
    DOR RED BEAR's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    1 mile from chickahominy river ( swamp) central va
    Posts
    2,162
    Use large toothed hand saw and lubricate with oil ( wd40 worked well). Do not use small toothed saw as it will clog up. Just keep plenty of oil on the blade and it will go right through.

  10. #30
    Boolit Buddy dogdoc's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Alabama Gods land
    Posts
    282
    Quote Originally Posted by labradigger1 View Post
    Hydraulic wood splitter. No shavings, no mess, no problem.
    That’s what I do. Works great . Cut into small enough to fit in pot

  11. #31
    Boolit Master


    Walter Laich's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Cypress, Republic of Texas
    Posts
    3,495
    I've used a chop saw with a bit of wax on the blade to cut up a bunch of lead with no problems

    Put a tarp in and up the sides of my truck bed, put saw as far 'up' into the bed and still comfortably operate it, wax blade (no power--those some more brave than I do it while running--think Three-Finger Jack is one)

    don't push it hard--just easy cutting. save the scraps in the tarps as they can add up to a significant amount of weight.

    I do use hearing protectors--most of my friends are into hearing aids, so far I'm still using OEM equipment
    NRA Life
    USPSA L1314
    SASS Life 48747
    RVN/Cambodia War Games, 2nd Place

  12. #32
    Boolit Mold Blacktop's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2017
    Posts
    1
    Quote Originally Posted by bob208 View Post
    I use a air powered chisel. like used in body work to cut of quarter panels. have also used a hammer and chisel.
    ^ This is what I figured out after hatchet, ax, saw ect. Did 700 lbs of pipe. Air chisel made quick clean work of it.

    Also one of the reasons I'm here.

Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check