Is an amateur capable of changing barrels on a Mauser?

[Ballistics in Scotland]

We have seen a lot of extremely professional equipment and professional expertise. But very often what the amateur needs is the guerrilla warfare of gunsmithing - devising sneaky tricks to do the job in a way economical enough for one-time use, without damaging the gun.

[6bg6ga]

I'm going to say the average Joe here on this site isn't capable of changing a barrel. Even something as simple as a FAL barrel must be done correctly. Most here don't have the equipment to do the job correctly. I question the quality of the store bought barrel vices and tools because I have seen the vices slip simply because they weren't machined correctly. My vote is to take it to the expert that has the tools and experience and let them do the job and when they are done the gun is safe to shoot.

[Moleman-]

I'm a firm believer in "where there's a will there's a way". An action wrench can be made or bought and resold as can barrel vises. Headspace gauges and chamber reamers can be rented, but I feel you're better off just buying them and reselling them if you think you'll never use them again. Depending on what your local smith charges it may not be any cheaper for you to change the barrel. If it's something you want to do then research, come up with a plan, make/ acquire your tooling and go for it. Ballistics in Scotland hit upon a good point. Simply changing barrels to get a functional rifle isn't the same as trying to build an accurate or match type rifle which requires much more specialized tools and techniques. With no sights your barrel is going to be easier to install than one that must be clocked to match a different rifle.

Would you plan on making your action and barrel vises and if so what tools do you have at your disposal?

[country gent]

an informed amaturer that's read up and studied the process and "learned" how to can do it. The difference between this type amaturer and professional is the time they take to do the job. The amaturer is going to be checking and double checking his books and information following it step by step. The Pro will just run thru the steps knowing what to do. Most things with firearms are well documented with the procedures and step by step how to available> The amaturer just needs to look and read for them first before jumping in. Another thing to remember is years ago a lot of mausers springfields and others were rebarreled sporterized in garages by people who were reading the different books and magazines.

[Stockcarver]

an informed amaturer that's read up and studied the process and "learned" how to can do it. The difference between this type amaturer and professional is the time they take to do the job. The amaturer is going to be checking and double checking his books and information following it step by step. The Pro will just run thru the steps knowing what to do. Most things with firearms are well documented with the procedures and step by step how to available> The amaturer just needs to look and read for them first before jumping in. Another thing to remember is years ago a lot of mausers springfields and others were rebarreled sporterized in garages by people who were reading the different books and magazines.

Very true.

All pros were amateurs. And many of today's amateurs turn out better work than some pros.

I am neither. Just a retired 'ol machinist that enjoys playing in my backyard shop. I was fortunate enough to begin acquiring tools and machinery many years ago.

I learned threading and chambering by reading Brownells tips, Brownells Gunsmith Kinks books, American Rifleman "Gunsmithing Guide" and many other books.

[Ballistics in Scotland]

Use to have a list of "true Mausers" which are the Mausers of other countries that would swap parts with the original German Mauser. I remember one is the 1909 Argentine. A friend of mine has the actual manufacturing prints for the 1909 from Argentina. So this corresponds with the post right before this one that the barrel may not be an exact fit without any work.

The manufacturing print? It would be very interesting to know how they specify the angle or pitch of the helical locking surfaces.

[John Taylor]

I started off as an amateur but I had the chance to work for a couple gunsmiths along the way. Some barrels are easy to change but most military barrels are a bit tough to remove. There are quite a few gunsmiths that like to cut the barrel shoulder with the hope that it will come off easier. A good strong action wrench is a must. Holding the barrel can be a big problem. I have a large selection of barrel blocks made out of aluminum that I have made over the years. My barrel vice has a 20 ton jack so I can hold the barrels very tight. Even with this setup it sometimes takes a little heat or a big hammer. Some of the companies are using loctite on the barrel threads now, that's where the heat comes in.

[vzerone]

The manufacturing print? It would be very interesting to know how they specify the angle or pitch of the helical locking surfaces.

Yes the actual blueprints. He got them from an Argentine General. Ask the specific question you want to know and on what part. Next time I get in touch with him I'll ask him if I remember.

[Wolfer]

Even though Ive built several rifles I still consider myself a rank amateur. I am however a hillbilly who often thinks outside the box. My barrel vise and action wrench I copied from another hillbilly gunsmith and it's worked pretty well.

The vise is heavy angle iron welded into a rectangle. The inside dimension is about 6" wide by tall enough to hold a 4"x4" and an 8 ton jack. I bore a hole slightly smaller than the barrel through the oak block and saw it in half across the holes. A little powdered rosin in the grooves helps the bite.

My action wrench is a piece of 1/2" x 1-1/2" mild steel. About 1-1/4" of one end is bent at 90 deg. A little grinding on the edge lets it go into the lug recess and up against the barrel.
This has fit everything Ive used it on. Mauser, Remington, savage, ruger.

Military barrels will require all the 8 ton jack has to offer. Bigger would be better. It's what I have.
Minimum 3' cheater pipe on the wrench.

Ive never had a shop in my life but have built several accurate rifles on the tailgate of my truck. Where there is a will there is a way.

I have several books on the subject. Most are dog eared from reading and rereading. Weren't no internet when I started.

My point is don't be afraid to tackle this. I met lots of naysayers early on. I'm glad I didn't listen but I was careful and give everything lots of thought before I did it.
Woody

[skeettx]

Did the old barrel come off?

[HollowPoint]

The old barrel is useless so I don't care what damage I do to it...so my big pipe wrench, medium sledge and a good soaking in kroil should do it...no?

I redid both my Lee Enfield and my K31 and both of those barrels were on pretty darn tight. So much so that even with the barrels held tightly in the barrel vice I still couldn't get them to break loose. I had to use an additional length of galvanized metal fence post as a cheater bar to finally get them to break.

I know you can do it too. It's doing it for the first time that makes it seem like a daunting task sometimes. Kind of like sex but not really? No, not really.

HollowPoint

[john.k]

Im just a machinist who can do plumbing .My definition of a gunsmith is one who repairs expensive doubles,making parts where necessary.Backboring chokes and the like. Something as seemingly simple as repairing the forend latching on a O&U is beyond all but the best.I used to discard barrels,but anything ex military now has a value,so removal is carefully done.I use a 50ton shop press to hold barrel clamps.No bolts are required,and the weight of the press makes it immovable with the most force I have ever had to use.

[Texas by God]

Wolfer- we must be kin. I clamped a 43 Spanish 98 Mauser action onto the frame of a tandem disc out back and used a pipe wrench to install a 1935 Chilean 7mm barrel to it. I checked the headspace with beer can shims. Draw filed the wrench marks off the barrel and shot some decent groups. I reblued the barrel and dropped it in a sporter stock someone gave me and went hunting. After killing a deer with it, one of the hunting party offered $200 for it.
In 1981 200 was 200 so I took it.
The last I heard he was still using it despite owning much nicer rifles.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

[Wolfer]

Yes sir. Ive always had more want to than I had means.

[10x]

When I did my first surplus Mauser rebarreling job 17 years ago, I had a hard time getting the barrel off.
Before I made my own action wrench and barrel vise with bushing, I broke two bench vises.
If you don't care what happens to the old barrel, it can be gripped with a pipe wrench for removal.
The highest torque I have measured when removing an old rusty surplus barrel was 560 foot pounds.
While pulling the barrels from groups of Mausers, I would demonstrate before and after putting Kroil in the barrel receiver junction.
Everyone that watched my demonstration bought Kroil.

When a barrel is set tight.
A) an 8" (or larger) vice solidly mounted on a solid base. Any play or movement will thwart your attempt at removal.
B) hard lead blocks at least 3" long with a groove to match the barrel channel.
C) mount the barrel using the blocks and resin (Baseball pitchers resin) with the receiver as close to the vice as possible. Make sure the action wrench is slightly up from horizontal.
D) have an action wrench that fits the action with no play, you can shim bearing surfaces with copper or brass. A clamping action wrench will work better
E) Heat the receiver ring slightly with a propane torch - not hot enough to sizzle water but hot to the touch
F) After a few seconds of heating the receiver it does not take long to expand the ring - place your body weight on the action wrench
G) have a friend give the action wrench a short sharp tap with a 2 pound hammer -

If you have done everything right there will be no marks or rubs on either the barrel or the action. The barrel, if shot out or badly pitted, can be saved for that larger caliber wild cat you never realized you wanted to build. I have a couple of 8X57 barrell that may become 338 x 57 or 35x57 if I get the urge to learn how to rebore and rifle a barrel

I have only ever had one barrel NOT come out of the action when this method was used.

[10x]

I redid both my Lee Enfield and my K31 and both of those barrels were on pretty darn tight. So much so that even with the barrels held tightly in the barrel vice I still couldn't get them to break loose. I had to use an additional length of galvanized metal fence post as a cheater bar to finally get them to break.

I know you can do it too. It's doing it for the first time that makes it seem like a daunting task sometimes. Kind of like sex but not really? No, not really.

HollowPoint

A sharp tap with a heavy hammer on the action wrench can reduce the amount of leverage you need to apply.
Never force anything when you can use a bigger hammer.
Many blows from a small hammer will destroy an object that a big hammer will loosen with one blow.

[David2011]

In our gunsmithing classes we used a bar of steel about 2" x 18" to strike the handle of the action wrench. The students built sporting rifles based on Mauser actions so we had lots of them to rebarrel. The barrel vice was a Brownell's with aluminum inserts bolted to a very heavy table which was bolted to the floor. The barreled receiver was put in the vice with the handle pointing up and the bar of steel was swung like a baseball bat. The threads released on the first strike most of the time and even on the most stubborn yielded with a few tries. A two pound hammer would never have broken some of them free. Some that wouldn't give with body weight yielded so easily that you hardly felt it, swinging that heavy bar of steel. The solid impact made a huge difference.

[Speedo66]

Just read 3 pages. So???? lol

[AbitNutz]

I did get it off without much of a problem and then...the barrel was short chambered. So....I needed to vivist the gunsmith. The project was in need of someone with skills and and a lathe.

[David2011]

You don't need a lathe for a short chambered barrel. If you can snug the barrel up (it doesn't have to be farm tight) you can complete the job. It's probably only .050" short, easily cut with a finishing reamer, lots of good gutting oil and a "go" headspace gauge. You can rent the parts. Remove all of the parts from the bolt so it has no resistance to closing. The reamer can be turned with a 3/8" drive speed handle and appropriate 8 point socket. Cut, clean the chamber and reamer thoroughly, try and repeat until the bolt handle starts to engage the lugs with the go gauge in place. Once you get that far continue in very small increments and stop just as soon as the bolt will close all the way without feeling springiness as you close the bolt.

My test for perfect chambering is that I like to feel the shoulder of the loaded cartridge just contact the chamber as I close the bolt.