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Thread: From My Second Casting Session

  1. #21
    Boolit Grand Master OS OK's Avatar
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    Nice Jeff...see the ones that have a smooth sprew cut? You waited the right amount of time to cut the sprew.
    See the ones that are 'pitted' looking? You opened the sprew plate about 1 or 2 seconds too early.
    No big deal though. Can't complain about those casts!
    a m e r i c a n p r a v d a

    Be a Patriot . . . expose their lies!

    “In a time of deceit, telling the truth is a revolutionary act.” G. Orwell

  2. #22
    Boolit Master 308Jeff's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by OS OK View Post
    Nice Jeff...see the ones that have a smooth sprew cut? You waited the right amount of time to cut the sprew.
    See the ones that are 'pitted' looking? You opened the sprew plate about 1 or 2 seconds too early.
    No big deal though. Can't complain about those casts!
    Thanks, Charlie! Glad I posted the pic.

    I guess I was casting too hot. Thermometer only said 750, but even after waiting 6-8 seconds my sprews were breaking.

    Turn the heat down, or just wait a little longer?

  3. #23
    Boolit Master 308Jeff's Avatar
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    750 degrees is the "3" setting on my 4-20, BTW.

  4. #24
    Boolit Grand Master OS OK's Avatar
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    Since I got a PID I've set it to 715*F. It'll overshoot to 730*F. and drop below 690*F. when dropping sprue cuts back in the pot. I like this temp. range and I don't overheat my moulds...just a steady pace and sprue cuts 3 to 5 seconds after the sprue freezes. I'm flexible on the timing because I always examine the base of the cast before opening to see whether or not the mould filled out fully and that my cut was smooth. If they are smooth cut then my pace is fine.
    I used to try to keep the pot at 725*F. when I used the thermometer and adjusted the knob to maintain temp. BUT...when I'd get going at a good pace and forget to keep an eye on the thermometer, the pot would progressively empty (especially with a 6 cavity mould) and when I did look I'd be up 775*F. or higher at times!
    One little thing I do, do...is set the filled mould on the bottom of the Lee pot support for the cooling of the sprue. I think that helps regulate the mould temp. as the pace quickens because that big flat aluminum plate really sucks the temp. out of the base of the mould quickly.
    I have a good CD from the 50~60's cranking in the stereo and I think I turn into a machine...my mind wonders and drifts around with various thoughts and I sorta unconciously sit there and run through 20 lbs. of Pb before I realize I've done it...crazy huh?
    a m e r i c a n p r a v d a

    Be a Patriot . . . expose their lies!

    “In a time of deceit, telling the truth is a revolutionary act.” G. Orwell

  5. #25
    Boolit Master 308Jeff's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by OS OK View Post
    Since I got a PID I've set it to 715*F. It'll overshoot to 730*F. and drop below 690*F. when dropping sprue cuts back in the pot. I like this temp. range and I don't overheat my moulds...just a steady pace and sprue cuts 3 to 5 seconds after the sprue freezes. I'm flexible on the timing because I always examine the base of the cast before opening to see whether or not the mould filled out fully and that my cut was smooth. If they are smooth cut then my pace is fine.
    I used to try to keep the pot at 725*F. when I used the thermometer and adjusted the knob to maintain temp. BUT...when I'd get going at a good pace and forget to keep an eye on the thermometer, the pot would progressively empty (especially with a 6 cavity mould) and when I did look I'd be up 775*F. or higher at times!
    One little thing I do, do...is set the filled mould on the bottom of the Lee pot support for the cooling of the sprue. I think that helps regulate the mould temp. as the pace quickens because that big flat aluminum plate really sucks the temp. out of the base of the mould quickly.
    I have a good CD from the 50~60's cranking in the stereo and I think I turn into a machine...my mind wonders and drifts around with various thoughts and I sorta unconciously sit there and run through 20 lbs. of Pb before I realize I've done it...crazy huh?
    Thank you, Charlie.

    I definitely need to build a PID.

    Gotta say this, both the Lee 401-175-TC and TL452-230-2R 6 cav molds have worked flawlessly. Most of the time I don't even have to tap either one of them. Just a little tilt and shake and they fall right out. Very happy.

    ETA: Listening to music is a great idea. I know my reloading press operations seem to go much smoother and quicker with ear buds in and good tunes going.

  6. #26
    Boolit Grand Master OS OK's Avatar
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    Jeff, I resisted that dang PID since I first heard of it..."I'm old school! Don't want that newfangled stuff! Gotta good thermometer...baah humbug!"
    So...I finally come to my senses and horsetrade for a used PID and discover that my Dillon thermometer is reading low by 35*F. even after I calibrated it at 212*F. in a pot of boiling water...go figure.

    "Resistance is futile!"
    a m e r i c a n p r a v d a

    Be a Patriot . . . expose their lies!

    “In a time of deceit, telling the truth is a revolutionary act.” G. Orwell

  7. #27
    Boolit Grand Master

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    [QUOTE=308Jeff;4211455]How do they look?

    Good Job over all! Charlie offers good advice.

  8. #28
    Boolit Master bbogue1's Avatar
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    I have had my share of sculptures, too. It is true .. smelt in another pot, keep your pour pot clean. The screw on the top is subject to heat and as such will change adjustment so keep a screwdriver on hand and when the pot drips turn the screw clockwise a bit, grab the small sculpture and put it aside or into the pot and move on. I pour for a while and let my sprews and sculptures pile up till they are a nuisance then put my mold sprewplate down on the pot and use that time to toss everything back into the pot. When the PID says I am back up to temp my work area is clean and my mold is back to the appropriate temp.
    WOW, the bullets are much better than your first attempt. I see some round corner bases, otherwise they are really good. I would suggest to fill the cavity hole a bit more and cut your sprew a bit sooner. Quite possibly you need a bit more tin for fill out. Is this the whole batch? how many went back into the pot? Great job overall.

  9. #29
    Boolit Master bbogue1's Avatar
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    If money is an object I can help you assemble a $12 chinese PID, jst let me know.

  10. #30
    Boolit Master 308Jeff's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bbogue1 View Post
    I have had my share of sculptures, too. It is true .. smelt in another pot, keep your pour pot clean. The screw on the top is subject to heat and as such will change adjustment so keep a screwdriver on hand and when the pot drips turn the screw clockwise a bit, grab the small sculpture and put it aside or into the pot and move on. I pour for a while and let my sprews and sculptures pile up till they are a nuisance then put my mold sprewplate down on the pot and use that time to toss everything back into the pot. When the PID says I am back up to temp my work area is clean and my mold is back to the appropriate temp.
    WOW, the bullets are much better than your first attempt. I see some round corner bases, otherwise they are really good. I would suggest to fill the cavity hole a bit more and cut your sprew a bit sooner. Quite possibly you need a bit more tin for fill out. Is this the whole batch? how many went back into the pot? Great job overall.
    Thank you very much. No I ended up casting about 385. The first 2 pours went back, but the rest were good. Thank you!

    Quote Originally Posted by bbogue1 View Post
    If money is an object I can help you assemble a $12 chinese PID, jst let me know.
    Money isn't an object, just know-how and time. I'd gladly purchase one if anyone is on here is currently building/selling them.

  11. #31
    Boolit Master OldBearHair's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bbogue1 View Post
    If money is an object I can help you assemble a $12 chinese PID, jst let me know.
    Hey there bboque1, Tell us more about this please. I am interested in the parts, where to get them, then how to do. Sounds better than what I have been researching in the $70 bracket.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check