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Thread: Crude test for Pewter? Help Please.......

  1. #1
    Boolit Mold BZimm's Avatar
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    Crude test for Pewter? Help Please.......

    I would not normally barge in like this without loads of research, but I have an opportunity and I need some help.....

    I ran into a listing on Craigslist offering several pieces of Pewter just now, tableware and such. The fellow lives on my way home this evening, and we are agreeing to meet later on. How can I spot check this stuff to ensure it is in fact pewter? Without pissing him off ya know. I don't even cast bullets yet, but I've been gearing up to do just that. If it is pewter, what is a fair offer per pound?

    I own a turkey fryer, cast iron pots, ladles, and about 600 pounds of COWW and about 200 pounds of soft lead. I don't own any molds yet, but I will start with 38 caliber for 38spl and 357 sometime soon. I just know that pewter is handy for me to have and I should probably seize this opportunity if I can.

    Any advice? ???

    BZimm
    I am accountable for my actions....

  2. #2
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    RogerDat's Avatar
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    Pewter will be stamped Pewter or Zinn (tin in dutch or german) If it isn't stamped it isn't pewter. Pewtex is not pewter it is harder aluminum stuff. Pewter handles and any attachments will be soldered on, not screwed or riveted. Pewter is too soft to hold fasteners like those.

    If it doesn't say pewter it is a gamble, one we have all lost but try to lose on a small bet not an expensive pile.

    Pewter of any age will probably be bent a little here and there, it is soft, you can scratch with your thumbnail or bend easily with fingers.

    Price about $3 or less per pound, and watch out for candle sticks that are stamped in small letters on the bottom "weighted" those or really thin pewter filled with resin or glue to have weight.

    forks, knives are never pewter too soft unless really heavy duty like a serving ladle, spoons are sometimes but not common, see them on cream and sugar sets occasionally.
    Scrap.... because all the really pithy and emphatic four letter words were taken and we had to describe this source of casting material somehow so we added an "S" to what non casters and wives call what we collect.

    Kind of hard to claim to love America while one is hating half the Americans that disagree with you. One nation indivisible requires work.

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  3. #3
    Boolit Master

    rancher1913's Avatar
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    if its got a seam its not pewter. if it dents easily it might be pewter. if it says pewter it is pewter.

  4. #4
    Boolit Grand Master GhostHawk's Avatar
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    Look em over carefully in bright light. Modern pewter will say it is pewter and is 95% tin. And the other stuff won't hurt ya none.

    As mentioned above, soft, bendable when thin/flat. Low melt point, silverish color, if more blue and no hallmark it could be tin/lead and old.

    Last I checked tin price was around 10$ a pound, if you can get a pound for 2-5$ grab it. If they want more walk away and see if you can chew them down to reasonable.

    Sometimes the only way to really say "I won't pay that much" is to get in your car and start the engine.

    Something is worth what someone is willing to pay for it. But people often have mistaken idea's of value.

  5. #5
    Boolit Master
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    > If it isn't stamped it isn't pewter.

    The vast majority of the time, yes.
    As a beginner you can go by this rule and, except for rare circumstances, not get burned.
    However this is not absolute.
    I have found some pewter item that were not marked as pewter.

    Not to confuse the beginner, on this website I also have seen examples which were marked tin,
    I think in Italian or Spanish (Peralto?) along with an angel, which is a tin hallmark/touch-mark, which was fake,
    as the object was NOT tin. I think it was an Italian/Spanish fake, using cheap metal being passed off as more expensive Pewter.
    This is extremely rare, and I'm being pedantic here

    I think the simplest things to go by for field testing pewter are bend-ability and "sound".
    Tin is relatively weak in thin, sheet metal thicknesses, like a bowl or tankard.
    If you have a bowl/cup/tankard and can flex the rim/circumference significantly with mild hand pressure,
    it very likely is tin. If you can't, it's most likely some type of aluminum/zinc mixture,
    brass which was plated some silver-ish color, or stainless.
    I have found a couple rare instances of cups/sugar/creamers/trays which were very bendable and turned
    out to be a very soft annealed brass. These are the rate exceptions.

    The other factor, which I use the most, and won't get the thrift store employees ticked off at you,
    is the "sound". Lets say you have something like a bowl/goblet or any shape really.
    Grasp the object with one hand by the base or far edge.
    Then with your other hand, use your index finger to "flick" the top/far edge of the object, as in ringing a bell.
    "Flick" as in flicking a bug with your finger.
    The object will then "ring" like a bell.
    Actually if it is pewter it will make a "thunk" type sound, low and hollow.
    if it is aluminum/stainless steel/plated brass it will ring, high and true like a bell.

    After a while you will be able to tell pewter from aluminum by its color (much whiter) and weight (much lighter).

  6. #6
    Boolit Mold BZimm's Avatar
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    Well guys, my scale on the fly has always been a bag of sugar. I met the guy in a Burger King parking lot in Mackinaw City Michigan and brought home two bags of sugar for 35 bucks. I've been part of better deals and I've been part of much worse. Someday you'll have to teach me why I even want this stuff....

    Thank You for your prompt responses, I do appreciate it.

    BZimm
    I am accountable for my actions....

  7. #7
    Boolit Master


    dondiego's Avatar
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    I hope they were big bags of sugar.................what did sugar have to do with pewter??????

  8. #8
    Boolit Mold BZimm's Avatar
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    8 - 10 pounds.
    I am accountable for my actions....

  9. #9
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    wilton RWR and armatale are not pewter
    thinner material should be soft enough to bend by hand

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check