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Thread: 44-40 Stub job

  1. #21
    Boolit Master Jedman's Avatar
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    I prefer epoxy to solder. I have done many with it and it is forever ! I once tried to remove a liner that was epoxied in with heat, first with 2 propane torches and after that didn't work I put the barrel in a large hot campfire and got the whole barrel red hot. You would think at that point you could drive it out with a hammer and a large punch but no it would not budge.
    Being the outside barrel wasn't worth saving I finally set it up on the lathe and cut the he outer barrel off.
    Really there is not that much force on the barrel to stub joint and regular 2 part epoxy or acraglas will work fine.

    Jedman

  2. #22
    Boolit Master Texas by God's Avatar
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    How about JB Weld - the Old Farm favorite?

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  3. #23
    Boolit Master Jedman's Avatar
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    Yes that would work fine.
    Just don't use any of the 5 minute epoxy, I like to use the stuff with at least 30 minutes of working time.
    I don't want to be rushed when assembling the liner and barrel or stub because if something doesn't go right or you forget something there's no time to pull it apart and get it right.

    Jedman
    Last edited by Jedman; 01-06-2018 at 12:54 PM.

  4. #24
    Boolit Master Texas by God's Avatar
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    What about inner stub prep? Does it need to be roughed up a bit with sandpaper or just clean?
    My barrel stub is browned so I need to finish the exposed barrel to match before the epoxy.
    Thanks!

  5. #25
    Boolit Master Jedman's Avatar
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    Just very clean, You have many square inches of contact area between the barrel and stub once set up it will never move.

    Jedman

  6. #26
    Boolit Master map55b's Avatar
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    I use Loctite 680 to install barrel liners. Its very thin, has long working time and is very strong: http://www.loctite.tw/twc/content_da...GRADE680EN.pdf

    LOCTITEŽ 680 Retaining Compound is ahigh strength, high viscosity room temperature curing adhesive used to join fitted cylindrical parts. It fixtures in 10 minutes and provides a shear strength of 4,000 psi. Capable of filling diametral gaps up to 0.015 in. (0.38 mm). LOCTITE 680 allows relaxed machining tolerances, and replaces clamp rings, set screws, and snap rings. Gives best resistance to dynamic, axial and radial loads. Recommended for retaining shafts, gears, pulleys and similar cylindrical parts. NSF/ANSI 61 Certified. ABS Approved.

  7. #27
    Boolit Master Texas by God's Avatar
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    Thanks, Map!

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  8. #28
    Boolit Master

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    I have done more than a few stub jobs and prefer to thread the barrels in. Never had one come loose with a little loctite. When making doubles I make a nut that fills the chamber. Most of the time this requires a fine thread and may require making a tap. If it is done right you can't see the joint where the old barrel meets the new barrel after polish.

  9. #29
    Boolit Master Jedman's Avatar
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    John, I also agree with threading the barrel in to a stub if the stub is only approx 3" long but if I understood Texas by God's stub is much longer.
    I think he is making it to include the barrel that supports the forend.

    Jedman

  10. #30
    Boolit Master Texas by God's Avatar
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    That is correct, guys my "stub" stops at the front of the forend. I'm going to bevel the muzzle end of the stub to blend into the insert not unlike the stepdown on a Mauser military barrel.
    Thanks!

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  11. #31
    Boolit Master

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    If the fit is close enough Loctite will hold fine with a longer stub. I have a double I'm working on now that is a 16 gauge being made into an 8X72R. I cut the old barrels off at the forearm hanger so I wouldn't need to mess with it. I turned the barrels to match the OD at the cut and the ID of the 16 gauge then threaded them for nuts that fill the chambers. The barrels are tapered to match the flow of the contour and the joint can not be seen. Next step is to regulate the barrels.

  12. #32
    Boolit Master Texas by God's Avatar
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    I'll get back to this soon. Other projects have bumped it back.

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  13. #33
    Boolit Master

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    Quote Originally Posted by map55b View Post
    I use Loctite 680 to install barrel liners. Its very thin, has long working time and is very strong: http://www.loctite.tw/twc/content_da...GRADE680EN.pdf

    LOCTITEŽ 680 Retaining Compound is ahigh strength, high viscosity room temperature curing adhesive used to join fitted cylindrical parts. It fixtures in 10 minutes and provides a shear strength of 4,000 psi. Capable of filling diametral gaps up to 0.015 in. (0.38 mm). LOCTITE 680 allows relaxed machining tolerances, and replaces clamp rings, set screws, and snap rings. Gives best resistance to dynamic, axial and radial loads. Recommended for retaining shafts, gears, pulleys and similar cylindrical parts. NSF/ANSI 61 Certified. ABS Approved.
    There are some Loctite products that are every bit as strong as soft solder...and a lot easier to use than soft solder . I should say in an application like sleeving a hole...maybe not so much to hold on sight bases and stuff like that .

    Bill
    Last edited by Willbird; 01-19-2018 at 01:06 PM.
    Both ends WHAT a player

  14. #34
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    This winter I used a topper 12 ga and cut barrel in front of chamber and epoxied a 357 mag barrel I had laying here for years on. I was out of accra glass so I got some epoxy at Lowes and glued it in. Shoots great! A good gun for a gran child to hunt with. I redid the stock and raised it up to rifle stock appearence and cheek weld. Almost got the bolt coming out the heel of butt stock!
    Look twice, shoot once.

  15. #35
    Boolit Master
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    What is the simplest way to fix the extractor when you go from say 20 gauge to 38 special?
    Some people live and learn but I mostly just live

  16. #36
    Boolit Master Texas by God's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wolfer View Post
    What is the simplest way to fix the extractor when you go from say 20 gauge to 38 special?
    GPC Numrich should have .357 extractors, if not possibly an old .22 Jet. Of course you can adapt a .22 Hornet or .223 extractor to fit.

  17. #37
    Ive always just converted the extractor or ejector to the new cartridge by cutting a square slot down the face and sliver soldering in a tool steel insert. You just need to anneal the face of the factory ejector before you can cut it. Picture the factory extractor as a U and the new blank insert as a T and you have as much surface area as you can get solder in. Once it's cool fit it and file in a close radius and leave it in place when you cut the chamber.

  18. #38
    Boolit Master Texas by God's Avatar
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    Had enough spare moments to start browning the muzzle half to match the stub. I love a rainy day.

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  19. #39
    Boolit Master Jedman's Avatar
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    Funny, We had a rainy day here in OH yesterday and I was doing the same job on a rolling block barrel !
    I also use the Birchwood Casey browning as it is a easy and works well. Once I get it browned nice and oil it to stop the rusting process after a few days I clean it and rub the barrel down with Johnsons paste wax and it keeps the finish nice.

    Jedman

  20. #40
    Boolit Master Texas by God's Avatar
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    I agree Jedman. I'm going to brown my new to me T/C .54 ML because shiny dark blue looks......wrong(to me)! Lol, across the shop I was DuraCoating a few guns. Ironic.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check