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Thread: 44-40 Stub job

  1. #41
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    I'm going to rent the chambering reamer Monday. Time to buzz this flower for a while☺

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  2. #42
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    All this must come together eventually.

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  3. #43
    Boolit Master Jedman's Avatar
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    You probably already know about all the information on H&R's and help with assembly and other issues on the Graybeard H&R forums.
    What I don't see in your parts is a " slave pin " it is a 5/8" long by 3/16" dia. pin to help assemble the trigger group.
    Also if you have a ejector that will work for the 44-40 great, if you need to modify one heat the end red hot and let it cool slow to anneal it as they are quite hard and cut it along with the chamber at the same time with the reamer.
    You should have a great shooting rifle there !

    Jedman

  4. #44
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    Above the firing pin is a piece of brass bolt for a slave pin. There are 2 .410 ejectors also. The old tg has cracks so I got a replacement. I 've owned at least one Topper since my 14th birthday. A Topper and an 870 are my favorite shotgun battery. I don't like taking the Toppers apart but the trigger needed help as well as the trigger guard.

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  5. #45
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    Closer yet.

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  6. #46
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    Where could a guy go to findout how to do a stub job?

  7. #47
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    Searching stub job threads here and at Graybeard Outdoors is what I've been doing. If this one works out I'll do another for sure.

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  8. #48
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    Chamber is finished.

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  9. #49
    Boolit Buddy map55b's Avatar
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    Spiffy! Did you rent the reamer? How do you plan to head space it?

  10. #50
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    I rented the reamer from White Rock. Headspace will be set when the liner is epoxied in; at zero I assume. What are your thoughts? Should I place a shim for a little wiggle room?

  11. #51
    Boolit Master Jedman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Texas by God View Post
    I rented the reamer from White Rock. Headspace will be set when the liner is epoxied in; at zero I assume. What are your thoughts? Should I place a shim for a little wiggle room?
    Yes, I would use a piece of scotch tape or something thin on the brass. Be sure to coat everything with something like Johnsons paste wax or some release agent when you assemble it all to set up.

    Jedman

  12. #52
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    Rough cut with a dremel &cutoff wheel, filing to final depth for the extractor. Yes that is a piece of sand cloth to keep me honest.

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  13. #53
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    Did I scare you?

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  14. #54
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    Everything is in place while the epoxy cures.

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  15. #55
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    This project seem to really be coming together into something worth having! Looking good.

  16. #56
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    Looks good!



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  17. #57
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    Thanks gentlemen.

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  18. #58
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    Here it is. I still need to add sights and remove the recoil pad that was required when it was a 12 gauge. It test fired perfectly, I shortened the ejector spring so the flying brass won't go out of sight. I'm probably just going to use iron sights; any suggestions?

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  19. #59
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    That’s really awesome! I’m quite crafty, but I’m not sure I could pull that off. Did you use a mill, lathe, or any special tools a normal diy country boy wouldn’t have?


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  20. #60
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    I am blessed with a machinist brother who turned the barrel blank to my specs and rough chambered it on a lathe. The rest was done by me with hand tools. When I retire I hope to get a mill and a lathe- I have a teacher lined up! I just hope it's accurate- I've got to find out.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check