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Thread: 44-40 Stub job

  1. #21
    Boolit Master
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    I prefer epoxy to solder. I have done many with it and it is forever ! I once tried to remove a liner that was epoxied in with heat, first with 2 propane torches and after that didn't work I put the barrel in a large hot campfire and got the whole barrel red hot. You would think at that point you could drive it out with a hammer and a large punch but no it would not budge.
    Being the outside barrel wasn't worth saving I finally set it up on the lathe and cut the he outer barrel off.
    Really there is not that much force on the barrel to stub joint and regular 2 part epoxy or acraglas will work fine.

    Jedman

  2. #22
    Boolit Master Texas by God's Avatar
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    How about JB Weld - the Old Farm favorite?

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  3. #23
    Boolit Master
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    Yes that would work fine.
    Just don't use any of the 5 minute epoxy, I like to use the stuff with at least 30 minutes of working time.
    I don't want to be rushed when assembling the liner and barrel or stub because if something doesn't go right or you forget something there's no time to pull it apart and get it right.

    Jedman
    Last edited by Jedman; 01-06-2018 at 12:54 PM.

  4. #24
    Boolit Master Texas by God's Avatar
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    What about inner stub prep? Does it need to be roughed up a bit with sandpaper or just clean?
    My barrel stub is browned so I need to finish the exposed barrel to match before the epoxy.
    Thanks!

  5. #25
    Boolit Master
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    Just very clean, You have many square inches of contact area between the barrel and stub once set up it will never move.

    Jedman

  6. #26
    Boolit Master map55b's Avatar
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    I use Loctite 680 to install barrel liners. Its very thin, has long working time and is very strong: http://www.loctite.tw/twc/content_da...GRADE680EN.pdf

    LOCTITEŽ 680 Retaining Compound is ahigh strength, high viscosity room temperature curing adhesive used to join fitted cylindrical parts. It fixtures in 10 minutes and provides a shear strength of 4,000 psi. Capable of filling diametral gaps up to 0.015 in. (0.38 mm). LOCTITE 680 allows relaxed machining tolerances, and replaces clamp rings, set screws, and snap rings. Gives best resistance to dynamic, axial and radial loads. Recommended for retaining shafts, gears, pulleys and similar cylindrical parts. NSF/ANSI 61 Certified. ABS Approved.

  7. #27
    Boolit Master Texas by God's Avatar
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    Thanks, Map!

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  8. #28
    Boolit Master

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    I have done more than a few stub jobs and prefer to thread the barrels in. Never had one come loose with a little loctite. When making doubles I make a nut that fills the chamber. Most of the time this requires a fine thread and may require making a tap. If it is done right you can't see the joint where the old barrel meets the new barrel after polish.
    John Taylor, Taylor Machine, gunsmith

  9. #29
    Boolit Master
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    John, I also agree with threading the barrel in to a stub if the stub is only approx 3" long but if I understood Texas by God's stub is much longer.
    I think he is making it to include the barrel that supports the forend.

    Jedman

  10. #30
    Boolit Master Texas by God's Avatar
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    That is correct, guys my "stub" stops at the front of the forend. I'm going to bevel the muzzle end of the stub to blend into the insert not unlike the stepdown on a Mauser military barrel.
    Thanks!

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  11. #31
    Boolit Master

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    If the fit is close enough Loctite will hold fine with a longer stub. I have a double I'm working on now that is a 16 gauge being made into an 8X72R. I cut the old barrels off at the forearm hanger so I wouldn't need to mess with it. I turned the barrels to match the OD at the cut and the ID of the 16 gauge then threaded them for nuts that fill the chambers. The barrels are tapered to match the flow of the contour and the joint can not be seen. Next step is to regulate the barrels.
    John Taylor, Taylor Machine, gunsmith

  12. #32
    Boolit Master Texas by God's Avatar
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    I'll get back to this soon. Other projects have bumped it back.

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  13. #33
    I'm A Honcho!

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    Quote Originally Posted by map55b View Post
    I use Loctite 680 to install barrel liners. Its very thin, has long working time and is very strong: http://www.loctite.tw/twc/content_da...GRADE680EN.pdf

    LOCTITEŽ 680 Retaining Compound is ahigh strength, high viscosity room temperature curing adhesive used to join fitted cylindrical parts. It fixtures in 10 minutes and provides a shear strength of 4,000 psi. Capable of filling diametral gaps up to 0.015 in. (0.38 mm). LOCTITE 680 allows relaxed machining tolerances, and replaces clamp rings, set screws, and snap rings. Gives best resistance to dynamic, axial and radial loads. Recommended for retaining shafts, gears, pulleys and similar cylindrical parts. NSF/ANSI 61 Certified. ABS Approved.
    There are some Loctite products that are every bit as strong as soft solder...and a lot easier to use than soft solder . I should say in an application like sleeving a hole...maybe not so much to hold on sight bases and stuff like that .

    Bill
    Last edited by Willbird; 01-19-2018 at 01:06 PM.
    Both ends WHAT a player

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check