I just built a 3D printer.

[1066]

No problem - I'll sort it out tomorrow, getting on for midnight here.

PM sent Dikman:

[dikman]

Thanks 1066, appreciate it.
Tazza, I bought a Tevo Tarantula via ebay, from an Oz seller. They had a special offer of 10% off, so there wasn't any point buying it from China, but now they're offering 20% off!!! (about $279, I think). What started me off was a recent Aldi catalogue that had a small printer for $299. I did a bit of searching and found that they were a reputable model, but as they wouldn't be available for a while I started searching on ebay to see what was around. The Tevo looked good as it has an extruded aluminium frame, whereas many of the kits used plastic (perspex) frames. There's nothing wrong with this, as such, as many use it quite successfully, but the ally seemed the better way to go. As it turned out my local Aldi store still has theirs in stock, and if you just want a small printer that is all set to go they're probably a pretty good deal.

Be warned that if you don't have some mechanical nous (and preferably some basic understanding of electronics, to help with the connections) building your own could be an exercise in frustration!! The kit comes well packed, but the "instruction manual", while it looks nice, leaves a lot to be desired. There's also NO information about how to calibrate it, set it up or what the various functions are on the LCD - when I pointed this out I was told that you're expected to do what I did, find it all out on the 'net! There are, fortunately, some very good youtube videos about assembling the Tarantula. While the kit builds into a perfectly usable printer, it really needs a bit of work (all little things) to make it better. You can buy various printers already assembled and ready-to-go, of course, and at a significant price markup, but the beauty of building your own is that you really get to understand the principles and operation of these things.

If you have any questions feel free to ask.

[1066]

My printer is a Tevo Tarantula too, Ill second what Dikman said, if you're prepared to build it yourself and prepared to do a bit of tinkering you can produce decent prints for not much money.

I happy with a spanner in my hand but a complete dunce with CAD/Computers, however, I'm slowly making progress and enjoying the journey.

[Ballistics in Scotland]

3D printing for the amateur is in its infancy - compared with what it will be in the future. Some of the things we see made could easily be made at least as well by 20th century or even stone age techniques. But the people doing it are like those who struggled with Wright fliers, house brick-sized mobile phones and video phones the size of PCs.

I've had gun parts investment cast from my own wax models, including a stainless steel buttplate. The waxes used can be anything from hand-mouldable like modelling clay to hard and machinable, with shavings that won't melt into your clothes. The investment casting process also works well with plastics. I think any kind that will melt and burn away without leaving any more residue, mostly carbon, than wax. These models can be made by 3D printing, for which casting wax filaments do exist, and the end product will be about as durable as durable as metal can be.

You should consult your investment caster first, as there is a shrinkage factor from model to metal. My memory, now very imperfect, is that it was about 4% in the 17-4 stainless steel I used. It may not be entirely straightforward. For example does a large hole in something get bigger or smaller? I would think it is unlikely to be 4%.

[1066]

Of course you're right BiS. Early days and several different formats competing, just like the Beta/VHS or 8 track/cassette times. At the moment the layer process is cost effective for home use but the price of other formats is dropping quickly. Sintered nylon (SLS) machines are becoming affordable as the original patents run out and metal printing is coming on fast.

It's the future and has endless possibilities - Captain Kirk's replicator is well on the way.

[Tazza]

Thanks for the info. I may need to look into this a bit more, see if Santa feels generous. If not, i may have to buy myself a present from me to me

I know what end of a soldering iron gets hot, so hopefully that side will be under control. The CAD side, not so much, haven't done any of that stuff, hopefully it isn't too hard to pick up.

[dikman]

i may have to buy myself a present from me to me

I do that a lot!

[Tazza]

hehe it's the only way to get what you really want

[1066]

Just designed and printed this loading tray for .45 - 70 this afternoon.

[dikman]

Nice. I've made bits like that out of wood in the past, 'cos that's what I had handy, and while they work ok yours looks more professional.

I'm currently printing another primer catcher for my turret press - I started one yesterday but after a few layers its started lifting at two corners!!. Scrapped that one, thought about it and am trying again, this time I pre-heated the bed first (I don't normally use a heated bed with PLA). I've also re-aligned the bed carriage and now the nozzle is a fraction too close and occasionally scrapes on the print, bit more adjusting required after it's finished.

[Big Tom]

Here are a few of my designs: https://www.thingiverse.com/TheGerman/designs

Got a few Powerspec Ultra 3D (Flashforge Creator Pro clone) ones and overall am happy with them - easy fixes for whatever may go wrong and they have been running for almost 3 years 24x7 here. Sketchup Pro and Simplify3d with Netfabb and Meshlab are the software packages I use.

The only part I don't like about 3D printing/sharing designs is that people take the designs or copy them and try to make money with them, no matter what kind of license the design has been released under. But it is a great hobby and lots of fun seeing your own designs materialize in front of you...

[flashhole]

Is the material strong enough to do a push plunger that snaps into the press ram like a shell holder? The plunger needs to be strong enough to seat a primer in a shot shell. I'm modifying conventional shell holders (Lee #5) to work with 410 ga shot shells. The hole in the shell holder has to be enlarged to accept larger diameter shot shell primers. A Dremel with a 5/16 diameter grind stone works well to enlarge the hole. A custom sized push plunger comes up through the enlarged hole in the shell holder like a conventional primer stem comes up through a conventional shell holder.

[flashhole]

Just designed and printed this loading tray for .45 - 70 this afternoon.

Nicely done, I especially like the 45-70 label.

[Tazza]

That is very cool

OOH i like the primer tray funnel, i always loose primers when trying to drop them in my tray. I was going to try and find a funnel to hopefully do the job, but this would work so much better

[dikman]

Big Tom, I've already downloaded a couple of your designs for possible future use (didn't realise they were yours). As for people selling these things, unfortunately there will always be some like that! Me, I'm just grateful that people like you post this stuff as it means I can make useful stuff without having to worry about learning 3D design straight away. I've just printed out an inertial bullet puller ('cos I don't have one) that just needs a bit of fine tuning with files and sandpaper.

Flashhole, it might work but I reckon you'd need stronger filament than the commonly used PLA. Like many things, you won't know until you try it.

[Tazza]

You will need to post pictures and report back as to how the bullet puller goes, never thought you could print one, they take a pretty big beating.

[dikman]

The boolit puller.


The good news is it works, the bad news is it took a lot of time using drill bits, assorted files, a drum sander and a small ball cutter in a Dremel tool to reach that point! As it prints the inserts (for different calibres) are too big to fit into the holder. I think printing the holder maybe 10% bigger might fix that. Next problem is the inserts, I printed the .357 and .44 (for my .44-40) and no way would the cartridges fit in. Printing them bigger might help, although it would be trial-and-error to get the right size - but then the holder would have to be made bigger still!! On the bright side the inserts don't take long to print. Plus I'm impressed with just how tough PLA is once printed. I have no idea just how long this will stand up to use, but as it's something I don't use a lot it should be fine for my needs.

[Tazza]

That is very cool, shame it took so much work to clean it up to get it to work though. Does the material shrink much when cooled? I'd never think it would do so by 10% to get the parts to fit, wonder if it was just a hiccup from the person that drew it, but i'd think they would print it and know then correct the mistake......

[elmacgyver0]

Would it be possible to print a sabot around a lead core?
Know nothing about this but just tossing a perhaps stupid idea out there.

[1066]

Would it be possible to print a sabot around a lead core?
Know nothing about this but just tossing a perhaps stupid idea out there.

Yes. Although the core would need to be flat topped like a full wadcutter. You would print a parallel cup, when the print got to exactly the right height you would pause the print, drop in your core so it was flush with the surface then resume the print. You could continue the print in any shape you want. That perfect shotgun slug you have always dreamt about could be reality in about twenty minutes.