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Thread: Already ruined a mold

  1. #21
    Boolit Master


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    the bullet looks similar to mine when I get a new mold. Oil left over from the manufacturing process. reason I say this is the mold doesn't look like the flaw on the actual bullet
    I usually have 3-4 casting sessions like this till the oil is all gone. <this if I didn't do a good job of degreasing the mold the first time
    they shoot just fine even with this slight defect
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  2. #22
    Boolit Grand Master

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    Use wood or plastic if trying to get cold lead out of any mould. Aluminum of any kind is easy to damage with metal tools and Lee moulds are soft aluminum so even easier to damage.

    The advice to heat the mould until the lead starts to melt is good. Then use a popsicle stick or splinter of wood to scrape. Sometimes all you need to do is heat to the melting point of lead then wipe with a rag or paper towel.

    Don't overheat! A decent indicator is to heat until sprue plate lube is smoking. That is close to the melting temperature of lead. Don't heat too much past the melting temperature of lead and don't put a propane torch flame on one spot of the mould and leave it there as you could warp the mould either way. It is also possible that you could cause localized melting if too much heat is applied to one spot on the mould.

    Yes, get a hot plate and pre-heat the mould on the hot plate. Again, my temperature indicator is when the sprue plate lube just starts to smoke. The mould is actually a bit too hot then but it settles in after the first few casts which take some time for the sprue puddle to harden.

    Longbow

  3. #23
    Boolit Master Randy C's Avatar
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    I have been lucky, I had several years of reading and learning the tricks everybody here talks about before I did my first casting and Bernie at OLD WEST Bullet Moulds showed me the basics my first time. But I am always learning new tricks and keeping up on the fundamentals when I'm on this sight. Good Folks here. Do what they say and get back on the saddle you will enjoy this hobby. :}

  4. #24
    Boolit Master
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    I am a bit hard headed even though I was constantly told by members to pre heat before casting I put off the hot plate , and would constantly battle with getting the molds and sprue plate up to casting temp until I finely gave up and did the saw blade on the burner thing to try preheating before starting to cast, O my goodness what a difference it made , as others have pointed out try it . The poor fill out , wrinkles , hard to cut sprue all are a thing of the past .

  5. #25
    Boolit Grand Master bedbugbilly's Avatar
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    If the cavity is toast or you don't like the boolit it drops - or can't figure out a fix - you at least still have a single cavity mold to use. I know it drops your production in half on a double cavity but at least you can still cast with the single good cavity. It doesn't make you feel any better I know, but at least it was with an inexpensive Lee mold and not a Accurate or NOE, etc.

  6. #26
    Boolit Master Mauser48's Avatar
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    I tried again and I can't get any bullets to come out good. Now they look slightly out of round at the base. Also slag is constantly in the pot and attached to the ladle and if I'm not scooping it out the whole time it just keeps constantly forming. Not sure how I'm supposed to pour a decent bullet with a ladle.

  7. #27
    Boolit Grand Master


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    What I see is concave on the bullet? to me that means there is something inside the mold>lead, so heat it up on the stove and wipe it hard with a piece of burlap using your thumb to go around the TL bands. If you get most out keep casting with it and let the mold get HOT hoping it will take all the adhered lead with it. Ditch the pick around your molds, especially aluminum molds.
    Charter Member #148

  8. #28
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mauser48 View Post
    I tried again and I can't get any bullets to come out good. Now they look slightly out of round at the base. Also slag is constantly in the pot and attached to the ladle and if I'm not scooping it out the whole time it just keeps constantly forming. Not sure how I'm supposed to pour a decent bullet with a ladle.
    Would you mind telling us what alloy you are using that is producing slag constantly? If you are not putting clean alloy into the mold, you will never get it cleaned out and casting properly. Slag is usually something hard left from weld splatter, perhaps you mean dross? That can be soft or fluffy, and often gray and dusty with bits of lead mixed in. Correctly fluxing and reducing will help control that problem, unless you have other contamination in the casting pot.

  9. #29
    Boolit Master
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    ive only been on here a month,and I love it.I get some great laughs from some of the stuff here.This one is a classic.

  10. #30
    Boolit Grand Master In Remembrance
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    Mauser - for starters: from the looks of the bullet you posted the grease groove bands are not filled out. Means your mold and melt are not up to the proper temperature (say 700 -750). So heat the melt & mold up and stuck lead should melt out with a few cast bullets
    Regards
    John

  11. #31
    Boolit Master Mauser48's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by john.k View Post
    ive only been on here a month,and I love it.I get some great laughs from some of the stuff here.This one is a classic.
    You can own guns in your country?

  12. #32
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    It seems that almost every time a nooby has problems with casting it is because they are not running hot enough. Just remember this: Until your bullets come out frosty, you are not too hot. Even the frosty ones are ok to shoot. It just tells you to let it cool a little. Very not rocket science. I would say it is easier than making pancakes. People have an unreasonable fear of screwing up nowadays. That causes more screw ups than anything else. Be bold there noobs. Get into your head what to do and just do it.

  13. #33
    Boolit Master
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    I can't really help out with ladle pouring because I have only dabbled with ladle casting , but when I get my pot up to temp ,I add a little bee's wax or lube in the pot and it usually keeps the top of the melting lead smooth like a mirror - witch I think is important in casting with a ladle as well as keeping the ladle hot .

  14. #34
    Boolit Master



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    ive only been on here a month,and I love it.I get some great laughs from some of the stuff here.This one is a classic.
    Funny thing, I never get a giggle out of other peoples problems.
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  15. #35
    Boolit Grand Master

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    If you are running a high tin alloy that 'slag' that appears to hang from your ladle is oxidizing tin - and you may be running your melt too hot. Toss in some wax and light the smoke to reduce the oxide back into the melt.
    Wayne the Shrink

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  16. #36
    Boolit Master


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    Just wondering if Leementing might help smooth out the cavities. Basically that means spinning the boolits in the cavities with abrasive on them, lots of posts here on the subject. It might be worth a try but only after you’ve gotten the mold hot enough to be certain that there’s no lead stuck in the cavities.
    Sometimes life taps you on the shoulder and reminds you it's a one way street. Jim Morris

  17. #37
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    have to agree with runfive run. Way to much store is taken in perfect looking bullets. Ive seen some pretty ugly ones shoot just as good of groups at handgun ranges as perfect ones.
    Quote Originally Posted by runfiverun View Post
    run it anyway.
    it's a TL mold a roll or scrunch ain't gonna shoot no worse and no better.

  18. #38
    Boolit Master Mauser48's Avatar
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    Thanks for the help guys. I went at it again the other day and got some good pours. I made sure everything was real hot and just stayed at it for awhile. I have 100 rounds of 38 loaded up now! Still not digging the ladle though. My bench is a little low.

  19. #39
    Boolit Buddy

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    Invest in a lead thermometer and read about casting temps on this forum. This will cure many boolit problems. And later on, you might consider a PID temp controller for your pot.

  20. #40
    Boolit Master
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    I guess i am just simple.

    I hang the mold on top of the pot while the lead is melting.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check