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Thread: M1A or Garand???

  1. #21
    Boolit Grand Master

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    The CMP store also has criterion barrels in stock usually. Along with some years of military take offs for those restoring a garand. Not as much in the stores as there used to be now. I can remember when it was back in erie ordance a small office with a huge wharehouse. Filled out the order slip and waited for them to bring it up. Parts kits for various military guns, stocks, garands and tools. I got lucky after a match and got a timing block for the garand.

  2. #22
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    Remmy, I love my Garand but be advised, it is the most right hand friendly rifle that I have ever fired. If you are a south paw like me, you will be better off with an M1-A, IMO.

    As a young man, right out of the Marines, I fell in love with the NRA High Power course offered monthly at our club. The only military type of rifle available to me at the time was my Dad's Garand. As a tool and die apprentice with a young, growing family, I had very little extra money, so I ordered a Lyman 311291 mould and shot cast boolits until I was able to purchase my first M1A.

    I could never perform the mandatory reload required during the rapid fire stages, as a southpaw, so finally, I just concentrated on getting 8 Xs or 10 ring shots with the first clip and never reloaded. My scores of course went up when I started using my M1-A with it's ambi mag release!

    It's just something to think about if you're a southpaw... Semper Fi, Treetop
    "Treetop"
    Sgt. USMC
    1968-71

    "Accuracy has a suppressive power all by itself."
    Lt. Gen. George Flynn, USMC

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  3. #23
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    lefty o's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Treetop View Post
    Remmy, I love my Garand but be advised, it is the most right hand friendly rifle that I have ever fired. If you are a south paw like me, you will be better off with an M1-A, IMO.

    As a young man, right out of the Marines, I fell in love with the NRA High Power course offered monthly at our club. The only military type of rifle available to me at the time was my Dad's Garand. As a tool and die apprentice with a young, growing family, I had very little extra money, so I ordered a Lyman 311291 mould and shot cast boolits until I was able to purchase my first M1A.

    I could never perform the mandatory reload required during the rapid fire stages, as a southpaw, so finally, I just concentrated on getting 8 Xs or 10 ring shots with the first clip and never reloaded. My scores of course went up when I started using my M1-A with it's ambi mag release!

    It's just something to think about if you're a southpaw... Semper Fi, Treetop
    i just wear a hat, as i dont like the clip bouncing off my forehead. other than that i dont have any problems with it as a lefty.

  4. #24
    Boolit Grand Master In Remembrance
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    Interesting. Some out there say that you don't want to load 180 grain j-word bullets for the M1 Garand, I take it you just don't want to load boolits over 165 grains or so HOT for it? Certainly a good tool, the M1

  5. #25
    Boolit Grand Master

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    The standard bullets were the 168 grn match and special ball with the 173 grn bullet when I was competing. I believe the match loads were around 2650 fps. Performed great in most rifles. Battle ammo was a 150 grn fmj. Heavy bullets and or slower powders can and do bend op rods. Another issue is the heavy loads are hard on the Garands limited bedding area. The forged trigger guard helps hold the rifle tighter in the stock than the stamped ones do, do to less spring. Best it the Clint Fowler triple lug that's bolted in I mentioned above. It adds a rear lug and 2 side lugs adding bedding area and then the bolts 14 32 in back (under rear tang of trigger guard) and 2 10-48s on each side under the magazine plate. These lock the receiver in tight and the trigger guard only holds the trigger in when this is done.

  6. #26
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    I at one time bought into the "faster is better" mantra. What I found was that beating a rifle to death with high velocity and high pressure did not very often bring better results. Those really high chamber pressures usually have 2 result; burned throats/barrels and is hard on stocks unless they are properly glass bedded. I finally quite using a chronograph as a wishing well and started using the lower end loads and working up slowly until I found the accuracy started falling off with a bullet and powder combination. Then I stop right there. What I have found in the last 50+ years of shooting the 06 is that a 150 to 165 grain bullet traveling around 2700 fps will usually give the best accuracy and adding another 100 to 200 fps to the load does nothing for accuracy and the deer won't know the difference, he is dead anyway. If there is a "weakness" to the Garand, it is the OP rod. However it would hold up quite well thank you, if you don't try to make a magnum out of the 06 or use heavier than 165 grain bullets. I know, I know; there are people who use 180 grains bullets but I will not. I at one time used the 173 grain surplus GI bullets that were dirt cheap and they were some of the most accurate surplus bullets on the market for the Garand. But I kept the velocity around 2600 fps or slightly above and never tried heavy loads with it. Surprisingly, the 147 grainers designed for the M14 do quite well with my Garand. At one time OP Rods were plentiful and fairly low in price. No more. Find a new OP Rod (extremely hard to do) now and you had better have deep pockets. Anyone who owns a Garand now would do well to take good care of it, they are only going to get more scarce as time goes by and as owners continue to try to make them do things they weren't designed to do. I would not even think about using any other powders than 4895 or 4064 in a Garand. There may be others but I know these 2 and they are plenty good enough for me. I am not interested in try to "re-invent" the wheel. Yes, I do baby my equipment. just my experience and my opinions, james

  7. #27
    Boolit Master
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    Its been many years since I owned a Garand but I remember a few things about it compared to an M1A that belonged to a friend.

    The gas system of the Garand is easier to clean out, an important consideration if using cast boolits.
    The balance is perfect, for me anyway.
    The long sight radius is conducive to holding a fine bead on target.
    The fore end is more full and steady in the hand.
    GI issue Garand stock sets are of better quality wood.

    The Magazine of the M14/M1A gets in the way when carrying for any length of time.

    The Garand front hand guard makes for a secure grip if you like to set the rifle butt down leaning against something to be snatched up in a hurry. Important if you wish to be prepared to repel boarders.

    Also the Garand is an all around better looking rifle. Ian Hogg said it reminded him of a locomotive.

  8. #28
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    I own both the M1 and M1A, and having to choose a preference between the two would be very difficult. They are both more accurate than I can shoot. Either one will reach out there with authority and dependability. I recommend both!

  9. #29
    Boolit Master Digger's Avatar
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    With a twist on the M1 ...
    Once you understand the mechanics , very appealing ...
    Do not have access to a M1A but your thoughts are in the right camp .
    I have a version that everyone puts down but has proven to be very dependable and reliable and more accurate than I am.
    A "Tanker" , shorty by Arlington arms in 308 and it has been an education for sure , these days when I let others shoot a few rounds they want to take it home with them or at least want to be first on the list when the time comes.
    Have a 308 Ruger bolt , an AR-10 but after using these , pick up the Tanker and what a difference , very enjoyable with the military peep sights as it is my favorite of all three.
    After having learned what to look for with the "bent" op rod from using off the shelf factory loads , I went old school and straightened it out myself and it has performed perfectly since.
    A lot to be said for the Garand ....enjoy them while you can !!
    It is much easier to fool people ,
    than to convince them they have been fooled !

    If you can read this , thank a teacher ...
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  10. #30
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    I've been shooting both the M1 and the M14/M1A since '64. The Army let me shoot lots of both. I also have owned several of each. I now own 2 M1As and no M1s. Absolutely nothing "wrong" with the M1 that the M1A does "fix" IMHO.
    Larry Gibson

    “Deficient observation is merely a form of ignorance and responsible for the many morbid notions and foolish ideas prevailing.”
    ― Nikola Tesla

  11. #31
    Boolit Master
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    Some features of the M14 that improve its usefulness as a military rifle are academic for the civilian shooter and even detrimental in the case of the chrome lined bores which were proven to be just a tad less accurate than the unlined bore of the sniper rifles built on this action.

  12. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by Multigunner View Post
    Some features of the M14 that improve its usefulness as a military rifle are academic for the civilian shooter and even detrimental in the case of the chrome lined bores which were proven to be just a tad less accurate than the unlined bore of the sniper rifles built on this action.
    Very well put Multigunner.

    I ran across some gun forum one day and they were talking about the 223 WSSM burning out it's barrel like the old stories on the 220 Swift. Well happens Winchester got wind of it and got on the forum. They told them it is not true. Then Winchester said it was going to tell them something that they've never publicly released. They said that the bores on the 223 WSSM are chromed and also on Browning. That means it would be harder to burn their barrel out. Well the point I'm getting at is those 223 WSSM shoot some very small groups. I wonder if they have the capability to make chrone lined barrels as accurate as barrels that aren't chrome lined.

    I'm very surprised by this thread in the high percentage of shooter here prefer the M1 Garand over the M14/M1A. I have a sample of every U.S. military rifle starting from the Krag. So I have both the Garand and M1A and I like them both. I may favor the Garand because of it's history.

  13. #33
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    I'm going to toss my hat in the ring.
    I've had both (M1 & M1A) and they are both fine rifles.
    However, I'm a .308 guy so that pushes me towards the M14/M1A. I still have my M1A and it's never leaving.

    As for powder, it is 4895 for me and that's the end of that discussion.

    Both rifles are interesting, both are capable of fine work and both have their quirks.

  14. #34
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  15. #35
    Boolit Master
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    Is it sinful to LUST after another man's M-1 ?

  16. #36
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    For a brief but very informative video on the M1 Garand (including how to top off a partially used clip), watch What Ain't Necessarily So About the M1 Garand on YouTube. Yes, he's a Brit, and I find him rather entertaining.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o2idYNKWGm4
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  17. #37
    Boolit Master derek45's Avatar
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    Get the Garand.

    CMP Garands are real USGI combat weapons.





    I've had 2 M1A's also, and they are nice, but the Garand is more historical and fun to shoot.



    .


    NRA LIFE Member

    USPSA/IPSC

  18. #38
    Boolit Master
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    For those who prefer the 7.62X51/.308 there are purpose built Garands chambered for the NATO 7.62 and all it really requires to convert the Garand is a rebarrel or a chamber insert.
    In my opinion the .30-06 is the superior cartridge but the 7.62 is more commonly available these days and will continue to be manufactured for the foreseeable future.

  19. #39
    Boolit Master hicard's Avatar
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    I have both and I really like my M1A scout with the lightweight fiberglass camo stock. To me, it is lighter and thinner in the grip. I also prefer 308 over 30-06.
    This country has gone to hell but now there is hope for us.

  20. #40
    Boolit Grand Master

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    Very few are recommending the inserts from 30-06 to 308 now. They work but make for a very long "throat" as there is a big difference in the oal of the 2 cartridges. How true the insert goes in is another critical point. One that cocks or is off center has an affect on accuracy. Last is even locktited in place they have been known to pull out on extraction at times. Have seen it once during a rattle battle where the guy was shooting fast and good at 300 the kids picking up brass showed me some no neck 306s and one had the bushing on the neck shoulder. I have found brass at the local club that has that same no shoulder neck look.
    My garand is in 308 7.62 nato. I used a short chambered douglas 1-10 twist. medium heavy barrel Timed it up and cut the chamber to headspace. It was incredibly accurate before 6000 rds went down range thru it over the years. It was a quick easy conversion in reality. The barrel fitting and timing went quick, the chambering wasn't a problem and it feed and functioned from the get go with out any modifications needed. There is a block that sets into the front of the action to take up space but mine didn't need it and most don't.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check