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Thread: My latest ML experiment...

  1. #21
    Boolit Master
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    Click image for larger version. 

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ID:	210564The finished gun.

  2. #22
    Boolit Master taco650's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Col4570 View Post
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ID:	210564The finished gun.
    Thanks for the encouragement. I've got a long ways to go but I will get there eventually.

  3. #23
    Best of luck taco650! Looks like your off to a great start. Keeps us posted with you progress.
    The democracy will cease to exist when you take away from those who are willing to work and give to those who would not
    "Thomas Jefferson"

  4. #24
    Boolit Master taco650's Avatar
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    UPDATE:

    Decided to change direction a little after picking up a used T/C Hawken barrel on ebay. Finally got the barrel & tang inletted today. Now to drill the ramrod hole...

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  5. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by kens View Post
    Can you slice off a thin section of octagon barrel, and make a scraper from that?
    If you do that, I highly recommend taking a file or belt sander, and taking some metal off of each side. If you use the full dimension piece, you will end up with big gaps in the inletting. You need to sneak up on it.
    The solid soft lead bullet is undoubtably the best and most satisfactory expanding bullet that has ever been designed. It invariably mushrooms perfectly, and never breaks up. With the metal base that is essential for velocities of 2000 f.s. and upwards to protect the naked base, these metal-based soft lead bullets are splendid.
    John Taylor - "African Rifles and Cartridges"

    Forget everything you know about loading jacketed bullets. This is a whole new ball game!


  6. #26
    Boolit Master taco650's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kens View Post
    Can you slice off a thin section of octagon barrel, and make a scraper from that?
    Quote Originally Posted by waksupi View Post
    If you do that, I highly recommend taking a file or belt sander, and taking some metal off of each side. If you use the full dimension piece, you will end up with big gaps in the inletting. You need to sneak up on it.
    Yes, you can always take more off but you can't put it back on, a lesson I'm learning the hard way.

  7. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by taco650 View Post
    Yes, you can always take more off but you can't put it back on, a lesson I'm learning the hard way.
    Well, you CAN put it back on, by cutting and sanding filler stips to glue in. Much better to do it right the first time. The strips pretty much disappear on a finished gun.
    Something novice builders tend to do, is to keep removing the inletting black from the sides as they inlet. This will lead to gaps. As long as you are seeing contact points on the lower three flats, concentrate on those for making clearance. Always look very carefully at the sides before removing any wood, as barrels tend to tip being put in and removed, leaving false trails to follow. It's not a bad idea to use some lacquer thinner and remove any indicators, and then put the barrel in VERY carefully when it comes to the sides.

    For barrel inletting, I actually use chisels for 95% of the job. The only scraper I use is a 1/4" reshaped screwdriver, to remove indicator spots when getting nearly finished for final fit. I can go from plank to fully inlet swamped barrel in 6-8 hours.
    The solid soft lead bullet is undoubtably the best and most satisfactory expanding bullet that has ever been designed. It invariably mushrooms perfectly, and never breaks up. With the metal base that is essential for velocities of 2000 f.s. and upwards to protect the naked base, these metal-based soft lead bullets are splendid.
    John Taylor - "African Rifles and Cartridges"

    Forget everything you know about loading jacketed bullets. This is a whole new ball game!


  8. #28
    Boolit Master taco650's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by waksupi View Post
    Well, you CAN put it back on, by cutting and sanding filler stips to glue in. Much better to do it right the first time. The strips pretty much disappear on a finished gun.
    Something novice builders tend to do, is to keep removing the inletting black from the sides as they inlet. This will lead to gaps. As long as you are seeing contact points on the lower three flats, concentrate on those for making clearance. Always look very carefully at the sides before removing any wood, as barrels tend to tip being put in and removed, leaving false trails to follow. It's not a bad idea to use some lacquer thinner and remove any indicators, and then put the barrel in VERY carefully when it comes to the sides.

    For barrel inletting, I actually use chisels for 95% of the job. The only scraper I use is a 1/4" reshaped screwdriver, to remove indicator spots when getting nearly finished for final fit. I can go from plank to fully inlet swamped barrel in 6-8 hours.
    6-8 hours? I think I spent three times that on a straight octagon barrel LOL! I also still have to do a "filler strip" repair but that's only because my plank was cut too small to begin with, something I didn't realize at the beginning. Lessons learned...

  9. #29
    Boolit Grand Master

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    Take a spade bit and file to octagon a little under size. Heat and bend and sharpen and viola. I have a set made in different sizes and have used them for the last 30 years or so.

  10. #30
    Boolit Master taco650's Avatar
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    A question for those "in the know"...

    When figuring out the "drop" on a stock, where is it measured from and to?

  11. #31
    Boolit Master taco650's Avatar
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    I'm also trying to decide what kind of trigger to use. I like the idea of a simple, single trigger like a Bivens style but if I' going to stay in the Hawken vein, then a double set variety is more appropriate.

    What do the masses say?

  12. #32
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by taco650 View Post
    A question for those "in the know"...

    When figuring out the "drop" on a stock, where is it measured from and to?
    Forget book measuring - make the stock to suit YOUR hold

  13. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by indian joe View Post
    Forget book measuring - make the stock to suit YOUR hold

    This is the correct answer.
    The solid soft lead bullet is undoubtably the best and most satisfactory expanding bullet that has ever been designed. It invariably mushrooms perfectly, and never breaks up. With the metal base that is essential for velocities of 2000 f.s. and upwards to protect the naked base, these metal-based soft lead bullets are splendid.
    John Taylor - "African Rifles and Cartridges"

    Forget everything you know about loading jacketed bullets. This is a whole new ball game!


  14. #34
    Boolit Master taco650's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by waksupi View Post
    This is the correct answer.
    Don't worry, I'll be doing that. Just wanted some general guidelines because this is my first time down the road.

    Got my lock today, still need to decide on a trigger, get it and a few other small items. Lastly, just need some time to work on it LOL!

  15. #35
    Boolit Master taco650's Avatar
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    Latest progress...

    Latest progress

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    Got the ramrod hole drilled, barrel key slot cut & butt plate fitted. Starting to shape the stock but still need to get a few more parts. Those are a trigger, barrel key & escutions, nose cap & a few screws. TOW has all of it in stock right now but I don't have the $$$ just yet.

    Sorry about the rotated pics, not sure how that happened cuz they're oriented correctly on my tablet.

  16. #36
    Boolit Master taco650's Avatar
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    Starting to look like something, at least at the back end of the rifle...

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    Still a lot more to do so stay tuned!

  17. #37
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    Looking good

  18. #38
    Boolit Master taco650's Avatar
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    FYI, the screws holding the butt plate on are temporary substitutes until I can get the correct ones.

  19. #39
    Boolit Master taco650's Avatar
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    Ordered the last of the major parts for it tonight from TOW. Still need to get some screws for the butt plate and barrel wedge trim plate thingies... Anyway, once getting these I'll be able to make a firing rifle out of these parts I've been collecting.

    Finally got the lock installed although it didn't turn out like I wanted yet still works. Guess I've got a lot to learn about parts orientation and placement. It will work but won't look right but I've always been more interested in function than beauty so...

    Will try to post more pics when I can. I forget to take them while working on it, guess I'm more focused on getting the job done.

  20. #40
    Boolit Master
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    I use Poplar to build Patterns to make stocks on a duplicator.
    And sometimes, I slap a barrel and action into the Pattern ,then go out and shoot it.
    Sometimes to try out the feel of the stock shape.
    Other times to have a rifle to shoot, or even hunt with.
    So far ,Poplar has worked well for me.
    It is the Softest Hardwood, but it can be shaped and finished to make a nice stock.
    Looks wise, it isn't that great, but when you coat the stock with a coat of Fiberglass Resin, then paint it with Black Wrinkle Paint, they look great.
    This is a Poplar stock , made as a Pattern, then fitted to a cut down Mosin Nagant, that I still shoot to this day.
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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check