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Thread: 35 cal Taper Crimp or...?

  1. #1
    Boolit Master
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    35 cal Taper Crimp or...?

    I have an H&R Handi Rifle chambered in 35 Krag and had a set of custom collet dies made by Lee. Works just fine with J-bullets, but when the case mouth is expanded for cast, the seating collet leaves a gap around the case mouth a bit larger than I would like offering resistance to chambering.

    Ideally I would like a Taper Crimp die to just close the gap up a bit more - don't want a hard crimp. I suppose I could make due with a 358 Win Lee FCD but I don't love the FCD for cast.

    I have done a search for a 35 cal Taper Crimp die and come up with nothing. Looked for one for 35 Whelen and 358 Win to no avail. I suppose a 35 Whelen seating die with the seating plug removed would give a decent roll crimp? Anyone have any ideas?

  2. #2
    Boolit Master
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    Any decent seating die will provide a good roll crimp to your specs, however case neck tension is very important to consistent loads. You need a custom expander that will offer a lot of case neck tension (usually .003" smaller than the bullet).

  3. #3
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    JonB_in_Glencoe's Avatar
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    Maybe I am not understanding what you mean by "seating collet"?
    But, I've had Lee make me a set of custom Dies (Collet Neck sizer die for 257Rx6.5) and they provide a Dead length Seater die, which doesn't do any crimping and won't remove the bell in the case mouth.

    I understand not wanting a crimp, anyway, I had Lee make a collet FCD for my 257Rx6.5 as they can be easily set to just remove the bell or varying levels of crimp.

    I don't know if your 358win FCD will work, since I am assuming your 35 Krag cases are about 1/4" longer than a 358win.

    If you have a pistol FCD in 357 or 38, maybe you could use that, by just touching the Belled area in the carbide ring.

  4. #4
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by JonB_in_Glencoe View Post
    Maybe I am not understanding what you mean by "seating collet"?
    But, I've had Lee make me a set of custom Dies (Collet Neck sizer die for 257Rx6.5) and they provide a Dead length Seater die, which doesn't do any crimping and won't remove the bell in the case mouth.

    I understand not wanting a crimp, anyway, I had Lee make a collet FCD for my 257Rx6.5 as they can be easily set to just remove the bell or varying levels of crimp.

    I don't know if your 358win FCD will work, since I am assuming your 35 Krag cases are about 1/4" longer than a 358win.

    If you have a pistol FCD in 357 or 38, maybe you could use that, by just touching the Belled area in the carbide ring.
    "Seating collet" would be gibberish for dead length seating die

    I found a 35 Whelan seating die on the flea-bay for $12, so I'll see how that works. Thanks for the good advice.

  5. #5
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    JonB_in_Glencoe's Avatar
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    well, the Whelen die may have enough adjustment to work as is...worst case, you may have to remove some metal off the bottom of the die.
    Good Luck.

  6. #6
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    Wayne Smith's Avatar
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    If that doesn't work call Dave Davidson at CH4D. He may have just what you need on his shelf. If not, he'll make it.
    Wayne the Shrink

    There is no 'right' that requires me to work for you or you to work for me!

  7. #7
    Boolit Master
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    Most maker's 35 Remington seating die should work for smoothing the flare all the way to a hard roll crimp depending on your adjustment. You just don't turn the die down too far.

  8. #8
    Boolit Master
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    RPRNY -

    Howdy !

    FWIW:
    You can check your .35Krag loaded neck OD, and see whether a .380Auto die will work ?

    I have used one on my .35 Rem brass, sized to fit my Marlin M-336 XLR. Those cases have necks that are outside neck turned to .010" nominal wall thickness.


    With regards,
    357Mag

  9. #9
    Boolit Master
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    9MM Para taper crimp from Dillon should do fine. The ND dies are bored straight through so your seated cast should have plenty of clearance, I’m thinking.
    The issue will likely be that your press will need to be short-stroked since the case neck will probably be crimped before you get to full stroke. If you’re only “removing the bell”, and are careful, you shouldn’t have any problems.

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