Lyman 450 rebuild

[z28z34man]

I have an old red handle Lyman 450 that I am trying to rebuild that is missing some parts.

Can I get the dimensions of the linkage and what size and length are the 3 linkage bolts

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

the links are about 1.6" tip to tip, and about 1.12" hole center to center.
The pins are about 2"

Attachment 207432

[HH928]

The Lyman 450 "wishbone" handle can be replaced with a new stronger version (similar to the one used on the 4500) for about $39 or so. Call Lyman Customer Service and ask them. They have a special conversion kit.

HH928

[gwpercle]

Just order the complete rebuild / conversion kit or just order the parts you need. Lyman still had 450 parts as of last year. When I realized Lyman still carried parts I ordered everything needed to do a complete rebuild....my 1973 model is still operating just fine but I wanted the parts on hand just in case . Lyman discontinues parts and then they are gone forever .
Gary

[z28z34man]

I finally got a chance to get back to this. I did some trading with Jonb for the links and pins and a spare ram, and just got around to ordering a pressure screw assembly and a few of the other missing parts from Lyman.

The original seal plug looks like it has been staked in. Do I try to remove the old one and install the one I got with the kit or do I leave it in place? Also is there anything to prevent a leak between the seal plug and the pressure screw, or is the tension on the pressure screw when in use enough to hold back a leak there.

[smilin jack]

I'm rebuilding my old Lyman 450. Ordered some of the needed parts, but the seal plug is not available anymore. They told me the 4500 seal plug would not fit.
Guess it's time to contact a friend with a lathe and skills.

My local NAPA auto parts store had O-rings to fit. Mine were crumbling and leaking lube when in use.

We made an aluminum base plate to fit under the sizer casting that sticks out about 6" on the rear side. Plenty big enough for a garage sale clothing iron to rest. It heats the lube nicely and we wired an ON/OFF switch with an indicator light to show at a glance if the "heater" was ON.

The stake marks on the bottom of the seal plug seemed to help hold in the O-ring. The seal plug drove out from the top and popped out very easily. The O-ring seemed to be all that was holding it in place. The stiff lube maybe helped hold it too.