I like brass for the same reason I like black revolvers. I'm just old timey I guess.
I like brass for the same reason I like black revolvers. I'm just old timey I guess.
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Just in case you were not joking around, or if others wanted to know...
"PC" = " Powder Coated", in our casting & reloading world.
[At least that is what "I" automatically think , instead of the silly term "Politically Correct", which is for libtards usage, IMO, since they are the ones who complain when something "they" consider is "Not Politically Correct".... IMO, they are crybabies seeking androgyny between everything, which is ridiculous to me, since there are likely good reason for why we are all different ... and that is as far as I will take the definitions/explanations in this part of the forum.]
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You who do not load nickle cases please send them to me I have shot same ones 30 years no problems.
i use them both. If I'm buying I prefer brass over nickle because they just last longer. Even at pop gun 38 special level loads just working the brass in the sizing die causes splits in a couple firings. With brass cases ive probably averaged 3 times the life.
Collector and shooter of guns and other items that require a tax stamp, Lead and brass scrounger. Never too much brass, lead or components in inventory! Always looking to win beauty contests with my reloads.
Original purpose of nickle plated cartridge cases was to prevent verdigris on rounds stored in leather cartridge loops. Also to visually identify high speed or high pressure rounds, such as .38-44, .38 Super .357 Magnum. In the .38 Super nickle plating improved function of the Colt .38 Super Automatic due to reduced extraction force, lower friction, which was necessary at the time to get the gun to work prior to the days of spiral flute finish reamers and roller burnishing.
If brass is properly stress relieved nickle plated brass will give acceptable reloading life, but much of it today is not and will split. If you use steel dies if the plating flakes off the particles will imbed and scratch brass, no problem as long as you use carbide dies.
I use nickel plated cases for "hot" loads I don't want to put into older guns, and for ammo where I will probably shoot the brass once and it fly and forget.
I prefer and buy plain brass cases, but if I can pick up nickle plated once-fired I take them home and keep separate for special uses.
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Have always used whatever I can get. But as it would happen just got a new set of dies tonight and actually read the booklet in with them rcbs warns that nickel coated casings can scratch dies and to use carbide dies for loading these if die is scratched use 320 grit sand paper in lathe to polish the die. In 40+ years I think this is the first time I actually read one of these booklets.
I like nickel plated cases for carry ammo. They also work fine for practice ammo, a bit easier to find when shooting weapons that have the poor manners to toss cases when they're done with them. I generally lose them or they lose the plating after several loadings but I noticed in .38 spl ammo they seemed to split a bit sooner than unplated cases.
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I'll load nickel strait wall brass happily , but not bottle necked rifle brass . I tried 100 New nickel 243 win brass and tossed them do to sizing being very difficult .
Edward429451 - PC = Powder Coated, it's a new technology. Pretty interesting.
I'll use Nickel Plated, but don't really seek them out any more; Most all of mine were stolen by a family member so I am almost all straight brass now.
I use them in pistols/revolvers. I just check them carefully before reloading.
Something I have noticed lately with a bunch of 38 nickel brass that has been washed with citrus acid and then left sitting a while back , is the primer bottom getting knocked out but the primer wall sticking in the primer hole ( 1-2 per 100 ) this creates a mess . But after the first loading it hasn't happened again .
I don’t discriminate between nickel or brass. I pick them both up at the range and reload them. If I get 10 loading from free brass and only 5 from free nickel, the price is the same. IMHO YMMV.....
rifle brass will most likely need to be trimmed-if nickel lasts that long, it will surely flake off on the neck after trimming. it seems to work harden quicker than just brass
that's my experience
I’ll use nickel plated cases but generally reserve them for cases I don’t expect to get back. I prefer unplated brass.
Sometimes life taps you on the shoulder and reminds you it's a one way street. Jim Morris
Had a mess of 38's or 357's I made a few years back. In 200 rounds or so mixed brass, I had about 12 or so nickle cases mixed in. The wife is a little OCD and it drove her nuts when she grabbed a handful of bullets out of the tub.
Recently, I picked up some once fired .270 Winchester nickel plated cases at the range. Tried to trim their length and they are too hard to trim easily like brass. I trashed them.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |