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Thread: Powder funnel suction ?

  1. #1
    Boolit Bub
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    Powder funnel suction ?

    I've just started trying to load some .45 acp on my Dillon 550B and it acts like there's a major suction between the powder funnel and the case. The cases are brand new Star line, though they've been sitting in a box for 20 years. I haven't loaded in at least that long, but I know this is not normal. I'm having to push the handle extremely hard and when it releases it jolts the press so much the powder measure top falls off and powder flies. Except for activating the powder measure, funneling the powder, and flaring the case, is the diameter of the funnel critical? I polished it when I first cleaned the dies and set up the machine, but I'm wondering if I can take down the diameter a bit, or cut a vent along the side? I know I used this press and those same dies before. In fact all I did to set it up this time was adjust the powder amount and increase the flare for the PC lead bullets. Thanks for any ideas on what is going on, Terry

  2. #2
    Boolit Buddy
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    Sounds like your powder through expander is set too deep, or is damaged and sticking in the case.
    "Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him; better take a closer look at the American Indian" Henry Ford

  3. #3
    Boolit Buddy

    starreloader's Avatar
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    You need to lightly lube either the expander or the inside of the case mouth on those new unfired cases.. You will not have to lube each case, probably every 10 case will get you working.. What is happening with you is common when there is no lube on dry metal to dry metal.. This does not happen with fired cases, the fired residue works as the lube.
    Viet Nam 11/66 to 3/68

  4. #4
    Boolit Master

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    Starline has been about the worst brand of new brass to stick to the expander for me. As said, lightly lube and no more problems. I dump new starline in a zip lock bag and give it a couple of short blasts of hornady one-shot lube. No more sticky brass and sizes easier in carbide, too.

  5. #5
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    New Starline brass galls horribly. Unfortunately it's to clean. I tumble it in NuFinish treated walnut first. And just to be sure I will give it a few shots Dillon case lube in a baggie as well. After the first firing there are no more issues.

  6. #6
    Boolit Buddy
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    Try tumbling your brass, the case polish and media dust create a little bit of lube that will help keep the case from sticking.

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  7. #7
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    yep too clean.
    smear a little boolit lube on the funnel every 4-5 rounds.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by huntnman View Post
    Sounds like your powder through expander is set too deep, or is damaged and sticking in the case.
    Second this

  9. #9
    Boolit Bub
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    I agree that the funnel part seems much longer than needed, in fact without a case in that station, it bottoms out and starts to move the powder drop about a 1/4 inch. Not enough to drop powder, but i wouldn't think it should contact the shell plate at all. The flare is 0.38 from the end of the funnel. I had to adjust more flare into the die to keep the case mouth from shaving lead from the bullet, but the sticking issue didn't change. It's flaring just enough to seat the bullet now. I inspected and polished the tip of the powder funnel, it isn't damaged. Maybe it is as simple as lube, that is something I will try. I can't seem to get pictures uploaded. Thank all for your help, Terry

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by runfiverun View Post
    yep too clean.
    smear a little boolit lube on the funnel every 4-5 rounds.
    Great tip from RFR! I picked this up from him a while back and is so simple that I never thought of it. You have a little lube on your fingers from handling the bullets, so just twirl the outside of the powder funnel between your finger tips every few cycles. The funnel sticks out the bottom of the die where you can get to it. Makes it go from sticking to effortless. Of course, a little spray lube works too, just a little messier.
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  11. #11
    Boolit Bub
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    Guys back when I reloaded a lot, I only loaded jacketed bullets, and now I'm trying the HyTek coated lead ones, so lube is not something I know much about as far as reloading. Back then, I loaded thousands of .44 mag, .45acp, .357mag, and .380acp, and never had a problem with the expanded die sticking. I don't want to open a can of worms, but is that recipe for lanolin and alcohol a viable option, or should I be looking for something else?

  12. #12
    Boolit Grand Master

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    Extra clean, virgin brass is pretty "grabby". As mentioned above, lube the case mouths...

    I use Mink oil Boot Dressing Cream for my case lube. It works, is easy to find and is easy to remove. The lanolin/alcohol mixture works, if you use the 90% alcohol. The alcohol acts like a carrier and evaporates quickly leaving a thin film of lanolin acting as a lubricant...
    My Anchor is holding fast!

  13. #13
    Boolit Bub
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    mdi, I've read different recipes for the lanolin most calling for 99% alcohol,some use acetone, but I've never seen anyone mention denatured alcohol. Do you have an idea why not?

  14. #14
    Boolit Bub
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    I do have two bottles of Aqualube 5000 that mixes with Acetone or Denatured alcohol. It came from the company that makes the HyTek coatings, for use when sizing the coated bullets. I bought these bullets coated and sized, so I haven't even added the alcohol to it yet. Any reason to think it might not lube the cases as well?

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by second chance View Post
    I don't want to open a can of worms, but is that recipe for lanolin and alcohol a viable option, or should I be looking for something else?
    That's exactly what Dillon Case Lube is. For sizing bottleneck cases I use mink oil. But pistol brass is quick and easy to lube w/ the lanolin/alcohol mixture. A few squirts into a ziplock bag is all that's needed to lube a couple hundred cases.

  16. #16
    Boolit Bub
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    Thank you all, I'll give lube a try. I sure don't remember having to man handle this press this hard back in the day, but then, I was twenty or so years younger,

  17. #17
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    If you can find some motor mica powder put a little in a pop bottle cap and just dip a case mouth in it every few rounds. There are neck lube kits that use this with 3 brushes in the base to keep a even coat. I found a cotton bore mop works better than the brushes. This is a dry coating and powder dosnt stick to it. It dosnt deaden powder either.

  18. #18
    Boolit Bub
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    Quote Originally Posted by country gent View Post
    If you can find some motor mica powder put a little in a pop bottle cap and just dip a case mouth in it every few rounds. There are neck lube kits that use this with 3 brushes in the base to keep a even coat. I found a cotton bore mop works better than the brushes. This is a dry coating and powder dosnt stick to it. It dosnt deaden powder either.
    That would help with sizing, expanding, seating, and the taper crimp, although I've located "most" of my issue as the powder funnel/expanding die. I like the dry lube idea, and even though the spray on variety dries, it covers all of the case, not just where needed. Thank you all, Terry

  19. #19
    Boolit Bub
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    I wish I had named this post better, because thinking back, this thing was locking onto the cases when I was making "dummy" rounds without the primer. So "suction", has nothing to do with it! But it got me some fine answers, so I'm in the right company!

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by second chance View Post
    I wish I had named this post better, because thinking back, this thing was locking onto the cases when I was making "dummy" rounds without the primer. So "suction", has nothing to do with it! But it got me some fine answers, so I'm in the right company!
    We can't help you if you won't listen. There is NO suction problem. The problem is that the powder funnel is flaring the case too much. Been there done that accidentally. No lube needed either. Simply reduce the flare and the sticking problem will go away. Starline cases aren't any worse than any other case either. They will all stick when flared too much.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check