single lube groove or two smaller ones?

[Oklahoma Rebel]

double post- read post below. sorry!

[Oklahoma Rebel]

so run five, you think I should have thicker drive bands, at least the back one?even with the full width section in front of the crimp?right now the weight distribution is I guess close to 50/50. I'm pretty sure I allowed for more lube than needed so the rear band could be made a bit longer, it just has to take place of some of the lube groove because of the cartridges neck length and boolit seating depth. in my mind I think that the nose of the boolit is thick enough to keep from slumping much at all, especially not to one side or the other.

[runfiverun]

you only need about .25 grs of lube.
make sure the walls of the groove are cut with at least a 30* angle.
but yeah some more strength at the base would be helpful.

this is what happens when you don't have enough places for the lead to go.
http://artfulbullet.com/index.php?at...2695-jpg.4271/

[Soundguy]

Looks like you have to be logged in to view that link.

[Oklahoma Rebel]

im not trying to be a smart alec, but couldn't that groove have collapsed on impact? or are you seeing something im not....what do you know??!?!?!?!

[340six]

Now evaluate the theory and success of Loverin style boolits, I am!

I have an old Ideal .323 like that I will try when the Masuer is done.

[Oklahoma Rebel]

so if you have limited groove space, in a rifle, is a harder lube a better choice? I figure it would hold on a bit longer then a softer lube. oh and run, I added .02 to the rear band, .01 to the band right before the crimp, and managed to lose only .01 of the grease groove. there was a .02 flat on the bottom of the crimp groove that I didn't like and removed, so that's one less narrow spot to slump. you wont see these corrections on accurate until I get ready to order. so you would have to use your imagination.

[quail4jake]

I like NOE but someone please tell me about accurate molds, thanks!

[runfiverun]

custom cut molds that pour out to what you order.
if you specify the dimensions and the alloy and communicate clearly with Tom [through E-mails] he will make what you want.
he will walk you through the ordering process so you don't order a plus .002 by accident.

he has a few stipulations such as meplat size, and caliber restrictions. [which has stopped me from doing a ton of work with 25 and 7mm calibers]
http://accuratemolds.com/catalog.php?page=2

another one to talk to is Dan at Mountain molds.
use the box above the pay pal thing to navigate more stuff on the site.
http://www.mountainmolds.com/

[Oklahoma Rebel]

I have never been able to get that mountain molds program to work, it doesn't do what I tell it to!! sems to be a common thing between computers and I!! lol

[quail4jake]

custom cut molds that pour out to what you order.
if you specify the dimensions and the alloy and communicate clearly with Tom [through E-mails] he will make what you want.
he will walk you through the ordering process so you don't order a plus .002 by accident.

he has a few stipulations such as meplat size, and caliber restrictions. [which has stopped me from doing a ton of work with 25 and 7mm calibers]
http://accuratemolds.com/catalog.php?page=2

another one to talk to is Dan at Mountain molds.
use the box above the pay pal thing to navigate more stuff on the site.
http://www.mountainmolds.com/

Thanks! I'm anxious to check it out!

[Oklahoma Rebel]

anyone know where to find cast load info for the 9.3X62, I cant find much cast, and reloadersnest site is either down or not loading for me. thanks a lot-Travis

[Oklahoma Rebel]

sorry.... guess that last post was in the wrong place

[Rcmaveric]

Ran a search on loaddata.com for you. Only found two recipes for you about 9.3x62mm in a Husqvarna Mauser referenced in Handloader Issue 155.

[Oklahoma Rebel]

thanks for checking for me.as far as lubes, I have a homemade one that's worked good up to about 1800fpps, i'll just have to see if it continues to work well up to about 2200fps, if not I think I will try carnauba blue, since I don't have a heated lurisizer.

[runfiverun]

run your lube first.
Travis take a look at Brad's thread on the 43-286 at the other site.
his latest post is what the bullet looks like when it is just punched down the barrel.
we have been working that design over and working it again, we had him [Brad] cut different grooves in different places and have been nit picking the gun and stuff apart all summer.

it's a good read for anyone that is interested in how things really work.

[Oklahoma Rebel]

what forum is it in, and you are talking about the art and science of boolit casting right? or are you talking about another site?

[Oklahoma Rebel]

nevermind I found it. you gave faulty instructions!!! it is actually 287 lol

[Oklahoma Rebel]

wow!, now I know the last batch of boolits I made, I heat treated when they didn't need it, so I never saw any compression like that! but that was a rifle, pistols/ revolvers have to accelerate way faster in such a short time, could that be the reason for the greater compression? I don't want my lube groove to collapse like that, should I maybe keep its original length, but make it a bit shallower? right now the design is .368 O.D. and the lube groove is .326, mainly because that's how tom makes them in similar boolits of that caliber. maybe go up to .332 so the groove would be .18 deep instead of .21 deep.? if the guy from lss lubes is around, I forgot his name, I would love to hear his opinion on this, because I know how much lube I need depends on lube quality and type. any input is appreciated guys! thanks-Travis

[Oklahoma Rebel]

disregard that last one, I have a sample noe .368-280 boolit, and I measured it and the shank in the lube groove is .326, just like my original design, and it looks plenty thick to avoid excess slumping, and is already shallow enough as it is. so I am going to keep mine at .326. I think they just look deeper when they are on paper.