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Thread: Hot Glue Trick

  1. #21
    Boolit Grand Master
    bangerjim's Avatar
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    That looks and sounds like the stuff! And you can buy in small quantities, not cases at a time!

    Banger

  2. #22
    Boolit Master




    EMC45's Avatar
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    Had to do the hot glue trick again. The original fell out. I cleaned the top die and acetone wiped it and re-shot it full of glue. Works very well. I will say this though - If I ever get a benchtop metal lathe, top punches are first on the agenda. I even kept my old head bolts from my Toyota for this express reason.
    You can miss fast & you can miss a lot, but only hits count.

  3. #23
    Boolit Master
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    i use a hot glue stick to seal my over shot wads in my brass shells. works better than ELMERS, OR DUCO.

  4. #24
    Boolit Grand Master

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    Quote Originally Posted by EMC45 View Post
    Had to do the hot glue trick again. The original fell out. I cleaned the top die and acetone wiped it and re-shot it full of glue. Works very well. I will say this though - If I ever get a benchtop metal lathe, top punches are first on the agenda. I even kept my old head bolts from my Toyota for this express reason.
    Mine fell out too.....that's why I posted the Epoxy Putty trick. I have one going on 25 years , it will last much longer than regular hot glue and epoxy putty is cheap and easy to find, and you don't need a benchtop metal lath .
    I guess I'm always looking for the cheap and easy way to do things.
    My Bad !
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  5. #25
    Boolit Master

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    I have a lathe and make all of my top punches using epoxy.
    Larry

  6. #26
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    ..............I just use a fast setting 2 part epoxy. The hard part is the Nose Punch Blank.



    The above is a custom nose punch kit I used to sell. I am NO LONGER IN BUSINESS, and will NOT accept any orders. This photo is simply for illustration purposes. You should probably contact Lathesmith on the vendor sponsor's forum for info on generic nose punch blanks. The only really important part is the OD of the stem fit into the ram, and the OD of the body of the punch. The cavity is simply turned generous (Best way to explain it). I liked to use hexagonal stock as if laid down they do NOT roll around.

    I'd reached the point years ago where the nose punch issue became an issue due to the number of group buy moulds being done, and no nose punches were available. In addition none of the Lee moulds had nose punches available as Lee offered only the push through dies which did not use nose punches. I decided to make up my own racks:



    I don't have a photo of the nose punch rack of this design but these made up for my inventory of screw machine reamers are exactly the same. They were indexed via numbers 1, 2, & 3 across the top and then lettered A-O (15 x 3 rows = 45 spots). Each mould box I had a NP location on the end like 2-J, so that nose punch was in column 2, row J. I only made one of this type for nose punches as it was way too labor and time intensive.

    Instead what I ended up with was the one 1/8" x 2" aluminum for the top. I then used 3/4" x 1/16" aluminum channel for the sides, with the top being pop riveted to the channel. The top was laid out and then drilled to accept the tang of the nose punch. I made 3 of'em so had room for 135 nose punches and a cheap folder to hold the 3 sheets of paper with the moulds listed from smallest sizes to the largest with blanks for new additions.

    For making a new nose punch I pick a blank of the correct OD. Next I select an existing NP that will handle a wad of oiled tissue paper, which is stuffed inside and then set into the ram, which is lowered on to the bullet sitting atop the die. It is pressed down into the die enough to ensure it is straight. I wipe some Johnson's paste wax on the nose of the slug with a Q-Tip. Wipe out the cavity of the nose punch with acetone or carb cleaner. Then mix up a batch of 2 part epoxy and put it in the cavity of the NP blank.

    In a couple minutes the epoxy in the NP will begin to set and is no longer tacky to the touch. Insert into the ram and lower the ram to press the NP firmly against the slug. Go nuke yourself a cup of coffee. Unless it's freezing where your lube press is, you can raise the ram and remove the nose punch. I use a razor knife to trim off the excess epoxy in a circular motion ie: cutting from the inside outwards. Time spent, 10 minutes.

    ...............Buckshot
    Last edited by Buckshot; 02-05-2018 at 03:54 AM.
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  7. #27
    Boolit Master




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    But, but, but I really want a lathe...........
    You can miss fast & you can miss a lot, but only hits count.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check