Help! Punch threads stripped!

[LazyTCross]

I have an old star, it was completely shot when I got it. I welded up all the linkage holes and drilled new holes. New pins. New brass bushings to tighten things up. Thing functions like new. So.... I ordered die and a top punch from lathesmith. Got them in the mail and Ran out to the shop! AAAhhhh! Top punch threads are stripped out! I can push the punch up threw the threads. Forgive me for not knowing exact but I think the punch measures about .479 ish. And measured.499 up in my star. Threads were smeared.
I have looked online at helicoil and rivet inserts. Thread in self tapping inserts. Threaded bushings. I think I only get one shot at fixing this thing. I know I won’t be able to get back to 1/2-27. But maybe 1/2-20. Or 3/8-24.
Anybody ever fixed one?

[country gent]

If you have access to a lathe drill it out for a bigger thread and use a bolt to fill the new hole. Drill it deeper if possible. Locktite bolt into new hole. cut off and face square and flush. then redrill and tap for the needed threads. If there isn't room for the bigger threads then you will need to cut of the ram shorter and fit a new end with the needed threads. This can be done in the lathe also and since force is in a single direction holding it together a press together fit on the joint should be fine. There are some hardened insert that are very good out there but they require the hole to be drilled and tapped a size or so bigger to install. As far as helicoils Ive had them unwind and pull out to often to trust them. The replacing the end of the ram may be the way to go as it has several advntages 1) the tend can be made from a tougher material. 2) the end can be fitted "big" and turned and machined to the original rams centerline and dimensions hardly showing. 3) if for some reason it had to be repaired in the future it would only require removing the end and remachining it. 4) if the new end is threaded in then an end got Star punches and one for lymans could be made offering more versatility.

[HATCH]

Plan A
Send it back to Magma and have them replace s119

Plan B
Tap the hole the next size up.
Have lathesmith make custom punches.





Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[LazyTCross]

S119 is doesn’t look like it can be ordered. I called magma and they said send it in and they would weld it up and recut threads. I don’t know how they would be able to weld up inside the entire hole. The guy also said that it would never be as strong.
I believe that if done correctly it could be plenty strong.
I do have a lathe. Not sure how I would chuck up that thing to face and cut in a new hole. That’s why I was thinking of bushings.
I am willing to go to a standard thread so I can build my own punches

[HeavyMetal]

In this case I would Heli coil for 3/8 x 24, not sure how anyone could strip the threads for the punch in a Star but you now have proof that it can be done, LOL!

With that adapted to 3/8x24 you'll have a lot of easy to make top punches but the honest truth is a few flat based punches and nose sizing will pretty much do everything the average loader casts for.

HM

[country gent]

I'm working from memory here and its been awhile since I seen a star sizer.

Disassembled what is the shape of the ram? A lot of times a 4 jaw and indicate it in to center. Really odd shapes may require a vee block bolted to a face plate and indicated in to zero. Or tied to a dead center / faceplate and a steady rest out front. A lot depends on the lathe and tooling you have available.

What they will probably do is fit a larger slug into the ram, weld on face with a good vee and face down flat and true then retap. Its a quick fix that works but depends on the one weld only.

[country gent]

Looked at the parts diagram on Magmas site.
If the top can be removed that will make it easier. Turn a pin that fit the hole on the front bottom snug ( the stripped out hole) open 4 jaw bigger than required chuck pin in tailstock and set part on it. alighn as evenly as possible between the 4 jaws and lightly tighten each jaw to light snug. tighten again to snug indicate in to zero or the best part of the hole. Set up is going to be the worst part of this.
If the pin on the back side is good solid and centered chuck on it. and carefully recut the hole. You might want to fill the slot with a snug fitted blank so it can crush or spring

[LazyTCross]

I got this machine out of the bone pile from formally Mount Baldy Bullet Works. So I am sure it has seen thousands and thousands and thousands of bullets. But like I said I think I have it tightened up.
I will take a look at chucking it up the way you suggested CGent. The challenge may be to get the press apart. Looking at it it looks doable but I know another who was having a bind in his press and had a tough time getting it to come apart.
I am going to make a trip to town on Monday and see what fasten all has to offer. Than make my go ahead plan from there.
Great input all! Much appreciated

[ReloaderFred]

I have one that the punch threads were partially stripped out of. I used some "thread maker" from Loc-Tite, and it works well enough to make it functional. I was considering filling the cavity with epoxy and redrilling it, then tapping the threads into the epoxy, but the thread maker worked well enough that I didn't need to try the epoxy.

Hope this helps.

Fred