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Thread: Husqvarna Remington Rolling Block bbl'd in 45-70

  1. #1
    Boolit Master oscarflytyer's Avatar
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    Husqvarna Remington Rolling Block bbl'd in 45-70

    traded for a Husqvarna Remington Rolling Block bbl'd in 45-70. Think it is the 1867 model, with an 1871 date on the receiver. Have to ask again who the barrel was made by. Heavy round bbl about 1-1 1/8" dia. Nice tang mounted vernier sight and globe front sight (also need to figure the make, as well as replace a screw). Bbl is 24-25" long. Nice feathered piece of light walnut stocks.

    Haven't slugged the bbl and probably won't if it will shoot what I already have cast and loaded. Have the Lee 405 grn RN HB (.460) and also two Ranch Dog molds that should drop .459-.460, one a 300-310 grn and other a 35-360 grn. Haven't cast with them yet.

    Totally new to this aspect of the game. Any insight is appreciated. I am already shooting the 405 HB in my Marlin 1895 w/ a very low end Trapdoor load (Waters Pet Loads/38.5 grn of IMR 3031). Going to start with that one. Maybe up the powder a tad. And load some Trapdoor pressure loads with the 350/360. If either of them shoot well, prob be done with load search and just shoot. Thanx

  2. #2
    Boolit Buddy
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    Probably the barrels that Gun parts sells, made by E.R. Shaw.

  3. #3
    Boolit Master marlinman93's Avatar
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    If your Rolling Block has screws to retain the pins then it's likely the 1867 version. Husqvarna Rolling Blocks are some of the finest metal put in early Rolling Blocks. Many early versions were built at Remington, and they are great, but those later (like your 1871 marked) are built totally by Husqvarna.
    I think the Water's load you posted is a good one, and unless it doesn't shoot well in your gun I see no reason to up it any.

  4. #4
    Boolit Master
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    I havent see actual data for Svedish RB's but the Danish are only rated at 1600bar~23kpsi so not quite Trapdoor levels.
    The early ones are only "quality iron" and not true alloy steel, and the block can break if pushed to hard.

  5. #5
    Boolit Master oscarflytyer's Avatar
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    Not going to push this one. Waters load above, probably similar load with a 350 grn cast. Go from there.

  6. #6
    Boolit Master oscarflytyer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by marlinman93 View Post
    If your Rolling Block has screws to retain the pins then it's likely the 1867 version. Husqvarna Rolling Blocks are some of the finest metal put in early Rolling Blocks. Many early versions were built at Remington, and they are great, but those later (like your 1871 marked) are built totally by Husqvarna.
    I think the Water's load you posted is a good one, and unless it doesn't shoot well in your gun I see no reason to up it any.
    If you are referring to the two "locking" screws (much like Browning does on the A5) on the right side of the receiver, then yes, that is what this one is.

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    Quote Originally Posted by oscarflytyer View Post
    If you are referring to the two "locking" screws (much like Browning does on the A5) on the right side of the receiver, then yes, that is what this one is.
    If the left side is the right side then all is fine.
    If the right side is the right side then it's rare as hens teeth

  8. #8
    Boolit Master marlinman93's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by oscarflytyer View Post
    If you are referring to the two "locking" screws (much like Browning does on the A5) on the right side of the receiver, then yes, that is what this one is.
    Referring to the two screws that hold the block and hammer pins in place. But they are always on the left side, not right side. See pics here:
    http://www.rollingblockparts.com/swede.html

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    Wayne Smith's Avatar
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    "Some of the civilian models have cap screws threaded into the opposite end of the pin (seen from the right side)"

    So screw heads on the right side are possible. Gotta read the entire paragraph.
    Wayne the Shrink

    There is no 'right' that requires me to work for you or you to work for me!

  10. #10
    Boolit Master marlinman93's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wayne Smith View Post
    "Some of the civilian models have cap screws threaded into the opposite end of the pin (seen from the right side)"

    So screw heads on the right side are possible. Gotta read the entire paragraph.
    But a civilian model would not have the markings the OP mentioned in his post.

    Here's another great site for Husqvarna data.

    http://www.gotavapen.se/gota/artikla.../remington.htm

  11. #11
    Boolit Master oscarflytyer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by marlinman93 View Post
    Referring to the two screws that hold the block and hammer pins in place. But they are always on the left side, not right side. See pics here:
    http://www.rollingblockparts.com/swede.html
    YEah! Left side! I need to put a rock in my RIGHT pocket! lol!

  12. #12
    Boolit Master oscarflytyer's Avatar
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    Try these.....


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    This is one that was converted to 8MM and I converted it to 40-65. It is an 1871 Husqvarna originally. It is a fun gun to shoot.

    Bob
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 71' Rolling Block 004.jpg   71' Rolling Block 001.jpg   71' Rolling Block 002.jpg  
    GUNFIRE! The sound of Freedom!

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Boz330 View Post
    This is one that was converted to 8MM and I converted it to 40-65. It is an 1871 Husqvarna originally. It is a fun gun to shoot.

    Bob
    Bob. Really nice looking rifle. Was the conversion a rebore or a rebarrel??

  15. #15
    Boolit Master marlinman93's Avatar
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    Really good looking gun oscarflytyer! I really like that whoever did the work also bent the lower tang and made it a pistol grip stock setup! Just makes it look more deluxe to me! I have no idea what barrel is on it, but can almost guarantee it isn't one of the Numrich .45-70 barrels, as they were all full octagon. If someone turned one down the diameter would be much smaller than your rifle, so I'd bet it's another maker than Numrich.
    That variation of Swede action isn't as popular as those using the original Remington side plate with single screw, as the extra screws detract from the aesthetics of the action. But they are just as strong as the other style #1 actions, and more than adequate for the .45-70 chambering in standard loads.

  16. #16
    Boolit Master oscarflytyer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by marlinman93 View Post
    Really good looking gun oscarflytyer! I really like that whoever did the work also bent the lower tang and made it a pistol grip stock setup! Just makes it look more deluxe to me! I have no idea what barrel is on it, but can almost guarantee it isn't one of the Numrich .45-70 barrels, as they were all full octagon. If someone turned one down the diameter would be much smaller than your rifle, so I'd bet it's another maker than Numrich.
    That variation of Swede action isn't as popular as those using the original Remington side plate with single screw, as the extra screws detract from the aesthetics of the action. But they are just as strong as the other style #1 actions, and more than adequate for the .45-70 chambering in standard loads.
    Boz - you got me beat on the wood. Georgous! I am a sucker for pretty wood!

    MM93 - thanx, and thanx for all the info. My first, and a LOT to learn. Digesting everything I can find. Got it from a guy who builds/shoots/has a BUNCH of them. Been bugging him for a few years for a 45-70, so I could shoot it easily (have another 45-70) and cheaply. All came together at a show last weekend.

    It is not a Numrich bbl. I just can't remember who Luis told me the bbl maker was. Luis did not build this one. Action is very tight. And now that you mention the pistol grip, explains the filled and ground flat holes. I didn't even catch that tang had been bent into pistol grip. As to the screws vs side plate, really matters not to me. I like the variation. Wood is great on it, builder/stock maker did a very good job. Been reading all I could find on it.

    I really don't care to shoot BP, although I may some.. Really want to just cast for it and shoot it - a lot. Smokeless, as I have everything for it, and lazy about clean up. Going to stick with cast and all loads under ~18k. Should do everything I want from it - paper puncher, cheap fun shooting gun, conversation piece, 150 yo rifle and a great deer thumper in my woods! And a big plus is the tang mounted vernier sight. Always wanted on of these to play with! I would really like to shoot it out to 300+ yds!

  17. #17
    Boolit Master marlinman93's Avatar
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    The gun and caliber should be no problem at all to shoot out past 300 yds. once you've got a good load worked up! You'll have a lot of fun with it!

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by oscarflytyer View Post
    Boz - you got me beat on the wood. Georgous! I am a sucker for pretty wood!

    MM93 - thanx, and thanx for all the info. My first, and a LOT to learn. Digesting everything I can find. Got it from a guy who builds/shoots/has a BUNCH of them. Been bugging him for a few years for a 45-70, so I could shoot it easily (have another 45-70) and cheaply. All came together at a show last weekend.

    It is not a Numrich bbl. I just can't remember who Luis told me the bbl maker was. Luis did not build this one. Action is very tight. And now that you mention the pistol grip, explains the filled and ground flat holes. I didn't even catch that tang had been bent into pistol grip. As to the screws vs side plate, really matters not to me. I like the variation. Wood is great on it, builder/stock maker did a very good job. Been reading all I could find on it.

    I really don't care to shoot BP, although I may some.. Really want to just cast for it and shoot it - a lot. Smokeless, as I have everything for it, and lazy about clean up. Going to stick with cast and all loads under ~18k. Should do everything I want from it - paper puncher, cheap fun shooting gun, conversation piece, 150 yo rifle and a great deer thumper in my woods! And a big plus is the tang mounted vernier sight. Always wanted on of these to play with! I would really like to shoot it out to 300+ yds!
    That was not my intent. That wood is curly Maple. I got t from Tree Bone and I wanted fancy Walnut which was pretty expensive and the guy recommended this at the standard Walnut price. To say I was tickled is a vast understatement. I am most proud of fitting that curved checkered steel butt plate. There are many hours in that puppy. I normally don't have that sort of patience.

    Bob
    GUNFIRE! The sound of Freedom!

  19. #19
    Boolit Master oscarflytyer's Avatar
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    Boz - Don't apologize Man!!! I LOVE beautiful wood! You can upstage me in that dept ANY time! LOL!

  20. #20
    Boolit Master oscarflytyer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by marlinman93 View Post
    The gun and caliber should be no problem at all to shoot out past 300 yds. once you've got a good load worked up! You'll have a lot of fun with it!
    I have a place I can go 200 that is public. Another range that will get me to 500. At some point I really want to shoot this one at LR lobbing slow moving bricks!!!

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check