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Thread: Odd question, removing a broken primer bit

  1. #1
    Boolit Grand Master In Remembrance
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    Odd question, removing a broken primer bit

    Of all things, while depriming a .45ACP round the other day, I had the flat face of the primer detach from the cylinder so now I have a hull that's going to be a little hard to use.

    Other than tossing the brass, anyone have a good way to remove those? (I don't think that's ever happened to me in quite a few thousands of deprimings, mainly curious on what people'd do if they really wanted to save that round.)

    It's not like a steering wheel puller will fit :P

  2. #2
    Boolit Master
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    I had that happen last week or so, but I do not remember the caliber. I just tossed the case into the recycling pile. I thought about reaming it with my Lyman case tool, but then I said to myself, "Ya have enough brass that ya won't miss this one.", and into the container it went.

    "If" i was to try it, that Lyman "prep" tool to ream the pocket would likely be the way I would try. But, as I said... I have enough brass to not even waste the time, except maybe as an experiment & to say i tried it once.
    LOL


    G'luck! if ya try, but I would just toss it.
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  3. #3
    Boolit Grand Master In Remembrance
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    Yep. Only reason I thought of it was that I'm rebuilding from scratch, easy solution's to buy 2500 more 45ACP hulls LOL

  4. #4
    Boolit Master

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    I'm sure I know what you talking about but I don't know what a primer bit is.
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  5. #5
    Boolit Grand Master In Remembrance
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    Oh, sorry. I mean part of the primer as in a piece of it. The cylindrical part, not the anvil or the flat (struck) rearmost surface.

  6. #6
    Boolit Master
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    I don't know that anything you can do is worth doing, in order to wait for the next one. But it can happen with some kind of rare and precious brass too. I would get a pair of small round-nose or snipe-nosed pliers - the cheapest, so that they can be filed. Form a sort of tiny nail-head shape on the end of each point, and it will either go under the far edge of the tubular piece of primer, or dig into it. Either should be enough to pull it out.

  7. #7
    Boolit Buddy daboone's Avatar
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    Was this brass tarnished? I've seen this occur with some WWII/Korea vintage M1 Carbine brass. The primers were corrosion "welded" causing this to happen. Those cases were tossrd. With that much corrosion I figure the case isn't safe to reload and the effort require wasn't worth it anyway. From that batch I lost about 100 out of 1800 cases because of corroded primers. FYI no M1 Carbine brass was ever issued by US arsenals with corrosive primers.
    "An ignorant person is one who doesn't know what you have just found out." Will Rogers

  8. #8
    Boolit Master


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    I experienced this depriming some 9 mm brass which I purchased as "wet tumbled". I am watching, expecting that any solution will be satisfaction based rather than value based.
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  9. #9
    Boolit Master
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    I have used the proper sized drill bit to thin the ring than pried it out with a dental tool. The old style RCBS primer pocket reamer would remove the ring with some patience.

  10. #10
    Boolit Master
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    A primer pocket reamer is the way to go but be careful as you get started in the pocket!

    I have removed a broken primer once in awhile just for grins but honestly I'd just chuck the case these days unless it was some super rare case for a really nice European rifle of some type.

    HM

  11. #11
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    This usually happens when the cases have gotten wet at some point. It's especially noticeable with PMC primed cases, with the white primer residue, after they've gotten wet.

    I once lost over a 100 .38 Super brass that had been cleaned in citric acid and left for an unknown period of time. I had purchased the brass from someone, and they had owned it for a couple of years, after buying it from someone else. I've also seen it in PMC brass that has laid out in the weather, and older military brass.

    It happens, and I just recycle the brass.

    Hope this helps.

    Fred
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  12. #12
    Boolit Master
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    This is the tool I mentioned in my post if anyone is not aware of them. They are good tools, IMO.
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	61h9QakwgGL._AC_UL130_.jpg 
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ID:	206298

    The reamers would do the job I bet. They work well with opening primer pockets. IIRC, one fella recently posted about someone using one to open the primer pocket of some cartridges from small to large primer.

    LIke I said though. My boogered cartridge went into the recycle bin. If I was for some reason, to have a need to do more than one, I reckon I would mount the reamer in a drill chuck to speed up the process. I guess it depends on what one thinks is a good idea at the time. Everyone is different. Right?
    2nd Amend./U.S. Const. - "A well regulated Militia, being necessary to the security of a free State, the right of the people to keep and bear Arms, shall not be infringed."

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  13. #13
    Boolit Master
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    Hmm I have that happen every so often with my 45acp cases as well, I've just been tossing them in the recycle bin but maybe I'll try that tool.
    My feedback page if you feel inclined to add:
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  14. #14
    Boolit Master

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    I had the same problem with Korean War era .30 carbine LC brass. Out of 500, I had 70 primers corroded solid in the primer pocket. Guy I purchased them from made good on my loss. I fiddled with them a while trying to remove the primer cup cylinder. Wound up giving them to a guy that was looking for .30 brass.
    Unless it's a rare or hard to find cartridge I'd scrap it & move on.

  15. #15
    Boolit Master
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    I call them ringers when the primer sides are left, I have used some small screwdrivers to pry out the broken primers.

    I know it is not worth the effort but I do it just to see if I can.

  16. #16
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    Might try an easy out to remove the portion that is left. My experience is sometimes primers like Tula go into the primer pocket very hard and removal can result in a piece of primer left in the pocket. My cases have never been wet or moist.

  17. #17
    Boolit Grand Master In Remembrance
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    Yep it's more a "Oh now THAT is ANNOYING" thing, and stubborn me hates tossing otherwise "good" brass in the brass recycle bucket. I will amuse myself with it at some point, it's (IIRC) LC brass, didn't see too much corrosion on there but water could be involved. Mainly was just curious if that mode of failure was more common now (I had a hiatus for a while where I didn't reload for a while, and some things've changed - PID controllers are lots cheaper now, vs. not used at all in lead smelting, was wondering if primer metals had changed to maybe fail that way more often.) Being curious as heck is a mixed blessing but can result in good things when you're reloading, so long as you are cautious and methodical. The VLD reamer might do it; Used to have a fluted cutter that might have done it with the Dremel, but think it's gone.

  18. #18
    Boolit Master

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    If I ever run into that issue again with a large quantity of brass AND realize the problem early on I would try soaking the bases in penetrating oil for a week first.
    Quote Originally Posted by Bmi48219 View Post
    I had the same problem with Korean War era .30 carbine LC brass. Out of 500, I had 70 primers corroded solid in the primer pocket. Guy I purchased them from made good on my loss. I fiddled with them a while trying to remove the primer cup cylinder. Wound up giving them to a guy that was looking for .30 brass.
    Unless it's a rare or hard to find cartridge I'd scrap it & move on.

  19. #19
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    It's caused by corrosion. Either the corner or the primer cup corroded and weakened it or the sides of the cup wall corroded to the primer pocket. Not worth it to mess with them. If you score or in another way ruin the pocket it is very possible you'll get a gas leak. You all know what a gas leak can do especially if it is high pressure. Better safe then sorry, but you may try this:
    Find a fine thread machine screw bottoming tap that is just a little bit larger then the inside diameter of the cup ring left in the primer pocket and tap into it. Then you can either try pulling it out with the tap or better yet punching it out with a decaping rod from inside the case.

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by vzerone View Post
    It's caused by corrosion. Either the corner or the primer cup corroded and weakened it or the sides of the cup wall corroded to the primer pocket. Not worth it to mess with them. If you score or in another way ruin the pocket it is very possible you'll get a gas leak. You all know what a gas leak can do especially if it is high pressure. Better safe then sorry, but you may try this:
    Find a fine thread machine screw bottoming tap that is just a little bit larger then the inside diameter of the cup ring left in the primer pocket and tap into it. Then you can either try pulling it out with the tap or better yet punching it out with a decaping rod from inside the case.
    No, its not all the time caused by corrosion. Like I mentioned mine were never wet and were in a closed container and not exposed to anything.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check