Sharps Load Build Up Question

[rfd]

when all else seemingly fails, work some loads as consistently as possible (weigh the powder, NO thrown charges) and lead sled @ 200 yards (100 yards for a .45-70 is too dang short and not a good test of that round) with careful multiple wipings (no blowing) 'tween firings. that might be the eye opener ya need. if not, yer loads and process are not as consistent as ya think - and/or yer gun isn't happy with what yer feeding it.

[Don McDowell]

What is the diameter of your bullet? Most pedersoli 45-70 will do their better work with a bullet at .460. If you're fired cases measure .465 inside neck diameter, you may be needing a custom bullet mould to throw a bullet at .463 or bigger.
Forget about the volume and sifting powder, go with a straight up 70 gr charge weight of that Goex 2f. 72 gr may prove a bit better.
No matter what you're powder charge, if you're not using a compression die to compress the powder and wad to just let the bullet base seat firmly on it, there's a pretty good chance your smushing the nose when you seat the bullet.
Run a 2 1/2 inch flannel patch on a jag, soaked in pure gum spirits of turpentine thru the bore a couple of times and follow with a dry patch, that will show you in short order whether or not you have a leading problem.

[tangsight]

My Lyman 457125 pretty much follows the rules about bullet diameter. If I cast 30 to 1 stick on wheel weights to tin, the base band measures .458". If I use a 20 to 1 alloy, then the same location measures between .459" and .460". I have an article about beagling that I thought to try. It would be a cheap solution if it works, and even if it doesn't work very well, it would confirm the benefits of a larger diameter bullet.
Thanks for the leading test. I'm going to the range tomorrow; I will do the test then.

[Lumpy grits]

Go to weight for powder measurement only. Start at 68gn +/- .02gn.
Get rid of all but 1, .030 wad.
How are you compressing the powder?
LG

[tangsight]

Using a compression die from MVA.

[Lumpy grits]

Mva?

Lg

[Don McDowell]

Unless you actually have a tool set up to "beagle" the mould that will actually remove material from the outside of the bullet, and not simply lessen the depth of the lube grooves, about all that process will do is end up wrecking a decent mould.
Might be the best bet to find a bpcr bullet casting outfit, that will sell you some .460 bullets, and if those work then order a mould from BACO, or Brooks.
About 15 years ago, Pedersoli's USA rep decided to address the over size chamber problem by coming out with a mould block designed for those rifles that would drop a bullet at .460 or a bit over. You might try google and see what comes up with the Pedersoli Victory mould, possible you might find someone wanting to sell one. Believe there was a version called the Gunn/Trenk bullet as well.

[tangsight]

Yes, I have read the thread (here, in point of fact) about the interesting history of the Pedersoli-Gunn-Trenk bullet mould. I hope I won't need to search for one of them, at least not yet.
Most of the articles I have read about beagling a mould say no damage is done; if it doesn't work for my rifle, I can always go back to the way the mould was. The process involves placing aluminum tape between the mould blocks. It widens the distance between the blocks two or three thousandths, depending on the tape you use, and you cast an oval shaped bullet. Oval shaped, but ballistically sound. Some guys write about putting the oval bullet through a sizer (which is a swaging process, right), and it ends up becoming a round bullet a thousandth or so larger than before the mould was beagled. I am unsure of the process of which you speak. Maybe I need to do more research.

[tangsight]

Lumpy - I stand corrected. My compression die is from Montana Precision Swaging out of Butte. I should know better; Montana is like the Garden of Eden for BPCR, everything seems to originate from there. I should be more careful to specify.

[Don McDowell]

Good luck.