Henry Rifle With Loading Gate?

[Baltimoreed]

I wouldn’t buy one but I’m guessing that they’re as good as any other commercial firearm in the same price range being built in todays world. And if you want an economical lever gun then fine, get one. But my beef is that they’re even remotely considered as a SASS competition rifle by The Wild Bunch. If they were an accurate copy of a Henry [pre 1866 Winchester] rifle they would be fine for SASS but they are not a reproduction of anything, just a modern rendition of a lever gun.

[buckshotshoey]

I like the transfer bar system. Mossberg 464s have them as well (as do new Win 94s). They are a good passive safety feature. Even better to have a passive transfer bar safety and an active sliding tang safety. I've tested my Mossberg 464 with primed brass. Never once has it gone off or even shown impression on the primer.

Please sir describe how you manage to keep the hammer down while unchambering your Henry? All these rifles work by cocking the hammer when the bolt comes back. Perhaps you can get it to eject without cocking fully, but that is probably more hazardous then just letting it cock. And if you have anything the magazine now you are going to have a round elevated and ready to be pushed into the chamber. And the whole process will go on like this unless you first pointed the muzzle at your hand or face and unscrewed the magazine tube. This is why it is nice to have a sliding tang safety. You just shuck all the rounds out with the SAFETY ON THE WHOLE TIME. Point it at the ground to be extra safe. This is also why magazine tube unloading is a contemptible idea.

With a Mossberg to unload safely anywhere apply the safety and lever the rounds out. Even if you were to pull the trigger somehow, and the transfer bar safety failed, you will still have an active safety. And you don't have to point the muzzle up the in air, at your hand, at your face etc. in order to LOAD or UNLOAD. You can have the muzzle pointed safely always and without issue.

Furthermore, when you scope a rifle (and I scope all my rifles pretty much) the hammer sometimes gets in the way. Hammers are slower than a sliding tang safety under the best of circumstances anyway. I keep my 464 chambered, cocked, and locked when I stalk hunt (where I always keep the muzzle pointed in a safe direction). Just like every field shotgunner. There isn't time to be fumbling with hammers. You do know that shotguns have a hammer inside the action right, sometimes two of them, and folks have been relying the sliding tang safety on most of them for a century without worry. How many years have 1911 type pistols been carried cocked and locked without worry?

I can deal with the Henry's safety system (thought I wouldn't mind a sliding tang safety), but I cannot abide by their retrograde loading/unloading system. It's s shame too because they seem well made and have a stronger action than the others. They have a good reputation with accuracy as well.

You seem well versed on the transfer bar so I will add this....

You keep the hammer down while you dump the tube. No way the firing pin can hit the primer with the transfer bar dropped. Then eject the chambered round. As for pulling the tube follower, I can do it with two fingers and NEVER get my hand, or any other part of my body, over the muzzle. Hell, I'll bet you've been unloading tube fed .22's for years. It's not that difficult fella's.

As for the transfer bar, would you suggest having a cross bolt or tang safety on a Ruger Blackhawk? Its just not necessary. Just follow the proper protocol for that particular firearm. You handle the Henry exactly the same as the Blackhawk in that respect.