How I wired a PID to control temperature

[borg]

Anyway to test a SS relay?
Today is the first time I've tried casting in several months, built a PID, plugged it in when I first put it together and the PID did it's thing and seemed to work fine.
Flash forward to today and hooked everything up and set the pot.
When I plugged it in, the power outlet put nothing out, tried a fan and still nothing.
Took the whole thing apart and checked all the wiring and the cont on all the wiring and everything checked out.
Is there any way to check the relay and the pid when plugged in?
I'm not an electrical wizard, and didn't stay in a Holiday Inn.
Thanks

Oh, and no smoke escaped when I first plugged it in

[Mike W1]

From Auber's Q&A

4. Can I test a SSR with a multimeter?
4.1) Q: When there is no input for the SSR, I can still measure a live voltage on output of the SSR.
Does that mean the SSR is defective?
A: Not necessarily. The SSR is a semiconductor device that has a leak current. The leakage is
less than in the 10-30 mA range. Larger capacity SSR has higher leakage than the small capacity
SSR. If you measure the output voltage at an open circuit condition, you will get a live voltage
that is the same as the AC input. (This is the typical case when user tests the output with a voltage
tester).That does not necessarily mean the SSR is burned through. However, if there is a load
(more than 10 Watt, such as a heater) on the output, you should not detect any significant voltage
because it is drained by the load.

4.2) Q: When I measured the resistance of the output of SSR, it changed from mega ohm to 1-20 kilo
ohm range when an input trigger is applied. Should it be zero ohm?
A: No. It should not. This is because almost all AC SSR on the market has a zero voltage crossing
detection circuit. It will not turn on (change resistant to zero) unless it detects an AC voltage that is
changing the flow direction (across zero voltage). The zero voltage detection function is for protecting
inductive loads. Without an AC load, the output resistance will never change to zero. It should be
noted that changing the resistance from mega ohm to kilo ohm does not mean the SSR is good. But
It tells you it has not been burned open and is responding to input.

4.3) Q. How to test an AC SSR?
A. The most reliable way is connect the output with a 40W light bulb. If the light bulb responds to
the input trigger, the SSR is fine.

[HATCH]

check for voltage on the control side of the SSR
it should be between 4 and 30 volts DC
check for voltage on the LINE side of the SSR. this is the wire that goes to the incoming power (the plug)
As stated above, use a standard household lamp and plug into the outlet to test if its switching on.

Most of the SSR that I use have a LED indicator light on the to show when they are activated. Even with the light active, it may still not be switching but it does help on trouble shooting.

[borg]

I have the same PID and SSR listed in the first post, the SSR is not marked with L1, T1, nor A2 or A1. Have 1, 2, 3, 4, so am guessing I don't have it wired correctly.
I have it wired exactly as in post #25 except guessing on the SSR. When plugged in, the led on the SSR doesn't light.

[borg]

On the PID, should there be any reading from crossing over the 7 and 8?
I'm not getting but about .5 mv from them.

[Mike W1]

Guessing here - are you using a Auber SYL-2362A2 PID? If you are you're wired wrong. 6 & 7 on the PID control the SSR. 9 & 10 for the TC. 8 is for an RTD.

Sure you can't find some marking on the SSR so we can figure out how it's supposed to hook up? Kind of need to have something so as to figure out how to wire it.

[borg]

No, The SYL 2352

[Mike W1]

That's the one I use. I'd stick a different drawing in here but haven't a clue how to do that. email me and I'll send it to you that way.

mwil@butler-bremer.com

[borg]

And a BIG THANKS to Mike W1.
Somehow I turned off the output in the menu, with his help, I was able to get things set right.

[Case Stuffer]

That was why I did this in the first place.
I don't remember who, but someone wanted a plugnplay,
And there are those who, through no fault of their own, just don't feel comfortable doing it themselves.
I have a son-in-law that no matter what I try, just can't/won't change his own oil in his car. He's not stupid or anything like that (He's works in medicine), He just isn't mechanically inclined any way. has no clue what a wrench does

Oh and I would only apply that "muzzle loader" thing to a LEE pot, the Lyman and RCBS thermostats work quite well. Better with a PID than without but not much better.

That last statement is very accurate, it would seem to me. I have a RCBS Pro Melt which I purchased in the very early 80's . I added a PID today and checked onboard dial against PID at 650F ,700F and 750 F. They were a perfect match and the only real difference is PID holds temperature within a few degrees and the Dial lets pot drop 25F before power kicks back on.



Added:

I just finished a 1:15 casting session PID set point 700F , temp. ranged from low of 696 F to high of 713 Fs long as I was not adding material back to the pot.

[Case Stuffer]

There are many very good post in this thread however I found a video which helped me understand my MYPIN setting better. It is a very long video but starting at 50min. cleared up a lot of my confusion.

https://youtu.be/PDlfU2_Anps?t=2994


Could a PID pro tell me if the PID learns all of the time while in use or only while in the Auto Program mode. I am still a bit confused about functioning of Hys. and Ctl.


We ,well I could really use a PID setting for Dummies.

[bbogue1]

Post no. 9

shotgun
try this site we buy stuff from them all the time good prices and sounds like you may need a heavy duty relay to control the element. Be sure you check how many amps it pulls and get a relay a little over rated to handle it.
http://web5.automationdirect.com/adc...ds/9_to_25_Amp

ps pid stands for proportinal intergral derivative basically it adjusts the output based on how far off the actual or measured temp is off from the set point. It will learn the temp ups and downs and start trying to compensate for differences quicker. I would suggest you run it for some time then while running push the auto tune button and it will use all the past data it has saved to calculate new settings for dead bands and such.
please post pics when you can and good luck

In post number 9 The website is incorrect, try https://www.automationdirect.com/adc...er=-1#start=20

[beltfed]

Hurrah! I just wired up my components and the PID WORKS
Thanks to those who posted the wiring diagrams.
beltfed/arnie

[Law.man]

In that no ones has asked this before it's probably a dumb question, but. Are you folks just sticking the thermocouple in the top of the pot or building a holder of some sort to keep it off the bottom and away from the sides? Or does it go somewhere else?
Thanks, electronically challenged, Steve.

I carefully took the steel threaded tip off the thermocouple wire, inside there are two wires coupled together with with what looks like a soldered drop of metal. This I attached to a brass cable O ring and fastened under the nut that secures the nozzle on the bottom of the iron pot. I placed the wire into the space between the outer aluminum shell and the iron pot, drilled a hole in the back and dragged it through the housing where the temp control knob used to live. I prefer this setup as there is nothing sticking out out of the pot since I am going to make a lid for it to maintain the temperature better and reduce oxidation.

The PID and SSD relay are installed in an old PC power supply case which I gutted and used the wires to make the electric connections.

Did two of these, one for the Lee pot and the other one for my toaster oven I use for powder coating.

[marcel909]

see this https://www.homebrewersassociation.o...re-controller/

[diddlyv]

I am thinking of building a PID controller also, is it really necessary or should I just focus on trying to keep my lyman thermometer indicating say 640 to 675 degrees

[diddlyv]

Case stuffer I was in A/5/60 Mar 70 till they went home Sep- Oct 70

[indigoer]

Your link is broken. I also may recommend you to check the famaga store. If I'm not mistaken It delivers items worldwide.

[6bg6ga]

There are many very good post in this thread however I found a video which helped me understand my MYPIN setting better. It is a very long video but starting at 50min. cleared up a lot of my confusion.

https://youtu.be/PDlfU2_Anps?t=2994


Could a PID pro tell me if the PID learns all of the time while in use or only while in the Auto Program mode. I am still a bit confused about functioning of Hys. and Ctl.


We ,well I could really use a PID setting for Dummies.

Many of us did this years ago before there were detailed instructions on the internet spoon feeding on how to do it. Its elementary really. You simply pick out the PID you want along with the sensor that will accommodate the temp you are wanting. Once that is done for those wanting to control a heating element its the matter of a SS relay and wiring it up. Hint here the instructions on wiring it are in with the PID.

Not trying to irritate anyone but its as simple as if you can read the simple instructions that come with the PID you can wire it and you can control the temperature of a lot of different heating elements and such. My PID on my Ballisti-cast bullet caster also controls when the fan turns on in Fan auto mode a setting that I programed into it.

There is no need for PID setting for Dummies in my opinion.

[747 captain]

What parts can I buy to make one cheaply?