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Thread: How I wired a PID to control temperature

  1. #141
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by ubetcha View Post
    Can I use Dielectrical grease as heat sink grease? I use this quite often on my job as an auto tech on electrical connectors.
    Ignition module grease will work.

  2. #142
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    Quote Originally Posted by ubetcha View Post
    Can I use Dielectrical grease as heat sink grease? I use this quite often on my job as an auto tech on electrical connectors.
    Know anyone who is a computer tech?
    They may have a tube of Artic Silver or similar TIM. (Thermal Interface Material)
    This is the paste used between the processor and heat sink in computers.
    Matt

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  3. #143
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    Thermal grease is primarily used in the electronics and computer industries to assist a heat sink to draw heat away from a semiconductor component such as an integrated circuit or transistor.
    Thermally conductive paste improves the efficiency of a heatsink by filling air gaps that occur when the imperfectly flat and smooth surface of a heat generating component is pressed against the similar surface of a heatsink, air being approximately 8000 times less efficient at conducting heat than, for example, aluminium (a common heatsink material).[15] Surface imperfections and departure from perfect flatness inherently arise from limitations in manufacturing technology and range in size from visible and tactile flaws such as machining marks or casting irregularities to sub-microscopic ones not visible to the naked eye. Thermal conductivity and "conformability" (i.e., the ability of the material to conform to irregular surfaces) are the important characteristics of thermal grease.

  4. #144
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    Quote Originally Posted by 6bg6ga View Post
    There are things to be considered here....

    What is the current draw? What are you running with the PID? How many watts? If the current draw is low and your box is aluminum then there is a possibility of mounting the SSR to the box. If the box isn't aluminum then by all means purchase a heat sink for it. If your running a melting pot then I would say get a heat sink and mount the PID to it and be sure to use heat sink grease. If your running say a heater element for a bullet sizer then you don't need to purchase a heat sink providing the box is aluminum. I can tell you with 100% certainty that a 15A load will need a heat sink and or a fan in order to work.
    The parts were ordered from Auber Instruments and are the part shown in the post by Shotgun Lucky. I do have an old computer that doesn't work anymore ,blue screen and old, that perhaps I can take the fan out of. I could put some air holes in the case and mount the fan it to the side of the case. I will be using this for a Lee 10# and a Lee 4-20 bottom drop pot.
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  5. #145
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    Welcome.
    Mariusz from Polish.


    I present my kettle Lee and PID.

    Several images.


    http://bron.iweb.pl/album_pic.php?pic_id=1648


    http://bron.iweb.pl/album_pic.php?pic_id=1649

    Factory regulator must be removed
    http://bron.iweb.pl/album_pic.php?pic_id=1650

    Price: $ 25 + $ 1 housing


    Max temperature. 800'C
    power supply 240V
    K-type thermocouple - complete


    Melted at over 150 pounds of lead.

    Sorry for my language
    Greetings to all
    Last edited by PiXeL; 10-14-2014 at 01:08 PM.

  6. #146
    Boolit Master el34's Avatar
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    Language is great!
    And welcome to here!
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  7. #147
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    Quote Originally Posted by PiXeL View Post
    Welcome.
    Mariusz from Polish.


    I present my kettle Lee and PID.

    Several images.


    http://bron.iweb.pl/album_pic.php?pic_id=1648


    http://bron.iweb.pl/album_pic.php?pic_id=1649

    Factory regulator must be removed
    http://bron.iweb.pl/album_pic.php?pic_id=1650

    Price: $ 25 + $ 1 housing


    Max temperature. 800'C
    power supply 240V
    K-type thermocouple - complete


    Melted at over 150 pounds of lead.

    Sorry for my language
    Greetings to all
    Odd looking color of lead in the second picture. Is it soft/pure lead?
    I'm the King of my castle---anytime my wife's not around
    Life NRA member

    "A Government big enough to give you everything you want, is big enough to take away everything you have"
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    LIFE, LIBERTY, AND THE PURSIUT OF THOSE WHO TREATEN US

  8. #148
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    Welcome.
    Lead has a color because it heated up to 580 degrees Celsius. Test PiD
    A composition in percent: 95 - lead, iridium 3, 2-other.
    A lead from the year 1930.
    It was founded on the roof of the church. I have about 2000 pounds
    I use it on my Volunieer bullets to .451 PH.
    And colleagues on the ball revolver
    Last edited by PiXeL; 10-16-2014 at 02:12 PM.

  9. #149
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    I was hoping to find a DIY "kit" to build a PID controller for my lead melting pot, and possibly later a lubricator heater that was mentioned in this thread a while back; but failing that, I'm starting to order the components individually. At Auberins web site, I saw two PID controllers that look like they could do the job. One has been discussed in this thread: SYL2352, and I'm sure it will do fine. The other: SYL2362 is called "universal" and I just wondered if it offers any advantages over the 2352? Thanks, Ed
    Last edited by EdS; 10-22-2014 at 12:29 PM.

  10. #150
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    http://jconninv.com has kits as well as assembled units available. I have a SYL2352 and it's a gem. Looks like the other one does what it need to do also. I'd recommend you purchase the little socket panel for your TC for sure as you will want to be able to plug your luber heater in also. And the plugs naturally too! Mines set up that way and it's very handy. That web site is Frozone's and he also carries those plugs and panels as does Aubers. Either place can give you very good support if needed. I just finished another unit using a REX C100 for my feeder pot and it works well but definitely not as "neat" a unit as the 2352. Does the job though at a lot less expense.
    Mike

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  11. #151
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    I've tried twice to order from http://jconninv.com last night from the IPad and today from a desktop, both times I get Failed to connect to mailserver at "localhost" error messages. Anyone else try?

  12. #152
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    Quote Originally Posted by jmar254 View Post
    I've tried twice to order from http://jconninv.com last night from the IPad and today from a desktop, both times I get Failed to connect to mailserver at "localhost" error messages. Anyone else try?
    I tried several times today and had the same problem.
    Mike

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    One is by the sword. The other is by debt.”
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  13. #153
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mike W1 View Post
    I tried several times today and had the same problem.
    I emailed James last night, he responded today that he'd look into the problem. I emailed him what I wanted, he sent an invoice, I paid wham bam than you ma'am, order complete in less than 5 mins. Don't you wish all orders went that smoothly.

    I'll let you know when my DIY PID Controller shows up

    Jim

  14. #154
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    Thanks. The website is back up this morning. I found what I needed. I could not believe how much my Lyman dipper pot temp varied until I recently added a dial thermometer! I'm looking forward to the control the PID will give me. -Ed

  15. #155
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    PIXeL
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  16. #156
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    On Sundays I umuwiony with colleagues at the shooting range.
    Link to photos give the evening (our time)


    Yours sincerely.
    Your website is like a treasure of knowledge.

  17. #157
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    Może piwa dla każdego!
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  18. #158
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    Quote Originally Posted by jmar254 View Post
    I emailed James last night, he responded today that he'd look into the problem. I emailed him what I wanted, he sent an invoice, I paid wham bam than you ma'am, order complete in less than 5 mins. Don't you wish all orders went that smoothly.

    I'll let you know when my DIY PID Controller shows up

    Jim
    DIY PID showed up today, upgraded to the Lee 4-20 & it should be here Monday. Can't wait to put it all together.

  19. #159
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    Hi All: Last fall, after getting some advice here and reading several articles on PID controllers for electric lead pots, I bought "everything" recommended and built my first PID controller (PID). It ran great and I used it happily in several casting sessions before it got too cold to enjoy casting in my unheated garage with the door open for ventilation. So, I shut down for the winter. While shut down, I got to thinking on the design and wiring of my PID and decided that I could build a much simpler one. I decided to use the same MyPin, but to simplify everything else. As a side bonus I thought I could make it smaller and more portable, should that be desired. Today I successfully tested the new, "mini" PID and was again very happy with the results. By the way, while testing my new "mini" I checked frequently for any heat build-up on the solid-state switch since I'd eliminated the finned heat exchanger, and it barely got warm to the touch. The small box is ventilated, so all should remain well as the ambient temperature gets warmer. -Ed

  20. #160
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    Here is a quick easy Pid setup I just did for a member here.
    The enclosure is a wall mount meaning it's meant to be mounted on a wall. It's what I had and it was free





    Basically I just cut a extension cord and used it.
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BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check