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Thread: How I wired a PID to control temperature

  1. #61
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    I have the SYL2352 PID. I understand that the PV is the temp and the SV is the set. I thought there might be a calibration for the PV value. Its working correctly and right now I have the probe just sitting on my sizer plate with a light weight on it to keep it from moving. It might change however when I drill the plate and insert the probe in the hole that I drilled for it.

  2. #62
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    6bg6ga -

    What size plate are you using to mount the Star on? Are you placing the sensor in a hole near the heater? I assume the heater is a 1/4-in cartridge type in a another hole?
    Nice idea by the way.
    Thanks,
    Bill
    Idaho

  3. #63
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    Quote Originally Posted by 6bg6ga View Post
    I have the SYL2352 PID. I understand that the PV is the temp and the SV is the set. I thought there might be a calibration for the PV value. Its working correctly and right now I have the probe just sitting on my sizer plate with a light weight on it to keep it from moving. It might change however when I drill the plate and insert the probe in the hole that I drilled for it.
    You may have a little heatsink grease supplied with the SSR/heat sink, use that in the hole you put the probe in to make a better fit with the TC. It makes for a more consistent reading. If you didn't get any included, visit an electronics store (radio shack has this but they're proud of it, a custom computer store will have some also) and pick up a little heat sink grease ~ $1.

    That model PID has an auto calibrate. In the K mode (and others) you may notice that as it powers up it will show a startup code in the PV display. After that it displays 32 when in Fahrenheit mode, '0' if in Celsius. That is the PID auto setting the tare. It then displays the actual temp read by the probe.

    I decided to show a pix of my setup. you can see the RTD sensor in the back of the star and the Lyman heater pin in the base (the white arrows)
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails StarHeaterControler.jpg  
    Last edited by Frozone; 01-13-2011 at 04:08 PM.

  4. #64
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    The sizer lubricator plate is 1/2" thick. It has the 4" long X 1/4 heater installed in a hole that runs directly under the sizer lube tube. The thermocouple will be mounted in the opposite side of the plate. I will mount it within 1/2 of the heater and it should track very well there.

    I have a lifetime supply of heatsink grease so I'm covered there. I had already considered coating it with grease and I am wondering if several set screws placed ever so neatly wouldn't help apply some pressure to insure good contact between the plate and the thermocouple probe.

  5. #65
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    In general, only the tip (~ 3/16") of the K style probe has any significance. Don't crush it, but a set screw holding it in place wouldn't hurt. I use an interference fit in my set up. The sensor has a micro plug (like a small headphone plug)that disconnects from the controller.

  6. #66
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    The plug is a super idea. I think I have some small 1/8 TRS or mono stuff around here. What are your thoughts on either a XLR connector or 1/4" mono jack for the heater connection? Naturally I would want to impress on people the importance of making all necessary connections before turning it on.


    Just for grins I timed the PID control on a 10deg rise from ambiant and it took 2min 17seconds to go from 55degrees to 65 degrees.

  7. #67
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    Quote Originally Posted by 6bg6ga View Post
    The plug is a super idea. I think I have some small 1/8 TRS or mono stuff around here. What are your thoughts on either a XLR connector or 1/4" mono jack for the heater connection?
    Not on a K type, you need a special plug/socket keep things calibrated.
    Here is the piece you need.

    I can get away with it because of the use of a RTD type TS.
    Last edited by Frozone; 01-14-2011 at 12:56 AM.

  8. #68
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    RTD, resistance temperature detector.
    TC, thermocouple.

    Two different animals.

  9. #69
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lee W View Post
    RTD, resistance temperature detector.
    TC, thermocouple.

    Two different animals.
    Also you will usually find that the RTD is a three wire device (3 wires to connect) and the TC is a two wire device.

    DougF

  10. #70
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    I decided to give this a shot because I love gadgetry like this, my parts came in today and I have a question....on the PID setup from the original post, what size wire is used for jumpers and connections? 12? 14? Thanks

  11. #71
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    An 20 ga wire fits the connections very well. When I had to connect a 16 ga stranded wire ( 110v feed) , I had to split the wire to both sides of the tiny little lug.
    I think that it was a 22 ga wire that I used for most jumpers to the relay and transfrmer on mine.
    The 22 ga wire was for the 24 volt contactor and Xfmr.
    Sent from my PC with a keyboard and camera on it with internet too.
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  12. #72
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    I just finished setting up my PID controller and tested it out. Used components as listed in post #1. Fired up the pot and let my material melt. Stuck the thermocouple in using my rigged up holder and adjusted the set point on the PID (750*). All I can say is it worked great! Temp never went over 751* and never below 749*. Looking forward to casting more with this set up.
    Gunsmoke4570

  13. #73
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    I decided to give this a shot because I love gadgetry like this, my parts came in today and I have a question....on the PID setup from the original post, what size wire is used for jumpers and connections? 12? 14? Thanks

    It doesn't take 12 or 14 ga. You could use 18ga and it would be overkill.

  14. #74
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    Here's my attempt on PID, I added two switches, in the rear is main power and in the front is just outlet switch. I have a 1/8 phono plug for the temp probe and the rest is pretty much the same as everybody elses. Works good. I'm adding a chassis mount IEC power plug (same as PC pwr) in the back so I don't have to carry any cords if I need to use it on lube heater.

    The heat sink is horizontal only because I did not have access to my band saw, it's buried under ton of other stuff.








  15. #75
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    I've been picking up parts to build one of these. The 25 amp. SSR I've got came with a rather large heat sink. Is it really necessary in this application? If so should I also consider ventilating the case? Thanks.
    "Those who would give up essential liberty to purchase a little temporary safety deserve neither liberty nor safety".
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  16. #76
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    Heat kills everything sooner or later. Use a fan or a heat sink for longevity's sake. ... felix
    felix

  17. #77
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    I doubt you need a heat sink
    The lyman universal lube heater is a 20 watt heater.
    The heating element on my 4-20 melter is 700 watt.
    700 watts is just under 6 amps @ 120v

  18. #78
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    Well, I just finished my PID with the bill of materials from the first post and wired it per the instructions. Used an old computer power supply for the enclosure and screwed the SSR down to the bottom with some Arctic Silver that I had left over from the last PC build. Even so, the bottom never got more than a little warm after I went through the auto tune drill. Lots of ventilation in the enclosure though.

  19. #79
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    Quote Originally Posted by GrumpyFinn View Post
    I have a 1/8 phono plug for the temp probe
    I am just wondering if your reading true temperature?
    From what I understand that if you are using a TC then anytime you make a connection there will be variation in temp. Is you PID reading 60 degrees off (give or take?)

    If you are using a RTD then never mind because it doesn't matter.

  20. #80
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    Quote Originally Posted by HATCH View Post
    I am just wondering if your reading true temperature?
    From what I understand that if you are using a TC then anytime you make a connection there will be variation in temp. Is you PID reading 60 degrees off (give or take?)

    If you are using a RTD then never mind because it doesn't matter.

    Not that I have noticed, I had it hard wired first and used a thermometer in the pot to check, then I installed the plug and got same temps. Temp variation stays in +- 1 degree when up to temp.

    We'll see how it works. And yes I'm using K type TC
    Last edited by GrumpyFinn; 03-26-2011 at 09:18 AM.

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