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Thread: 1st attempt at powder coating

  1. #21
    Boolit Bub
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Posts
    32
    Thanks for all the replies. I'll be making a trip to the range next week to try them out. I might have time to load some 9mm's and try less crimp. I'll let you know what happens next week.

  2. #22
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Oct 2016
    Location
    Springdale,AR
    Posts
    72
    ive ran PC 9mm for quite a while now and I go through a lot of ammo shooting competition. ive had zero leading issues in my glock with a factory barrel. I just have it sized 2thou bigger than slugged diameter which is .358 in my case. I run a custom mihec 147gr no lube grove flat base bullet from a group buy a while back but I did the same thing with a lee 6 cavity 150 1r mold designed for a 357. the lee mold worked great with PC and I was able to size it 358 due to the PC build up and not get any leading at all with good accuracy.

  3. #23
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Location
    WV
    Posts
    1,278
    Quote Originally Posted by wksimple View Post
    Good to know.

    Powder coat 9mm's ? I've always had leading with 9's unless I heat treated the bullets and sized large, .357-.358". Tell me more!
    I admit I didn't read all of the posts after this one yet but felt compelled to reply to this.

    Before I started using powder coating I cast all of my 9mms with 15 BHN alloy and sized them like many others do at .358" The combination of size and hardness was the only way to ensure they worked good.

    After I started powder coating I found I could use 12 BHN alloy for everything I cast but I still was sizing the 9mms .358"

    Then my brother and I picked up a couple Ruger compact 9mms and I thought the 102gr Lee would be nice to shoot with these light pistols. The 102gr Lee was the most difficult boolit I ever worked with in 9mm though it worked well in the very small .380

    With the powder coating the 102gr Lee works great at 12 BHN and get this, sized .356"

    So I tried my 125gr truncated cone TL(powder coated of course)at .356" and it runs perfect too.

    Powder coating is just simply awesome.

    Motor

  4. #24
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Location
    WV
    Posts
    1,278
    Quote Originally Posted by Rcmaveric View Post
    I am only reloading for two 9mms at the moment. Just needs enough crimp to ensure the bullet does not move during cycling. There is decent neck tension during bullet seating so i only figured a light crimp was good enough.
    Actually the proper way to "crimp" auto pistol ammo is to remove the mouth flare only.

    You are not applying an actual crimp. The tool you are using is called a "crimp" die only because that's the type of function it uses.

    Most people don't believe it but you can not increase neck tension or create a functional crimp with a taper crimp die. The reason is simple. The brass will always spring back a little. The lead bullet can't so no matter how much"crimp" you apply the brass springs back.

    If you crimp too much like many people do you actually DECREASE neck tension because you crush the boolit within the casing below where the mouth flare was and then the brass sprung back.

    I recently used this "in the casing swedging" to my advantage recently. I loaded some .360gr hallow base mini's in my 500 S&W a little too hot for the hollow base. (They look like huge 38 wadd cutters)

    Since most of the boolit is in the casing neck tension is really strong. When I attempted to pull them I couldn't get them out with either the kinetic puller or pliers.

    So I removed the de-capping rod from my sizing die and ran them into the die just "boolit deep". This swedged the boolits down destroying the neck tension and made pulling them a breeze.

    So remember for straight wall auto pistol all you are doing is removing mouth flare, nothing more. This isn't my personal opinion either. Every decent reloading manual clearly states this as well.

    Motor

  5. #25
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Location
    Wichita, KS
    Posts
    282
    Quote Originally Posted by wksimple View Post
    My questions: besides being cleaner, What can I expect when I shoot these?
    LESS SMOKE! If you shoot indoors, it makes a huge difference.

  6. #26
    Boolit Mold
    Join Date
    Sep 2017
    Location
    FL
    Posts
    7
    Motor's explanation is excellent!!! Great reminder of simple mechanics we may be forgetting about with all the moving parts.

    One other note to add is if we seat heavier boolits for the caliber for straight wall cartridges, the case will have a thicker wall below a certain point, creating additional swaging. For example, 5/16"-ish for 9mm as I read and deeper. This artificial crimp/swage effect creates additional potential pressure to some extent, in addition to the lost volume for combustion.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check