Star dies that I make

[lathesmith]

dd, Cayoot, HR, FN, PM, and others....thanks for the comments, it is nice to let other folks know that when it comes to the Star, they do have more than one choice when it comes to dies. Danny, sorry, I have never actually seen or used a Star that uses O-rings, so I don' t really know what to tell you to look for. Glad your stuff got there OK, it ought to keep you busy for a while.
icm, I got your PM and will send a reply shortly.
lathesmith

[mtgrs737]

Lathesmith, I got a box with a bunch of hardware in it when I back from out of town. I couldnt wait to size some of them. I had some 357s and 30s sitting waiting on these. Do you know what size the Orings are in the Magma? I must have nicked my top ring and now its leaking bad.
Thanks again for the dies!

Stop by your local Ace or True-Value hardware store and have a look in the plumbing department, take you old O-ring with you. I will bet that they have an exsact replacement there. You can use a caliper to measure the thickness of the o-ring and just eyeball the diameter. I have a couple of O-ring assortments that came from Harbor freight but they don't cover all the sizes and thicknesses.

[dragonrider]

I am assuming he means the o'rings on the lube piston. yes??

[ddeaton]

No, the o rings in the die cavity. I am guessing this is only on the new Magmas? These seal the center lube cavity on the OD of the die when it is inserted in the sizer.

[Willbird]

No, the o rings in the die cavity. I am guessing this is only on the new Magmas? These seal the center lube cavity on the OD of the die when it is inserted in the sizer.

Those O rings are a terrible "improvement" in the newer Star's...the dang thing gets rolled out of the groove by the lube in the relieved area of the die when your removing it, then it gets jammed in there.

The solution I think is to cut an o-ring groove in the DIE right up near the flange and not put an o-ring in the groove in the lube sizer. I want to make some lube size dies of my own and I am going to try that.

Bill

[dragonrider]

Didn't know they were doing that. I imagine it is cheaper to produce that way.

[ddeaton]

that is why I nicked mine taking the die out and it got pinched. Magma suggests a light coat of oil on the die when inserting it. I think it is ok, just need to be aware and careful.

[rbwillnj]

Lathesmith, I sent you a PM, I need some of your sizer dies.

[mtgrs737]

Lathesmith is taking a little break with the family, he will be back on in a short time, he asked me to keep a eye out here for folks trying to contact him. Hold on for a short time and he will answer you.

[mtgrs737]

I have a used Star sizer that on some dies will oze lube from around the die, it most likely was worn or damaged at one time. The fix is easy, I wrap two or three turns of the teflon plummers tape around the top of the die and it stops the oze, it cheap, easy, and effective. Teflon tape varies in thickness so you will have to experiment with the number of wraps.

[Willbird]

I have a used Star sizer that on some dies will oze lube from around the die, it most likely was worn or damaged at one time. The fix is easy, I wrap two or three turns of the teflon plummers tape around the top of the die and it stops the oze, it cheap, easy, and effective. Teflon tape varies in thickness so you will have to experiment with the number of wraps.

I did try using mine with NO O-ring and it oozed lube. Using the O-ring allows them a far wider size tolerance and less critical surface finish requirements. it is plan and simple a shortcut to the mfg process. What "grabs" the O-ring is the lube in the recess on the die, so I do not think grease will help there. I have had the most success pulling the die out partway, then snagging the O-ring with a hook shaped dental pick, then pulling it out over the die, then pull the die the rest of the way out. The deal is the O-ring gets pulled out of it's groove by the lube in the recess on the die, and no way can it get back in the groove to let the die come out. I have thought about trying a square O-ring, or gluing the O-ring in the groove with say permetex black silicone.

I'm sure all the folks at Magma when I remove a die have to cool their ears with ice cubes .

Bill

[jsizemore]

Lathesmith, PM sent. Enjoy the family, see you when you get back. Jim

[lathesmith]

Well, we got back from Mexico today; tired but had a good time. It's kind of a tricky situation--do you post on the 'net that you will be gone for a week, or do you try and be a little more low profile? I chose low profile, and want to say "thanks" to those of you who helped me do this. Also, thanks to all you guys who are wanting to get some dies and were patient and understanding, I appreciate it. I will be working extra hard the next week or two to get caught up, if you haven't heard from me yet please send me another note. I'm only human, and it is easy to accidentally overlook a message. Thanks again, I look forward to getting back to the shop!
lathesmith

[Firebricker]

lathesmith, I recieved the dies yesterday they look great not to mention the fast turn around time. Thanks again F.B.

[EDK]

I am using some group buy moulds with BIG LUBE GROOVES, similar to the LYMAN 429667, and having problems getting the grooves filled. If I have all the holes in the die open, I get lube on the nose. (To add to the problem, yesterday I used wheel weight ingots I've been using for awhile and must have gotten some soft ones! so the boolits were .0005 to .001 undersize as cast. It was 70 degrees and I was getting busy and didn't think to check the hardness.)

Any suggestions on a special hole spacing or size. I really like the 44 250 full wadcutter from OLD WEST BULLET MOULDS...it sucks up lube as bad as the LYMAN Cowboy Boolits.

I'd appreciate a PM with your ideas...and address and price for a .431 sizer die for my STAR.

[Jon K]

EDK,

I assume you're using lathesmith's standard 3 groove die, right?

I'm lubing Lyman 427666, RCBS 44-40 200gr, Saeco #420 (all big lube groove) I only use the 2 row center holes(Magma die).
Once you have boolit aligned in the die, you may need to warm up the lube, if it's too hard, or give it an extra pump stroke for more lube.

Jon

[Springfield]

EDK; You are not suppossed to keep all the holes open, just one row of 3. Find the row that aligns with the lube groove when the bullet is at the lowest point and plug all the others with shot.

[EDK]

I'm using MAGMA or STAR dies; White Label 50/50 lube. I broke down and hooked up the heater....that solved the problem for now, but I still need the .431 die....have .430 and .432 for the RANCH DOGS. I like to do minimal sizing.

The lube gets darker when using the heater, but that shouldn't effect anything.

Thanks again for the help. It's a d---- poor day that I don't learn something new on the forums.

[Jon K]

EDK,

lathesmith's prices are right, quick response and turn around time. You can't go wrong.

Jon

[lathesmith]

EDK,
I see there is a little confusion here about using multiple rows of holes for filling one lube groove. A die must be designed for this from the start; just opening up all the rows in a "normal" die made for muliple lube grooves obviously won't work, and just makes a mess.
Cajun Shooter and I came up with a close-spaced row design, just for these oversize lube groove bullets. This design uses two rows spaced about .060 apart with the normal offset; this gets twice the amount of lube for the pressure and heat than a "normal" row of three holes. This allows you to work faster, and just generally seems to fill that large groove better. I suggest you send Cajun Shooter a PM, he can tell you more about how these dies work than I can.
lathesmith