Titan ReloadingADvertise hereStainLess Steel MediaInline Fabrication
Lee PrecisionGraf & SonsRotoMetals2

Results 1 to 19 of 19

Thread: Rem 700 Ejector

  1. #1
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    StL MO
    Posts
    354

    Rem 700 Ejector

    bought my Rem 700 used. its in 35w rebored from 3006. previous user said... "When I got it the extractor was chipped. I had a gunsmith at metro shooting supplies change it out for a brownells heavy duty extractor and change out the ejection spring. Lastly, I installed a drop in adjustable Timney trigger because of the recall."

    i haven't shot it a bunch, but the few (10ish) factory rounds have gone off fine. my cast bullet loads however have many failure to fires. out of 40 rounds I've had 8 that didn't fire the first pull, re-chambered and 4 of those went off, 4 still haven't.

    When re-chambering often the case would be left in the chamber and the ejector wasn't grabbing it. when they didn't fire there would be just a slight dimple on the primer. when a re-chambered round did fire on the second time in 2 instances the primer was backed out like it wasn't sitting on the face of the bolt. that happened twice in a 4 shot string and i recorded 200fps higher on those shots.

    i cant imagine that the chamber was cut so sloppy that its not seating correctly without me noticing something on the fired brass. fired brass looks identicle to a factory round. brass was formed from LC72 3006 brass.

    could the after market ejector be to blame? how to i determine if it is the culprit?
    My other forum, where I'm building a cabin....http://www.small-cabin.com/forum/6_3325_0.html#msg48687

  2. #2
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    StL MO
    Posts
    354
    You know maybe the brass is diff. The reload has already been foreformed. The shoulder/neck junction looks higher on the factory round.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_2694.jpg 
Views:	16 
Size:	36.0 KB 
ID:	205267

    Regardless if they're diff, wouldn't the fire formed round fit the chamber better?
    My other forum, where I'm building a cabin....http://www.small-cabin.com/forum/6_3325_0.html#msg48687

  3. #3
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    The Willamette Valley, in Oregon
    Posts
    336
    Quote Originally Posted by mattd View Post
    [...] often the case would be left in the chamber and the ejector wasn't grabbing it. when they didn't fire there would be just a slight dimple on the primer. when a re-chambered round did fire on the second time in 2 instances the primer was backed out like it wasn't sitting on the face of the bolt. that happened twice in a 4 shot string and i recorded 200fps higher on those shots.
    I have had /exactly/ the two behaviors above happen in my Win M88 .308 when shooting light loads, in cases that had been previously used for those same light loads of mine.

    In my situation, the cases were getting shorter - i.e. the shoulder was getting moved further back w/ subsequent loading cycles.
    The progressively shortening case was slipping forward, actually going beyond the extractor.
    (having a push-feed bolt in my Win M88, very similar to your M700 configuration)
    So the subsequently fired primer was able to move back towards the bolt face, while there wasn't enough chamber pressure to get the entire case head to set back.

    Read the 'Mouse Fart' sticky for more info on this:
    Recipes for "Mouse Fart" Loads in 30-06

    I drilled my primer pockets out with a #29 drill per Larry Gibson's posts in that thread, and the issue went away immediately.
    (I did have to create 8mm false shoulders on that particular batch of .308 brass, to get the headspace back to nominal.)
    Last edited by Kestrel4k; 10-05-2017 at 04:29 PM.

  4. #4
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    StL MO
    Posts
    354
    Hmmmm. Shooting 180g bullet which is light, but I'm pushing it 1725-1850fps. Not exactly mouse fart. But the reload in the pic is shorter then factory. It was fired as factory 3006. And then once at the same 1700+ fps cast bullet load.
    My other forum, where I'm building a cabin....http://www.small-cabin.com/forum/6_3325_0.html#msg48687

  5. #5
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    The Willamette Valley, in Oregon
    Posts
    336
    My .308 Win load was shooting a 110gr FMJ @ 1800 fps - so not that far from where you're at; the Larry Gibson prescription was right on, for my particular situation.

    Have never seen this before, but out of the blue this was happening with my new oddball 'medium' load.

  6. #6
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    The Willamette Valley, in Oregon
    Posts
    336
    Quote Originally Posted by mattd View Post
    [...] brass was formed from LC72 3006 brass.
    Quote Originally Posted by mattd View Post
    [...] But the reload in the pic is shorter then factory. It was fired as factory 3006. And then once at the same 1700+ fps cast bullet load.
    So this makes perfect sense - there could easily be a nominal difference in shoulder location between these two rather different cases: an '06 case (actually USGI M2 which could easily have a wider spec) into a .35Whelen rechamber job.

    Despite what folks may say about the two shoulders possibly being in the location 'on paper', it looks like a simple headspace issue: your brass may not yet be fully fireformed to the .35Whelen chamber.

    -----

    And it looks like your 'medium' load has enough pressure to set back the primer, but not the entire case, as was the situation with my load.

    It's just that my shoulders were setting back from my loading series, while yours may not have started in exactly the right position to begin with ?
    Last edited by Kestrel4k; 10-05-2017 at 04:49 PM. Reason: clarification

  7. #7
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    The Willamette Valley, in Oregon
    Posts
    336
    Quote Originally Posted by mattd View Post
    bought my Rem 700 used. its in 35w rebored from 3006. previous user said... "When I got it the extractor was chipped. I had a gunsmith at metro shooting supplies change it out for a brownells heavy duty extractor and change out the ejection spring. Lastly, I installed a drop in adjustable Timney trigger because of the recall."

    [...]

    When re-chambering often the case would be left in the chamber and the ejector wasn't grabbing it.

    [...]

    could the after market ejector be to blame? how to i determine if it is the culprit?
    I do confess to being a little confused w/ the above; you say the extractor & ejection spring were changed.

    Then you say that the ejector wasn't grabbing it

    Then you mention perhaps blaming the aftermarket ejector, yet your initial statement only stated extractor & ejection spring.

    So after a close reading, I really don't understand your current configuration - am I just being obtuse and this is all the same part ?
    Last edited by Kestrel4k; 10-05-2017 at 04:47 PM.

  8. #8
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    StL MO
    Posts
    354
    Those were the comments in the for sale ad when I bought it. So previous owner had the ejector swapped out.

    the ejector, or isn't it something else that grips the case and the ejector just kicks it out? Whichever it is, cases weren't being removed from the chamber. Had to tap them out with a cleaning rod.

    On top of shoulders not being fully foreformed, I was neck sizing only too.
    My other forum, where I'm building a cabin....http://www.small-cabin.com/forum/6_3325_0.html#msg48687

  9. #9
    Boolit Master



    M-Tecs's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Minnesota
    Posts
    4,543
    Per the pic you are pushing your should back too far or in unformed brass you have two much headspace. If that is the case when fireforming you need to hard seat the bullet in the rifling. Other option is to create a false shoulder to maintain a proper headspace.
    Last edited by M-Tecs; 10-05-2017 at 05:00 PM.

  10. #10
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    StL MO
    Posts
    354
    By neck sizing? Just ran the one on the left thru the sizer

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_2695.jpg 
Views:	18 
Size:	38.1 KB 
ID:	205268
    My other forum, where I'm building a cabin....http://www.small-cabin.com/forum/6_3325_0.html#msg48687

  11. #11
    Boolit Master



    M-Tecs's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Minnesota
    Posts
    4,543
    The pic appears to show the factory shoulder is visibly longer than the two others.

    I highly recommend the RCBS case mikes or the Hornady Lock-N-Load Headspace Comparator for properly adjusting dies.

  12. #12
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    StL MO
    Posts
    354
    Agreed. Maybe the problem is that 33g of aa2015 isn't enough to fireform.
    My other forum, where I'm building a cabin....http://www.small-cabin.com/forum/6_3325_0.html#msg48687

  13. #13
    Boolit Master



    M-Tecs's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Minnesota
    Posts
    4,543
    No comment on the load but to properly fireform the case needs to be held close to the bolt face. Creating a false shoulder or hard seating the bullet into the rifling are two of the better methods.

  14. #14
    Boolit Master Texas by God's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Location
    Texas
    Posts
    2,824
    By all means back your sizing die off a few turns. Seat your bullets out enough to feel resistance when you close the bolt. Fireform them this way, then set your die to size the neck just short of touching the shoulder.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

  15. #15
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    StL MO
    Posts
    354
    Got all brass FL resized. The cast bullet hand book says the max for a 195g bullet is 19.2g of Unique. I'm thinking I'll load 18g, seat bullet long and crimp it in place so it doesn't push into the case too easy. I'll close a dummy round in the chamber to figure out OAL and go .02 over that before crimping.

    Am I on the right track?
    My other forum, where I'm building a cabin....http://www.small-cabin.com/forum/6_3325_0.html#msg48687

  16. #16
    Boolit Master Texas by God's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Location
    Texas
    Posts
    2,824
    Sounds like it. I determine max oal by using a fired case, pinching the neck enough to grip the bullet, then chamber and remove carefully. Since your cases are sized already, seat the bullet till it chambers with some resistance, then set the die that way. Your crimp idea will help if you have to remove one from the chamber unfired. You should have perfect cases after that; just don't push the shoulder back again when sizing. Good luck.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

  17. #17
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    NC Arkansas
    Posts
    270
    Extractor grabs the rim of case behind the extractor groove (yes, it is a rimless case, but the extractor groove leaves a rim for the extractor to grab) and pulls the case from the chamber. As the case clears the receiver ring, the spring loaded ejector pushes the case out of the action.

  18. #18
    Boolit Master

    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Bozoland Mt.
    Posts
    1,285
    Quote Originally Posted by Texas by God View Post
    By all means back your sizing die off a few turns. Seat your bullets out enough to feel resistance when you close the bolt. Fireform them this way, then set your die to size the neck just short of touching the shoulder.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk
    This is a solution for the same problem when it happened to me. Remington 700 classic 35 Whelen.
    Firing pin strike shoving the case forward, the problem gets worse on successive firings until the firing pin can't reach the primer. Unfortunately my rifle has a long lead, making the bullet set out method a poor solution to the problem.

    Now when making more brass, size the brass in .35 Whelen die, then run a .375 expander ball through the neck. Then with the 35 Whelen die backed out one turn, resize, leaving a bump on the lower portion of the neck. Then load the cartridge full power for fire forming. Closing the bolt is stiff for fireforming. But this makes good cases.

    Remington .270 win cases are my favorites. Once fired .270s are plentiful at my range, and they finish slightly longer than .30-'06. But still slightly short. Trim the cases to cut away any hairline cracks that form in all that stretching. The split rate is much lower if you stretch those necks slowly. Ramming them through the resizing will produce lots of scrap brass.
    To lazy to chase arrows.
    Clodhopper

  19. #19
    Boolit Bub
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Posts
    26
    You may have a headspace issue. It isn't often the extractor becomes damaged. Primers lightly dented? Primers being almost knocked out?This gun needs to be thoroughly checked out.

    - Chamber Casting
    - Headspace
    - Firing Pin Protrusion
    - Firing Pin Channel Dimension

    Take it to a gunsmith.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check