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Thread: Bisley won't cock!

  1. #1
    Boolit Bub
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    Jul 2017
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    Bisley won't cock!

    After shooting more than a hundred rounds through my stainless Bisley, she fails to cock about half the time. Hammer won't even go back half way. Stripped and cleaned the gun, still no dice. Any advice?

  2. #2
    Remove the spring and plunger in the hammer and clean out plunger hole. Sounds like it's bound and not making contact with the bolt (I mean "cylinder latch") which is what unlocks the cylinder. That or the spring may be collapsed.

    Mike

  3. #3
    Boolit Master pietro's Avatar
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    .

    Is your stainless "Bisley" a Ruger ?

    .
    Experience is a wonderful thing - It lets you recognize a mistake, when you make it again.

  4. #4
    Boolit Bub
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    Quote Originally Posted by pietro View Post
    .

    Is your stainless "Bisley" a Ruger ?

    .
    Yes it is

  5. #5
    Boolit Master opos's Avatar
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    Is there a chance you have tried to to do the "poor man's " trigger job on it?..by unhooking one leg of the main spring and by force "smoothing of the hammer and internals? Things can get deformed, hung up or broken by this kind of nonsense...if it's not dead stock (even replacing springs with highly touted after market springs)....put it back to dead stock and see how it works

  6. #6
    Boolit Master

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    The little spring plunger in the cylinder pin may be hanging up. This pushes back the transfer bar and allows it to move up past the firing pin. If it is stuck the transfer bar will hit the bottom of the firing pin and the hammer will only go back about half way. If you point the gun up when cocking the transfer bar will fall towards the rear from gravity and the gun will cock. The other problem that shows up mostly on 44 mags is the cylinder pin catch allowing the pin to move forward enough that the spring plunger does not push the transfer bar back.
    Also as mentioned before the hammer plunger can be sticking and not moving the bolt down. This will keep the cylinder from turning and will only allow the hammer to back about 3/8"
    John Taylor, Taylor Machine, gunsmith

  7. #7
    Boolit Bub
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    45 dragoon, John Taylor... thanks guys, cleaned the 2 detent springs, plungers, and the hole they fit in. Didn't see any dirt or grime but I put it back to gather everything Works GREAT. So your advice worked. Thanks for allowing me to rest easy now. Have a blessed Lords Day. Bruce

  8. #8
    Boolit Master pietro's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by John Taylor View Post
    The little spring plunger in the cylinder pin may be hanging up. This pushes back the transfer bar and allows it to move up past the firing pin. If it is stuck the transfer bar will hit the bottom of the firing pin and the hammer will only go back about half way. If you point the gun up when cocking the transfer bar will fall towards the rear from gravity and the gun will cock. The other problem that shows up mostly on 44 mags is the cylinder pin catch allowing the pin to move forward enough that the spring plunger does not push the transfer bar back.
    Also as mentioned before the hammer plunger can be sticking and not moving the bolt down. This will keep the cylinder from turning and will only allow the hammer to back about 3/8"

    This........................

    There is a little spring loaded pin on the end of the base pin.
    This is to 'push' the transfer away from the firing pin so it doesn't hang up under the firing pin.
    If this 'sticks' then sometimes you won't be able to cock the gun, especially when you hold the gun down to cock it.

    Check to make sure this pin moves freely and has tension on it.
    If not try to lube it/clean it.

    You can easily simulate this by removing the cylinder and leaving the base pin pulled back, then slowly trying to cock with the gun pointed down.
    You'll see the transfer bar 'catch' on the firing pin.
    Point the gun up and the transfer bar will 'fall' back and clear the firing pin. (Something to check)

    I've had this happen if the base pin moves (unlatches) back too. Same problem, except you now have a base pin latch problem.

    BTW, the transfer bar should be 'loose' when the base pin is removed.
    Basically it should 'fall' back when the gun is pointed up and forward if pointed down.
    If not the gun may need to be dis-assembed and cleaned to make the bar move freely.


    .
    Experience is a wonderful thing - It lets you recognize a mistake, when you make it again.

  9. #9
    Boolit Master

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    If it is a Ruger the transfer bar is catching on the firing pin the cylinder rpin is loose or not fully seated. The center of the cylinder pin is another pin and spring to push the transfer bar back as you cock the gun.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check