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Thread: Scope keeps slipping

  1. #1
    Boolit Grand Master Tripplebeards's Avatar
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    Scope keeps slipping

    I had posted earlier the thread " cast boolits ate my scope". Some helpful posters said to lap the rings being my scope shifted and banged against my rings. Well, I lapped the rings, blue loct tighted all the screws and hand torqued them to the point I could not torque (move)the screws any more. I loaded up some j word 250g sst to factory specs...2200fps and after a half dozen shots and sighting it in the scope started shifting. What am I doing wrong? Are the rings junk? They are warne rings mounted on a ruger american 450 bushmaster with a nikon optic. I think its time to try some other rings.

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  2. #2
    Boolit Master

    jcren's Avatar
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    A small dab of green locktite (penetrates assembled components) will crawl under the tightened ring and set it.
    "In God we trust, in all others, check the manual!"

  3. #3
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    DougGuy's Avatar
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    The rings I have great luck with are actually for an airgun.

    http://www.cabelas.com/product/LEAPE...B&gclsrc=aw.ds

    These little adapters work great for picatinny rings to weaver base:

    http://www.cabelas.com/product/LEAPE...B&gclsrc=aw.ds

    A scope and rings that are airgun rated are tougher than most rifle scopes and rings because rifles only recoil in one direction, airguns recoil in two directions and will beat a standard scope to DEATH in short order.. Try these UTG rings I love 'em!
    Got a .22 .30 .32 .357 .38 .40 .41 .44 .45 .480 or .500 S&W cylinder that needs throats honed? 9mm, 10mm/40S&W, 45 ACP pistol barrel that won't "plunk" your handloads? 480 Ruger or 475 Linebaugh cylinder that needs the "step" reamed to 6° 30min chamfer? Click here to send me a PM You can also find me on Facebook Click Here.

  4. #4
    Boolit Grand Master
    Mk42gunner's Avatar
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    I went though a spell about fifteen year ago where it seemed every scope I mounted slipped, didn't matter if it was on a .22 or a .45-70.

    My solution was to clean the inside of the rings and the scope tube with alcohol, then a light dusting with powdered rosin. It works.

    Robert

  5. #5
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    Ross Seyfred once wrote about this and recommended coating the inside of the rings with 3M Liquid Electrical Tape. He cautioned that you may have a very hard time getting the rings off the scope in the futured, but they are never going to slip.
    Last edited by vzerone; 09-30-2017 at 01:22 PM.

  6. #6
    Boolit Grand Master

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    Powdered rosin works well inside the rings for a extra "grip" on the scope. I have also used blue Loctite in a pinch. Another place to look is to make sure the rings arnt bottoming out on the flats before they completely grip the scope. There should be a thin gap between the ring halves when tightened up. At least a few thousandths. This is a bigger problem on rings that have been lapped or remachined. Some of the anodized surfaces are on the slippery side and very hard, some anodizings can reach 70 Rockwell.

    I normally lap the rings into alighnment on the bases. Clamp down tight on a appropriate bar and check ring clearance. Then disassemble and clean with alchlol. lightly coat with rosin or Loctite ( Loctite I apply a thin coat in both rings with a q-tip) then assemble the scope and rings. Let cure if using the Loctite. On heavy recoiling rifles use a coarse compound for a rougher surface to allow rosin, loctite some extra grip. Like a good glue joint the rosin locktite needs some grip to the materials. to smooth and it isn't as effective. Having the lapp lines run more parallel to the faces of the rings is also helpful as running parallel to the scope still allows for sliding.

    Warne rings have worked for me in the past so I don't think they are the issue here completely. I have seen them used on some precision rifles over the years. Check everything over good. oil or ink the scope tube and check the mating to the rings look for oil in the rings and bare spots. Clean well with alcohol or acetone several times and use the rosin or blue locktite red or green may be more than you want to deal with if taking apart. assemble and let cure overnight. Check the seats for the ring screws heads also if they don't bear even then the screws may loosen slightly under recoil also.

    If these rings use the mount to set the bottom part and screws for the top check the bases to be sure they are right. a slightly wide base mount on these rings can hold the bottom open farther not allowing for a good 100% grip on the scope.

  7. #7
    Boolit Grand Master Tripplebeards's Avatar
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    Where do I get rosin from? I cleaned everything with ru


    Where do I get rosin? I cleaned everything with carb cleaner and then loct tighted blue. More locktight than I've ever used in the past and let dry for about 4-5 days...still didn't work. I have a feeling its the rings bottoming out before it clamps my optic firmly. I have 3 of the same scopes mounted to utra mags with leupold rings and they don't move.

  8. #8
    Boolit Grand Master Tripplebeards's Avatar
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    Where do I get rosin from? I cleaned all the surfaces before loctighting it. I think the rings are bottoming out before getting a firm grip on my scope.

  9. #9
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    Rick Hodges's Avatar
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    Try a musical instrument store for rosin......but nothing will help if your rings are bottoming out. Warne makes very good rings and I have never had a problem with them.

  10. #10
    Boolit Master buckshotshoey's Avatar
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    I had a similar issue with rings once. I used paper thin brass shims under the scope in the lower rings. .002 was enough to get the job done. And you couldnt tell they were there. Never moved after that.

  11. #11
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    Mount the scope to where the W&E boss is against the back side of the front ring. If the eye relief is wrong for you then try one of the above methods. Electric tape makes great shim stock for this. Don't be afraid of the inexpensive UTG rings mentioned- they held up to a .450 Marlin 405gr @ 2000 fps for me!

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

  12. #12
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    Persistent scope slippage indicates mechanical issues. Too large rings, oval rings are a possibility.

    Another is a base problem. Loose, rocking or crooked bases can be a cause.

    -HF
    I give loading advice based on my actual results in factory rifles with standard chambers, twist rates and basic accurizing.
    My goals for using cast boolits are lots of good, cheap, and reasonably accurate shooting, while avoiding overly tedious loading processes.
    The BHN Deformation Formula, and why I don't use it.
    How to find and fix sizing die eccentricity problems.
    Do you trust your casting thermometer?
    A few musings.

  13. #13
    Boolit Master
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    I had a problem child like this once. I used a couple of strips of super fine polishing sand paper, problem solved! Btw, came from the auto parts store used to sand primer. Works great for knocking down a high gloss finish to!

  14. #14
    Boolit Master
    DerekP Houston's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tripplebeards View Post
    Where do I get rosin from? I cleaned all the surfaces before loctighting it. I think the rings are bottoming out before getting a firm grip on my scope.
    I ordered a jar from brownells and have more than I will use up in this life time. Luckily I keep finding new uses for it.
    My feedback page if you feel inclined to add:
    http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...raight-Shooter

    Thanks Yall!

  15. #15
    Boolit Master Hannibal's Avatar
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    If you have a set of feeler gauges, you can see if the rings have any gap remaining if you check from the sides where the screws are.

    You can also get Plastigauge from Napa or other auto parts stores and see if there is clearence left after ring/scope assembly. Just put a 1" piece along the bottom of the ring bases, set the scope in, and lay another 1" piece down before putting the ring 'cap' on. Torque the screws, pull the ring 'caps' off, and if the plastigauge is not squashed to oblivion, your rings are oversized/scope tube is undersized.

  16. #16
    Boolit Grand Master Tripplebeards's Avatar
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    I have mounted dozens apon dozens and dozens of optics over the years and this is the first one to slip. After lapping, and loct liting for the 2nd time with a different optic and it still moves their going in the trash. I ordered a set of medium Leupold prw rings to replace them. I've never been a fan of the side clamping warne rings but wanted to try them. I have some on a couple of my 44 mag rifles and they are fine but this set is going away.
    Last edited by Tripplebeards; 09-30-2017 at 05:42 PM.

  17. #17
    Boolit Master


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    Electrical tape
    “Let us endeavor so to live that when we come to die even the undertaker will be sorry.”
    ― Mark Twain
    W8SOB

  18. #18
    Boolit Master buckshotshoey's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hannibal View Post
    If you have a set of feeler gauges, you can see if the rings have any gap remaining if you check from the sides where the screws are.

    You can also get Plastigauge from Napa or other auto parts stores and see if there is clearence left after ring/scope assembly. Just put a 1" piece along the bottom of the ring bases, set the scope in, and lay another 1" piece down before putting the ring 'cap' on. Torque the screws, pull the ring 'caps' off, and if the plastigauge is not squashed to oblivion, your rings are oversized/scope tube is undersized.
    The plastigauge.... now thats an idea. I've used it on crankshaft bearings, but never thought of it for that application. Good ..... no.......great idea! It would give an exact measurement if there is a gap somewhere.

  19. #19
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    M-Tecs's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tripplebeards View Post
    After lapping, and loct liting for the 2nd time with a different optic and it still moves their going in the trash.
    I would be interested in them if they don't work for you. If you clean with alcohol and put a drop of Loctite 680 on the ring the scope will never move.

  20. #20
    Boolit Master MyFlatline's Avatar
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    Rosin is common at bowling alleys also. I use it when removing barrels.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check