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Thread: Has anyone bored the Yildiz .410 for a barrel stub?

  1. #41
    Boolit Buddy



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    Texas by God, you Sir should get ya one. Especially considering you have the skills to put one together. I took the easy way out, I paid someone. I really like the rear sight too. Been real easy to sight in. My"smith" set it up correctly. Minimum effort required to hit Bunnies. Randy.

  2. #42
    Boolit Buddy Jedman's Avatar
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    Steve urquell, I took some measurements on some 38 special brass to see how much of the cartridge head is solid brass and the average is approx. .170 so if you extractor cut is no deeper, ( I doubt it ) you should be safe to leave it as is and you wount have a unsupported cartridge.

    Jedman

  3. #43
    Quote Originally Posted by Jedman View Post
    Steve urquell, I took some measurements on some 38 special brass to see how much of the cartridge head is solid brass and the average is approx. .170 so if you extractor cut is no deeper, ( I doubt it ) you should be safe to leave it as is and you wount have a unsupported cartridge.

    Jedman
    Jedman I was talking about the factory .410 extractor. Since it's not attached to the barrel it will be gone when the liner is glued in. I was asking if the liner needs the support of the factory extractor. Its pretty big on the Hatfield taking a big chunk of the chamber away when its out.
    Dan Wesson 744V .44mag, S&W Mod 19-4 .357 , Stevens 200 .223

  4. #44
    Boolit Buddy Jedman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by steve urquell View Post
    Jedman I was talking about the factory .410 extractor. Since it's not attached to the barrel it will be gone when the liner is glued in. I was asking if the liner needs the support of the factory extractor. Its pretty big on the Hatfield taking a big chunk of the chamber away when its out.
    You will be fine, Jedman

  5. #45
    Boolit Grand Master Texas by God's Avatar
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    I'm thinking that unless you leave a rim lip on your liner, the extractor can just stay there and be ignored. A breech end pic of your Hatfield will help us see what you're talking about. On the 9mm I did, the 12 ga. ejector happily clicks back and forth, doing nothing.

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  6. #46
    Quote Originally Posted by Texas by God View Post
    I'm thinking that unless you leave a rim lip on your liner, the extractor can just stay there and be ignored. A breech end pic of your Hatfield will help us see what you're talking about. On the 9mm I did, the 12 ga. ejector happily clicks back and forth, doing nothing.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk
    Here it is. The extractor spans the whole bottom width of the monoblock and goes into the chamber 1/2". If I wanted to keep it I'd have to wire it to the barrel when boring it or weld it.
    Dan Wesson 744V .44mag, S&W Mod 19-4 .357 , Stevens 200 .223

  7. #47
    Boolit Grand Master Texas by God's Avatar
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    If you're boring out the host barrel to the liner od you can remove the extractor entirely because the liner is strong enough to hold the pressure.
    I had assumed incorrectly that you were going to turn the liner down to fit inside the host barrel.
    You would have to anneal the extractor before you tack it and bore it.

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  8. #48
    Quote Originally Posted by Texas by God View Post
    If you're boring out the host barrel to the liner od you can remove the extractor entirely because the liner is strong enough to hold the pressure.
    I had assumed incorrectly that you were going to turn the liner down to fit inside the host barrel.
    You would have to anneal the extractor before you tack it and bore it.

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    I figured as much but figured I'd rather ask than screw this up. Plan is to bore the .410 as far as possible to 9/16" then turn the liner down to allow ~.002 fit for loctite. The liner is ~.566 at the chamber so the liner will only need minimal turning to match. What epoxy/loctite did you use for your 44-40?
    Dan Wesson 744V .44mag, S&W Mod 19-4 .357 , Stevens 200 .223

  9. #49
    Boolit Grand Master Texas by God's Avatar
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    I used JB Weld. Jedman told me I didn't need much and he was right..... I had to pull it back out and remove some to get it to seat at the chamber shoulder

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  10. #50
    Quote Originally Posted by Texas by God View Post
    I used JB Weld. Jedman told me I didn't need much and he was right..... I had to pull it back out and remove some to get it to seat at the chamber shoulder

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    While i'm picking your brain. How did you set headspace and how did you position your rifle while the epoxy was drying?
    thanks for the help BTW. i really appreciate it.
    Dan Wesson 744V .44mag, S&W Mod 19-4 .357 , Stevens 200 .223

  11. #51
    Boolit Master
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    I am curious. Has anyone had any problems with the shotgun style firing pin working with brass cases at higher than shotgun pressures?

  12. #52
    Boolit Buddy Jedman's Avatar
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    If you boring the chamber to 9/16 and the chamber should be approx .380 you will have plenty of thickness in your liner for the 38 special.
    To turn the liner for a .002 fit to the bore is really close fit, a couple thousands more is fine for epoxy or loctite.

    I usually use a length of all thread rod either 1/4-20 or 5/16-18 to draw the liner into the barrel but that is with a much larger chamber section than the rest of the bore such as a 20 ga. with the chamber and bore left as is and turning the liner to match. In your barrel I don't know if you are reaming the chamber in the liner before you glue it in the barrel or after and if your barrel or liner are different lengths.
    Usually I have a rim turned on my liner so headspace is set by that but it is not necessary.
    With your barrel / liner you could use a length of threaded rod with a flat washer and nut on both ends if they are the same length.
    I cannot remember if you are doing this without a lathe so thinking of the best way to do this is not clear.

    Jedman

  13. #53
    Boolit Buddy Jedman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BAGTIC View Post
    I am curious. Has anyone had any problems with the shotgun style firing pin working with brass cases at higher than shotgun pressures?
    I have done quite a few stubs and relined rifle barrels on break action shotguns and YES you can have trouble with primer flow into the breech face and trouble opening the action.
    It seems as it mostly depends on how large the hole in the breech face is and how snug fitting the firing pin or striker fits the hole and sometimes if it is a rebounding hammer .
    This is working with cartridges up to the pressure of a 30-30 Win. I have built 3 of them on unmodified guns and they have all worked fine. One was a Brazilian made shotgun sold thru K mart years ago it had a all steel reciever, another was a Russian made Baikal shotgun with a all steel action and a hammer less action, and a Stevens M 9478 that was a 20 ga.
    I have actually had more trouble with cartridges that use small pistol primers than anything else but it is not a given that you would need to bush the firing pin on these guns to make it work.
    A 38 special should be no problem if kept to standard pressure loadings the firing pin must be fit well without excessive clearance when the tip is pushed thru the breech face, if it is a sloppy fit a new pin maybe needed to tighten it up. If you are handloading the ammo used in these converted rifles there are harder primers that take more pressure that can be used also.

    Jedman
    Last edited by Jedman; 07-14-2018 at 07:43 AM. Reason: My memory at fault , I added the correct gun

  14. #54
    Boolit Mold
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    any updates on this build. i to have a yildiz 410 that iam thinking about building a 32 s&w long out of.

  15. #55
    Boolit Buddy Jedman's Avatar
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    Click image for larger version. 

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ID:	233154I finished my Yildiz about 98 % back in the summer. I first chambered the barrel to 32 H&R mag.
    Being cheap I used a non piloted chucking reamer to do the job and somehow the reamer didn't follow the bore and left me a crooked chamber. When I fired it the brass would not extract, Ihad to use a rod to nock it out and the brass had a bulge near the case mouth ?
    That really made me mad at myself for screwing the chamber up. I still don't know why it happened and afterwords I had a couple ideas on what to do to fix it. Being the frame is not up to any hi pressure cartridge I thought I had better make it something that would have to be handloaded and yet keep it as small as possible. What I decided on is a rimmed and shortened version of the 300 black out. I shortened the OAL of the brass by removing .060 off the bottom of the sizing die and form it on 357 mag brass.
    I ended up boring the chamber to a diameter to thread with a 9/16 X 40 thread and stopped at a depth where I thought would have cleaned up the off center bulge and leave the joint where the sleeve joint would end up in the neck portion of the new cartridge.
    I made the 9/16 X 40 sleeve about the same length as a 32 H&R and screwed it in tight with loctite and let it sit. I had bored a center hole thru the sleeve before installing it for the 300 AAC reamer to follow and with a rented reamer reamed the chamber.
    My luck being what it is on this project the " new " chamber has a spot that leaves the fired brass with a small spot that isn't concentric but extracts fine and doesn't seem to affect anything.
    After making the scope base and mounting the scope I did some shooting and found it would shoot cast bullets upto 150 grs. at a lower velocities and remain stable ( no keyholes ) and some jacketed pointed bullets I had in to a inch at 50 yards.
    The trigger on the Yildiz is really not good for a rifle. I intend to work on it and work on load development at a later date. The gun has been sitting for months now as I am letting my anger over the project go away. It is shootable as is but I have decided to work on other projects for a while and get back to it sometime.
    I do have a second Yildiz that I may make a rifle out of at some point but have so many others that need finished first.

    Jedman
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    Last edited by Jedman; 01-01-2019 at 12:12 PM. Reason: Added pic

  16. #56
    Boolit Grand Master Texas by God's Avatar
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    Is it a stub or full length liner? It sure looks good! Sounds like you rescued it.

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  17. #57
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    I've been curious about these, but, no Academy stores anywhere near here so I guess I will pass for now.

  18. #58
    Boolit Buddy Jedman's Avatar
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    It is a full length liner made from the Heym 308 Win. barrel from one of their combination guns.
    I believe it will be a decent shooter once I spend some time developing the loads it likes. It is really light which I was trying to maintain but I really wanted it in a strait walled cartridge.
    I could bush the firing pin and up the loads but leaving it as is keeps you honest because some of the loads I have shot start to crater the primer so you know when to back off.
    I would have reamed it to 32-20 but I know it would not have cleaned up the bad 32 H&R chamber.

    It should be a good smaller game rifle similar to a 32-20 when I get some loads worked out. I believe it will shoot better than 2 MOA with some trigger work and some work with loads.

    Jedman
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    Last edited by Jedman; 01-01-2019 at 12:16 PM. Reason: Added pic of liner barrel

  19. #59
    Boolit Grand Master Texas by God's Avatar
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    Thanks for sharing and keeping the project wheels turning in our heads.

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  20. #60
    Boolit Mold
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    wow that looks great hope you can get it shooting like you want. still looking at all the options befor starting my build in 32 s&w long. if it turns out good would like to build one in 32 h&r mag maybe one in 22 hornet. Thanks for sharing your build with us.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check