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Thread: Has anyone bored the Yildiz .410 for a barrel stub?

  1. #41
    Boolit Man



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    Texas by God, you Sir should get ya one. Especially considering you have the skills to put one together. I took the easy way out, I paid someone. I really like the rear sight too. Been real easy to sight in. My"smith" set it up correctly. Minimum effort required to hit Bunnies. Randy.

  2. #42
    Boolit Master Jedman's Avatar
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    Steve urquell, I took some measurements on some 38 special brass to see how much of the cartridge head is solid brass and the average is approx. .170 so if you extractor cut is no deeper, ( I doubt it ) you should be safe to leave it as is and you wount have a unsupported cartridge.

    Jedman

  3. #43
    Quote Originally Posted by Jedman View Post
    Steve urquell, I took some measurements on some 38 special brass to see how much of the cartridge head is solid brass and the average is approx. .170 so if you extractor cut is no deeper, ( I doubt it ) you should be safe to leave it as is and you wount have a unsupported cartridge.

    Jedman
    Jedman I was talking about the factory .410 extractor. Since it's not attached to the barrel it will be gone when the liner is glued in. I was asking if the liner needs the support of the factory extractor. Its pretty big on the Hatfield taking a big chunk of the chamber away when its out.
    Dan Wesson 744V .44mag, S&W Mod 19-4 .357 , Stevens 200 .223

  4. #44
    Boolit Master Jedman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by steve urquell View Post
    Jedman I was talking about the factory .410 extractor. Since it's not attached to the barrel it will be gone when the liner is glued in. I was asking if the liner needs the support of the factory extractor. Its pretty big on the Hatfield taking a big chunk of the chamber away when its out.
    You will be fine, Jedman

  5. #45
    Boolit Master Texas by God's Avatar
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    I'm thinking that unless you leave a rim lip on your liner, the extractor can just stay there and be ignored. A breech end pic of your Hatfield will help us see what you're talking about. On the 9mm I did, the 12 ga. ejector happily clicks back and forth, doing nothing.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

  6. #46
    Quote Originally Posted by Texas by God View Post
    I'm thinking that unless you leave a rim lip on your liner, the extractor can just stay there and be ignored. A breech end pic of your Hatfield will help us see what you're talking about. On the 9mm I did, the 12 ga. ejector happily clicks back and forth, doing nothing.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk
    Here it is. The extractor spans the whole bottom width of the monoblock and goes into the chamber 1/2". If I wanted to keep it I'd have to wire it to the barrel when boring it or weld it.
    Dan Wesson 744V .44mag, S&W Mod 19-4 .357 , Stevens 200 .223

  7. #47
    Boolit Master Texas by God's Avatar
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    If you're boring out the host barrel to the liner od you can remove the extractor entirely because the liner is strong enough to hold the pressure.
    I had assumed incorrectly that you were going to turn the liner down to fit inside the host barrel.
    You would have to anneal the extractor before you tack it and bore it.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

  8. #48
    Quote Originally Posted by Texas by God View Post
    If you're boring out the host barrel to the liner od you can remove the extractor entirely because the liner is strong enough to hold the pressure.
    I had assumed incorrectly that you were going to turn the liner down to fit inside the host barrel.
    You would have to anneal the extractor before you tack it and bore it.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk
    I figured as much but figured I'd rather ask than screw this up. Plan is to bore the .410 as far as possible to 9/16" then turn the liner down to allow ~.002 fit for loctite. The liner is ~.566 at the chamber so the liner will only need minimal turning to match. What epoxy/loctite did you use for your 44-40?
    Dan Wesson 744V .44mag, S&W Mod 19-4 .357 , Stevens 200 .223

  9. #49
    Boolit Master Texas by God's Avatar
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    I used JB Weld. Jedman told me I didn't need much and he was right..... I had to pull it back out and remove some to get it to seat at the chamber shoulder

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

  10. #50
    Quote Originally Posted by Texas by God View Post
    I used JB Weld. Jedman told me I didn't need much and he was right..... I had to pull it back out and remove some to get it to seat at the chamber shoulder

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk
    While i'm picking your brain. How did you set headspace and how did you position your rifle while the epoxy was drying?
    thanks for the help BTW. i really appreciate it.
    Dan Wesson 744V .44mag, S&W Mod 19-4 .357 , Stevens 200 .223

  11. #51
    Boolit Master
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    I am curious. Has anyone had any problems with the shotgun style firing pin working with brass cases at higher than shotgun pressures?

  12. #52
    Boolit Master Jedman's Avatar
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    If you boring the chamber to 9/16 and the chamber should be approx .380 you will have plenty of thickness in your liner for the 38 special.
    To turn the liner for a .002 fit to the bore is really close fit, a couple thousands more is fine for epoxy or loctite.

    I usually use a length of all thread rod either 1/4-20 or 5/16-18 to draw the liner into the barrel but that is with a much larger chamber section than the rest of the bore such as a 20 ga. with the chamber and bore left as is and turning the liner to match. In your barrel I don't know if you are reaming the chamber in the liner before you glue it in the barrel or after and if your barrel or liner are different lengths.
    Usually I have a rim turned on my liner so headspace is set by that but it is not necessary.
    With your barrel / liner you could use a length of threaded rod with a flat washer and nut on both ends if they are the same length.
    I cannot remember if you are doing this without a lathe so thinking of the best way to do this is not clear.

    Jedman

  13. #53
    Boolit Master Jedman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BAGTIC View Post
    I am curious. Has anyone had any problems with the shotgun style firing pin working with brass cases at higher than shotgun pressures?
    I have done quite a few stubs and relined rifle barrels on break action shotguns and YES you can have trouble with primer flow into the breech face and trouble opening the action.
    It seems as it mostly depends on how large the hole in the breech face is and how snug fitting the firing pin or striker fits the hole and sometimes if it is a rebounding hammer .
    This is working with cartridges up to the pressure of a 30-30 Win. I have built 3 of them on unmodified guns and they have all worked fine. One was a Brazilian made shotgun sold thru K mart years ago it had a all steel reciever, another was a Russian made Baikal shotgun with a all steel action and a hammer less action, and a Stevens M 9478 that was a 20 ga.
    I have actually had more trouble with cartridges that use small pistol primers than anything else but it is not a given that you would need to bush the firing pin on these guns to make it work.
    A 38 special should be no problem if kept to standard pressure loadings the firing pin must be fit well without excessive clearance when the tip is pushed thru the breech face, if it is a sloppy fit a new pin maybe needed to tighten it up. If you are handloading the ammo used in these converted rifles there are harder primers that take more pressure that can be used also.

    Jedman
    Last edited by Jedman; 07-14-2018 at 07:43 AM. Reason: My memory at fault , I added the correct gun

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check