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Thread: Persistent Occassional Failure to Fire

  1. #21
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    Texas by God's Avatar
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    Ok, I'll agree on the handgun brass. And yes with a hand primer tool S&B HANDGUN brass is hard to seat primers. But I've yet to wear out my S&B .38 Special, 9mm, .45acp, .223 & 30-30 brass despite several loadings. It's not my #1 pick but I won't toss it! Tight pockets is the only issue I've seen but that beats split necks and loose pockets or soft rims.
    What's a Kimmel?

  2. #22
    Boolit Grand Master Char-Gar's Avatar
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    My first thought would be to clean the internals of the firearm from any old grease and oil and then relubricate. It the problems persist look for worn mainspring. Last thing to look at is the ammo.
    Disclaimer: The above is not holy writ. It is just my opinion based on my experience and knowledge. Your mileage may vary.

  3. #23
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    Google tells me Kimmel is an RG clone cast and made in the US after GCA 1968. I would see if it is the same DA and SA and strongly suspect a light primer strike.
    [The Montana Gianni] Front sight and squeeze

  4. #24
    Boolit Buddy Driver man's Avatar
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    I would also look at the revolver cylinder-indexing. A worn bolt or cylinder notch can cause erratic alignment with subsequent primer alignment. It doesn't take much to get a miss fire.
    The Bird of Time has but a little way
    To fly-and Lo! the bird is on the wing

  5. #25
    Boolit Master
    HeavyMetal's Avatar
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    reading this thread I can see multiple problems that were most likely being covered up by one another!

    Lets sort through causes and see if something comes up the OP may not be aware of,

    1 WD 40 if you have can of this with in 10 foot of your primer stash your looking for trouble!! Many aroesol sprays can "carry" fumes long after being used, ask me how I know this, LOL! Years ago I removed any such petroleum based material from the loading / component storage area and such problems failed to return. You can also have this problem if you clean your brass with Brasso, the petroleum based residue will stay in the case and haunt you later with mis fires, again ask me how I know, LOL!

    Next what primers are you using? Lee has been scaring people for years with dire warnings about using federal primers in their tools and running the risk of blowing your fingers off. However they are the easiest primer to use and very consistent in size and ignition they are my go to primer for serious target shooting period Winchester follows and is used in most of my general practice stuff.

    Years ago all the gun mags had writers telling you the primer must be seated below the case head and you should be able to feel the primer seat and run your finger over the primer to feel it was actually lower than the case head, who a lot of hooy! I never once found a case that would accept a primer in such a way until I bought a Primer pocket reamer / uniforming tool.

    Holy Moly that made a difference! However it also takes time and effort to run a 1000 case's with a cordless drill and a reamer uniforming tool but you may try this just to satisfy you need to get the primer pockets right, I still use mine but these days only in serious target stuff or during load development.

    Next lets talk about your gun: are you skilled enough to pull it completely down, clean it and put it back together? Some of the smaller "inexpensive" revolver can be a challenge to remove the hammer and other ignition parts out of the gun.

    But since this seems to only be happening to one gun I think I'd start with a complete tear down and clean up and lube that puppy, you may have broken parts and not even know it, seen coil springs still work but "become" Two piece springs when removed from the pistol!

    If this is beyond your skill level take it to a gunsmith but be aware some may not even want to touch it pending on the quality of the pistol in question, had it happen with an old High Standard 22 revolver I got from my Grand parents, it had a hand issue and would not lock up all the time, most smiths simply refused to look at it and suggested I buy a new Ruger 22 auto and hang the old High Standard over the fire place.

    Not having a fire place I finally found a smith that would tackle the job, they are now long out of business, and the gun get a bit of a work out every Thanksgiving when the family get together. He did good work and it still locks up tight and correctly.

    Bottom line here: I think you got a gun problem and I would start by having that looked at right up front. Then do the other stuff I've outlined above, one step at a time until you figure out the issue if the gun checks out!

    HM

  6. #26
    Boolit Man
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    Wow- much to think about but I will take all seriously under advisement. MT Gianni is correct...A Kimmel is a German made gun and asI understand it, a left handed relative of RG. However, this IS an all steel gun and it is seven shot and God help me, I like it!

  7. #27
    Boolit Master
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    looking forward to a post report after a good gunsmith has a look at your Kimmel

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check