I wet tumble with SS pins, then resize and tumble (to remove lube) in lizard bedding with some NuFinish - as shiny as it gets.
I wet tumble with SS pins, then resize and tumble (to remove lube) in lizard bedding with some NuFinish - as shiny as it gets.
First make sure to use a magnet to remove every steel case, even if plated.
As the citric acid, car wax, and dawn loosen the crud from my de-primed brass, the SS pins scrub it off. Every tiny spot inside and out gets this treatment. The extra clean cases will start to oxidize before it dries if no wax was added.
I then size and trim or what-ever is left for it. The last thing I do is a couple hour in cob with NuFnish, which protects it, and removes case lube, and trimmings. The better than new shiny brass will stay that way for many years.
After 50+ years of trying every new method, I am satisfied. It cost a little more but perfection is worth it.
Last edited by mold maker; 09-20-2017 at 09:13 AM.
Information not shared. is wasted.
I too use NuFinish wax with corncob. It looks better than new when done. If really cruddy I will do the coffee can full of scalding water, lemon juice and Dawn dish soap and shake like crazy. Both ways work very well and are low buck.
You can miss fast & you can miss a lot, but only hits count.
corncob and a little nufinish. if it is real splotchy, then a pass thru walnut shell first.
The level of shine on your brass is a personal thing. Its kind of like your car. Some guys wash and wax their car every weekend. Some never do. The main thing is that you don't want dirt and grit in your dies or chamber. Also sizing dirty brass will get that same dirt and grit on the ram of your press causing premature wear. Your soapy water accomplishes this. The LemiShine will add some shine to it. Super shinny brass is a little easier for some to inspect and some of us take great pride in super shiny brass. Like I said, its a personal thing.
The desire for shiny brass IS a personal thing. Good point. I DO take pride in my reloads. I always provide the guns and ammo when I shoot with non-gun owning friends.
I think my process will be what I have been doing PLUS some NuShine or some like stuff. I am at the point where I have all the reloading equipment I need, and no need to buy a new tumbler and SS pins. What I have works and has for 30+ years.
I tend to change out my medium when it doesn't work after about 2-3 hours of tumbling.
How shiny is shiny? We will find out.
Thanks for the info gang.
fish4bugs
Collector and shooter of guns and other items that require a tax stamp, Lead and brass scrounger. Never too much brass, lead or components in inventory! Always looking to win beauty contests with my reloads.
Any polish will work. The automotive line of stuff available at Walmart is just cheaper than the stuff sold to reloaders. NuFinish is a favorite but most any brand, even the store brands will do the job. A splash of mineral spirits helps cut it and helps keeping down the dust. The polish also coats the brass and retards the tarnish that clean unprotected brass will get. It sounds like you have a good plan.
I use Turtle Wax chrome polish with corncob or walnut, gets them clean and shiny, it has a wax in it that keeps them shiny.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |