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Thread: Pedersoli Quigley Rifle .45-110--Is chamber good for PP?

  1. #1
    Boolit Master
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    Pedersoli Quigley Rifle .45-110--Is chamber good for PP?

    I recently picked up a Pedersoli Quigley Rifle in .45-110 that had less than one box through it. I've now got 120 pieces of brass and am starting on that long road of load development. Do any of you know if the chamber/throat of this rifle will work decently for PP boolits, and if so, what diameter should the basic slug be prior to patching? If the answer is negative I have the Lyman 535 grain Postel boolit to work with for target work and the the 457193 405 FP boolit to work up into a hunting load. Thanks for any info. GF

  2. #2
    Banned


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    i don't see why not. pedersolis tend to have a consistent .450 bore and .458 land. if yer loading with real black powder (as you should!) a .443 slick patched with papermill 9# onion will get the fully patched bullet where it should be, slightly under or at bore diameter using 1:20 alloy.

    when i started ppb loads for my .45-70 pedersoli roller, i used new brass and simulated fire forming by using a straight .460 expander from BACO inside a lyman 'm' die. prime, drop fill with 80+ grains of swiss 1-1/2, .025 milk carton wad, easy push fit of the BACO JIM443530E patched slick, run it into a very very slight taper crimp die, good to go. the thing is ---- you want the patched bullet as a bore rider, into the bore, so you want a long ppb and seated 1/8" to 3/16" into the cartridge mouth.

    with a 110 cartridge, yer gonna get in a *LOT* of bp powder with just a wad ... might wanna do grease cookies or dry felt wads for less powder and less shoulder punch.

    PS - randy wright's PPB book is excellent and highly recommended!
    Last edited by rfd; 09-17-2017 at 01:54 PM.

  3. #3
    Boolit Grand Master

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    I would do a chamber cast to see how much throat is there and the leade in the chamber also. Another way is to seat one of the 535 in a case to just touch the rifling and see how much is there. Some do a pound cast with a cases filled with lead and a soft bullet inserted and pounded out with a rod and hammer from the muzzle. I don't usually do this for obvious reasons. Once you find the actual chamber and dimensions its easier to work with.
    My Pedersolis sharps in 45-70 does well with a .442 paper patched bullet wrapped with 2 wraps of Seth Cole ( 55w I believe).
    I will second Randolph S Wrights book Loading and Shooting the Paper Patched Bullet A Beginners Guide. Its a lot of good solid information Laid out in a easy to read and understand format. Not just what to do but the hows and whys also. A very good book
    Most dies arnt set up for the bore riding Paper Patched bullets at .450 dia they may not size down to where you need to be for proper bullet fits. Keep in mind the bore riding PP bullet is .008 under bullets normal dia. A bushing die works good here as bushings can be purchased or made for brass thickness different papers thicknesses. I deally the case is big enough to hand seat the bullet onto the powder wad stack and then be tensioned after its in place. I don't crimp these rounds and only size enough for a very light tension, I can still spin and pull the bullets by hand but just enough to keep them together.
    Wrap you bullets with a flat tailless base ( I leave a small spot of lead showing in the center of the base) I also prefer a cup based bullet for a flatter base. This leaves a nice flat base with no bulges to damage the base under pressure. Some wrap with a damp patch some dry.
    A patching board makes it easier starting out and I still use them. They are simple to make and keep everything lined up the same. A Patching board can be a nice hard wood board 3/4" thick 6" wide and 6"-8" long. Cut it square and a saw cut in 3/8"-1/2" from one edge the length of the board. A flat rail is then glued or screwed to the left edge full length it can be plastic, steel, Stainless Steel Brass or aluminum. this rail needs to be 3/32"- 1/8" above the top surface of the board. Lightly bevel the edges if the saw cut also. On the right side fit a small block of the wood into the top centered over the saw cut. Mine is 3/4" tall 1" wide and 3/4" long. Once this is glued in and dried drill a 1/4" hole thru it centered and parallel to the saw cut. Apiece of 1/4" ready rod 5"-6" long and 3 nuts a wing nut for the back side is nice here. One nut goes on the end of the rod to make a stop plate Ding threads or locktite it in place. one nut is against the boss inside and one outside these allow the stop to be adjusted easily. A slot cut in the front edge 3" or so and 1/2" - 3/4" wide can be cut to hold a supply of patches, this works better if you dry wrap. Give it a nice smooth sanding and finish.
    In use Lay a Patch slightly off edge of board against the rail to square it . Set bullet in the beveled saw cut with nose against the set Stop. Roll protruding edge over bullet and wrap by rolling bullet in saw cut once wrapped to tension pinch pick up and fold base under I do this between thumb and forefinger using about 3 turns and folding a little at a time for nice flat bases. Once everything is set you get a nice small open center every time.

  4. #4
    Boolit Master

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    I have pretty much the same rifle, mine's the Boss. It loves the pp bullets I've been running through it. I will send you a pm with my loads, but using a 535gr .446 slick mold from buffalo arms, 8lb onion skin paper wet wrapped, forgot what my wad stack is but will look it up and pm you. Once cases are loaded the pp bullet is a snug finger press fit in the case, enough were you can pick up the loaded round by the bullet without it falling out.
    It's a snug fit in the bore and with a little humidity you might have to use something to help push it in the last few thousands but it won't hurt the paper.
    Mine always spread the paper leaving the barrel. I'm using 16 lb clip on WW with 2lbs of soft lead and getting very good results. 1-2" at 100 yards. Haven't ran them across a crono yet but should be about 1250-1300 with my 110gr of goex 1F with wad stack and just enough compression to get about a quarter inch of space at case end to seat bullet.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check