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Thread: Kroil and my long lost micrometer

  1. #21
    Boolit Master

    Plate plinker's Avatar
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    I like Kroil it seems to work very well for me.

  2. #22
    Boolit Master rondog's Avatar
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    I want some Kroil, but have never found it for sale anywhere. It is internet-order only? With a hazmat fee?

  3. #23
    Boolit Buddy
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    I couldn't find it local either. Order it from Kano Labs.

    http://www.kanolabs.com/

  4. #24
    Boolit Master Shawlerbrook's Avatar
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    Great stuff ! I bought 2 cans directly from Kano Labs about 10 years ago and am still on the first can. Also got the very interesting newsletter for a while.

  5. #25
    Boolit Buddy benellinut's Avatar
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    Good thread, reminded me it was time, just placed an order another pair of cans. For many years Kano Labs has run a web deals on two King Size spray cans for $14.95 with $5.95 shipping. You have to put in a business name on the form, make it up, doesn't matter if you have a business or not, it just a box that can't be left blank. They have two pages, both the same deal, links below. It's says one per customer, I think that means one two can deal per order, I've ordered about once every year and a half and it always goes through.

    http://www.kanolabs.com/google/

    http://www.kanolabs.com/yahoo/

    it's great stuff, hands down the best penetrating oil I've ever used. I worked as a mechanic for 25 years and I've used just about every penetrating oil, some only sold to shops and some that have come and gone, Kroil has beat them all and it's the only one I'll use now. When I have to work on a rusty part, first thing I'll do is spray it with Kroil then proceed with other work while the oil works, if I can and it's really rusty I'll spray the parts a day or two ahead of time, repeating every 24 hours. You don't need to soak the parts, a little is all that's needed, just enough to coat the parts, if it's running off your wasting it! I've removed some really rusted parts that I was sure were beyond oil an I'd have to heat with a torch but Kroil has done the trick 98% of the time, just incredible stuff. Wish I knew about it when I was still on the line twisting wrenches, it would have saved me time which would have meant more money in my pocket!

    A tip, when these spray cans get down to the last ounce or so they loose enough propellant to spray, when they get to that point I just a tiny awl and prick a punch a hole in the lower lip next to the roll crimp of the bottom lid, then another up higher for a vent hole. I drip drain the oil into a container then I put it in little plastic drip tip bottles to keep on the gun bench and in my range bag.
    Be careful what you wish for!

  6. #26
    Boolit Grand Master tazman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by benellinut View Post
    A tip, when these spray cans get down to the last ounce or so they loose enough propellant to spray, when they get to that point I just a tiny awl and prick a punch a hole in the lower lip next to the roll crimp of the bottom lid, then another up higher for a vent hole. I drip drain the oil into a container then I put it in little plastic drip tip bottles to keep on the gun bench and in my range bag.
    That's a good tip. Thanks for posting.

  7. #27
    Boolit Buddy benellinut's Avatar
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    Thought I'd share, today kroil saved me time and work yet again. My 98 Jeep Cherokee started making noise from the rear, I found one of the big 1/2" u-bolts that holds the rear axle to the rear leaf springs had broke, there are two u-bolts on each side of the axle. Picked up two new u-bolts to replace both on that side, jacked her up and pulled the wheel, taking a look at the remaining u-bolt there was ton's of rust on the original nuts. One look and 25 years of being a mechanic said to me I'll have to cut those off, fastest way to remove them. But for the heck of it I decided to give them a shot of kroil and let it set for a few hours, when I came back later I put my impact gun on the nuts and they both spun right off, WOW! I'm telling you, I wish I had found kroil many years ago while I was twisting wrenches on the line, it would have saved me time and time is money in your pocket when on the line. Kroil it just the best penetrating oil I've ever used. Got an email from UPS, my two can online special order (links above) will be here next Tues. Kroil should pay me for advertising LoL. Seriously, it's great stuff guys, if you haven't tried it your loosing out.
    Be careful what you wish for!

  8. #28
    Boolit Master rondog's Avatar
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    OK, just ordered the two can deal, should last my limited lifetime, my stepsons, and both grandsons!

  9. #29
    Boolit Master Randy C's Avatar
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    I've used it for years Its the last patch I put through my barrel before I store my guns, I get mine at midway.

  10. #30
    Boolit Master



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    Love the smell of Kroil...
    "Freedom is never more than one generation away from extinction. We didn't pass it to our children in the bloodstream. It must be fought for, protected, and handed on for them to do the same......." - Ronald Reagan

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  11. #31
    Boolit Master
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    If I recall, I thought I saw Kroil on the shelf at my local Ace Hardware store. I will have to remember to look again next time I go
    I'm the King of my castle---anytime my wife's not around
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  12. #32
    Boolit Master
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    I have been using Kano products for going on twenty years.

    They are great people and if you can not find it locally, order it from them.

    I think aerokroil penetrates just a bit better than just plain kroil and silikroil penetrates the least of the three.

    I like every version and apply them according to my needs. Silikroil has silicon added and I use it once I get something unstuck.

    Kroil is a liquid non aerosol and is cheaper than aerokroil (aerosol form) so it is my dowsing formulation when needed.

    Typically I am under a time constraint on the farm so I use the aero Kroil first and try the part, I reach for some heat and Kroil and aerokroil works better with heat than any other product I have used except for a thread cutting oil with a high sulphur content. As the penetrant burns off, I work the stuck item, as it further cools I get the part retreated and try it some more. Then I reheat and rework it. You will find that the petroleum burns into the rust and blends with it making it less binding. I repeat until I am successful, give up or destroy the part.

    I tried the touted ATF/acetone mixture and did not see results anywhere near where the Kano products perform.

    As other members have stated, you don’t typically drown a stuck part in penetrating oil and the Kano products are no exception and I don’t get my cans to last like some here have experienced ...... I have employees using my stash and they are not as judicious with it .... after all I write the checks for it, never the less I feel I am getting good value all things considered.

    Three44s
    Last edited by Three44s; 11-19-2017 at 12:18 PM.

  13. #33
    Boolit Grand Master
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    Kroil is one of my go-to products. If I have leading in the barrel, I run a soaking patch of Kroil though the bore and let it set over night. The following morning, I shove a tight patch through the bore and out comes the lead. One or two passes and the bore is clear, the a couple patches of Hoppe's or Ed's Red and a couple more to dry and the barrel is clean. I have a Marlin Cowboy 45-70 that was a a little rough when I first got it and would lead up to the point where accuracy began to go south in 50 or 60 rounds. Kroil made the job of cleaning easy.
    _________________________________________________It's not that I can't spell: it is that I can't type.

  14. #34
    Boolit Grand Master

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    Quote Originally Posted by dragon813gt View Post
    Kroil stinks almost as bad as Ballistol. Just seems most people can take the Kroil smell.
    Clenzoil is another product that "reeks"....it works but I just can't get over the stink !
    Certified Cajun
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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check